Timing belt job question

Jumpkix said:
Yea, he said the same thing about the battery terminals :tongue1:

As much as I'm a die hard Ducks fan, I'd call the Husky tat a fair trade LOL.

Yes, you have to be very careful if you remove them like this, but it worked well. You will want some kind of tool to break the surface of the seal first, so you can get the screws started. Once the seals were removed, we used 2000 grit sand paper to touch up the journals.
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We'll see what happens Oct 8th...I'm, hopeful this year.


diverscale said:
Guys, for my personal information, when using those big wood screws to remove the two cam seals, couldn't the large wood screw gouge the metal surface of the camshaft and cause a leaking seal at the next installation? It clearly appear to be outside the inner race of the seal.
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Yea, not a huge fan of the screw method. I brought my seal removal tool with me and mentioned someone on here recommended using screws. We figured we would give it a try. Honestly, not a fan. The journal was ever so slightly scored and we spent some time on it with 2000 grit wet/dry paper until you couldn't feel anything with your eyes closed. I was 100% confident before installing the new seals. I think I'll stick to my seal removal tool the next time.
 
stir_fry_boy said:
When pulling the cam/crank seals, be careful not to damage the aluminum that surrounds the seals. That's where the seal puller comes into it's own. It's not hard, just a bit more work.
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Agreed. Tried the screw method but not a fan.
 
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Rock_Rat said:
We'll see what happens Oct 8th...I'm, hopeful this year.




Yea, not a huge fan of the screw method. I brought my seal removal tool with me and mentioned someone on here recommended using screws. We figured we would give it a try. Honestly, not a fan. The journal was ever so slightly scored and we spent some time on it with 2000 grit wet/dry paper until you couldn't feel anything with your eyes closed. I was 100% confident before installing the new seals. I think I'll stick to my seal removal tool the next time.
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Thanks for the info. Never seen this screw trick before. Would it have been possible to take smaller screws and not to score the journal? It's always good to know these kind of solutions when in trouble.
 
diverscale said:
Thanks for the info. Never seen this screw trick before. Would it have been possible to take smaller screws and not to score the journal? It's always good to know these kind of solutions when in trouble.
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I agree with you. I believe it would have been possible with smaller screws. The problem is I brought with me screws with course threads instead of a screw with a sharp point and fine threads. I think that may have made a difference. I really didn't think much of it at the time. Try as we could it was difficult to get the screws started. It seemed like I could have used a tiny drill bit for a pilot hole. Clearly user error. I know this works as I've seen guys on here use this method.
 
Ok all,

I got everything back on and turned it over. SUCCESS!

However, after letting it run for a minute, I turned it off again and now when I try to turn it over, it won't start :-( It makes a sputtering noise, and almost starts to run, like it needs a little bit of gas, but it won't sustain. Any key points to check? I'll post a video shortly so you can hear what it sounds like.


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Jumpkix said:
Ok all,

I got everything back on and turned it over. SUCCESS!

However, after letting it run for a minute, I turned it off again and now when I try to turn it over, it won't start :-( It makes a sputtering noise, and almost starts to run, like it needs a little bit of gas, but it won't sustain. Any key points to check? I'll post a video shortly so you can hear what it sounds like.


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No check engine light?
 
Jumpkix said:
There wasn't while it was running, no. I only ran it for about a minute, so I hope that wasn't too long in that I might have caused additional problems.


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Interesting. I imagine it's something simple. Get that video up and we'll figure it out.
 
Ok, back up and running! I think I've identified the culprit:
a4820ca5b1379c6ad4e2df3ec3a569b9.jpg


One of the bolts that could not be tracked down from the original mechanic. I think because it wasn't quite grounding properly, I couldn't get it to turn back over. Letting it run now for a bit, and adding coolant/atf.


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Whew, not a post you like to see after working on someone's engine! Everything we did on Saturday rushed through my mind. Glad it's running!
 
Rock_Rat said:
Whew, not a post you like to see after working on someone's engine! Everything we did on Saturday rushed through my mind. Glad it's running!
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Mike, your attention to detail and craftsmanship is solid! I had no doubt that our work Saturday was good to go.

How much transmission fluid do you think was lost from the radiator?


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Jumpkix said:
Mike, your attention to detail and craftsmanship is solid! I had no doubt that our work Saturday was good to go.

How much transmission fluid do you think was lost from the radiator?


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Couldn't tell you. My guess would be about a quart and a half at the most.
 
Jumpkix said:
Mike, your attention to detail and craftsmanship is solid! I had no doubt that our work Saturday was good to go.

How much transmission fluid do you think was lost from the radiator?


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Click to expand...
Only way to check it properly is to get it to 156-176 degrees F and then run it through all gears and then check dipstick. Maybe half a quart or so iirc. Glad its running!

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LittleCaesar said:
I hope you have invested in some of this by now:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05023-Technician-Battery-Indicator/dp/B000CIRTY0
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Should I get that, or the protectant? I heard baking soda and water works pretty well for cleaning up the residue.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472569830&sr=1-1&keywords=crc+battery



SurrenderToThePhlo said:
Get yourself a good mechanic, hope it works out.
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Phelpsangry-536390.jpg
 
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