timing belt job

[running white]

hey folks. after fighting a stomach virus and the elements I finally finished my timing belt job. I won't give you a step by step report since there are several already on the internet to follow but I thought I would give a couple of suggestions to those who have not done this job.
1. since you have to take off the crankshaft pulley, go ahead and take off the crankshaft sprocket and replace the crankshaft seal with a OEM only. I paid 8 bucks at the dealer for mine.
2. invest in the proper tools for the job. consider your tools an investment since they save you time and money that can be invested elsewhere.
3. the crankshaft bolt. I almost bought an impact for that one bolt. instead, I use a 18 inch breaker bar with a cheater bar that took it to around 30 inches. I used a impact socket and a homemade tool that I made to hold the pulley. I had no problems taking it off or getting it back on to the correct torque. I know some of you may frown on using a breaker bar but I did not have time or money to invest in the impact wrench or a compressor this time.
It is not a bad job. In fact, the hardest part for me was taking off the fan due to a previous mechanics decision to locktite the nuts on the fan. I managed to get through that. Also, PB Blaster worked when I needed it to. If you have questions please ask.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I broke a few 6mm bolts trying to remove the harmonic balancer.

I also broke the head off one of the 4 AC compressor mounting bolts.

I also broke the head off the alt belt tensioner.

It took two afternoons to get everything apart. And around 2 hours to put everything back together.

I took all the brackets to work and sand blasted every bracket I removed. Then primed and painted at home.

Then went to the junkyard to find the bolts I broke.

I had a really bad front crank seal leak. And figured I'd do the hole timing kit since its history was unknown. Glad I did.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

My brother welded me up a real nice tool to hold the crankshaft pulley while removing and putting back on. It was a life saver.

As far as that crankshaft pulley bolt goes - I could not get it to budge on my factory original motor with a Snap-On impact gun and large compressor turned up way high.

I had to use a breaker bar also with a 2 foot pipe extension. That bolt is in there - and I mean in there _tight_.

I'll add to your list that its a stressed bolt and must be replaced if removed.

 

[OTB]

hey folks. after fighting a stomach virus and the elements I finally finished my timing belt job. I won't give you a step by step report since there are several already on the internet to follow but I thought I would give a couple of suggestions to those who have not done this job.
1. since you have to take off the crankshaft pulley, go ahead and take off the crankshaft sprocket and replace the crankshaft seal with a OEM only. I paid 8 bucks at the dealer for mine.
2. invest in the proper tools for the job. consider your tools an investment since they save you time and money that can be invested elsewhere.
2a. ignore suggestion #2 when reading suggestion #3
3. the crankshaft bolt. I almost bought an impact for that one bolt. instead, I use a 18 inch breaker bar with a cheater bar that took it to around 30 inches. I used a impact socket and a homemade tool that I made to hold the pulley. I had no problems taking it off or getting it back on to the correct torque. I know some of you may frown on using a breaker bar but I did not have time or money to invest in the impact wrench or a compressor this time.
It is not a bad job. In fact, the hardest part for me was taking off the fan due to a previous mechanics decision to locktite the nuts on the fan. I managed to get through that. Also, PB Blaster worked when I needed it to. If you have questions please ask.

Fixed it for you....just kidding, nice list.

 

[running white]

thought I would add a couple of more things:
I took the radiator out for more room to work and it helped me see everything better as I worked. It is not hard to do and I wished I had swapped it out with a new one while I was in there.

I should had took the time to replace the hydraulic tensioner. It is a real pain to get to and swap out but if I had to do all this again I would go ahead and buy the part.

When I got down to the crankshaft seal, it was put in loppsided meaning one side was all the way in properly but the driver side had not been pushed in completely. to get mine out I used a nail and a hammer to poke a hole in it carefullly not to hit metal. Then I used a hooked, pointed screw driver and stuck it through the hole and pulled it out. simple.

I did not replaced the crankshaft bolt. the dealer told me they never replaced them for customers. their price for a bolt was around 40$$$. so far so good.

 

[Blitzkrieg]

Next time you are at your dealer parts dept., tell them to read the manual on timing belt replacement. ;-)
--------------------------------------------------
Using SST, ---> install a new bolt <---. SST 09213-54015 (90119-08216), 09330-00021

Torque: 300 Nm (3,000 kgf-cm, 217 ft. lbs.)
--------------------------------------------------

They definitely are a stressed bolt (not unlike a crankshaft main bolt for example) and @ 217 ft. lbs torque that bolt is definitely stretched to the nth degree when installing.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Also tell your dealer not to mark up the over the counter OEM replacement parts 200%+ anymore. The bolt lists for $6.41.

Thanks for the T-belt tips.