Tip for bleeding brakes (4th & 5th gen)

[Jed]

According to the shop manual, the rear brakes on the '05 and up 4Runner will continue to pump brake fluid through the caliper automatically for as long as you have the bleeder open and someone inside the vehicle applying the brake pedal. However, I discovered this weekend that it works that way on my '04 as well. My '04 is a very late build, so I'm not positive that this will work for all '04 models.

Anyway, this makes bleeding a breeze. Just make sure that the master cylinder doesn't run dry...because if it does, you'll have no choice but to tow your 4Runner to a Toyota dealer where they will have to hook it up to a scan tool in order to properly bleed the brakes.

And if you've ever wanted to completely replace that old brake fluid with some fresh stuff, it's really easy. Just use a clean turkey baster to suck out as much of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir as you can, then refill it with fresh fluid. Then you can go to the rear and let the vehicle pump the fluid out until it turns clear. No need to have a second person constantly pumping the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valve repeatedly. Just keep constant pressure on the brake pedal and open the bleeder valve while the pump does the work. Unfortunately, this only works for the rear brakes. The fronts will have to be done the conventional way.

Forgot to say: Make sure you have the key on (engine NOT running) when bleeding your brakes. This is clearly indicated in the manual and required for the pump to assist in bleeding

 

[CJ3Flyr]

According to the shop manual, the rear brakes on the '05 and up 4Runner will continue to pump brake fluid through the caliper automatically for as long as you have the bleeder open and someone inside the vehicle applying the brake pedal. However, I discovered this weekend that it works that way on my '04 as well. My '04 is a very late build, so I'm not positive that this will work for all '04 models.

Anyway, this makes bleeding a breeze. Just make sure that the master cylinder doesn't run dry...because if it does, you'll have no choice but to tow your 4Runner to a Toyota dealer where they will have to hook it up to a scan tool in order to properly bleed the brakes.

And if you've ever wanted to completely replace that old brake fluid with some fresh stuff, it's really easy. Just use a clean turkey baster to suck out as much of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir as you can, then refill it with fresh fluid. Then you can go to the rear and let the vehicle pump the fluid out until it turns clear. No need to have a second person constantly pumping the brakes while you open and close the bleeder valve repeatedly. Just keep constant pressure on the brake pedal and open the bleeder valve while the pump does the work. Unfortunately, this only works for the rear brakes. The fronts will have to be done the conventional way.

That's cool :bigok: It's weird the fronts don't do it that way too.

 

[TechWrench]

From what I can determine from my '03 manual, the front brakes can also be bled using the master cylinder electric pump. The process they describe is interesting, and I will have to try it to see exactly how it works. I just finished installing new(rebuilt) front calipers, pads, and rotors, and I used the one-man bleed system I have used for years, and it worked fine. The pedal height and travel appear to be normal, and the brakes work well with all the rotor pulse eliminated. When I get some time, I am going to try the book method, and see if it makes any difference in the pedal feel.

Not sure if they modified the proceedure for later years, but as far as I know, there wasn't any design changes in the braking system after '03.

 

[Jed]

Well, I read two different manuals that both indicated the rear brakes can be bled using the pump (instead of manually pumping the brake pedal and repeatedly opening/closing the bleeder valve) for the '05 and up 4Runners. I was surprised that my late-build '04 also allowed me to bleed the rears that way. There was definitely a change in the braking system from '03, but the question is if it was changed in '04 or just some time during the '04 model run. Like I said, my '04 is a very late build, so the switch might have occurred before the '04 model run was finished.

BTW, the fronts definitely cannot be bled that way. The pump only helps with the rear brakes. Try it and you'll see right away. I wish it worked on all 4 brakes because it makes bleeding an absolute breeze. The person helping me out said that the brake pedal sank as I bled out the fronts, but due to the pump action, the pedal didn't sink at all while I was bleeding the rears.

 

[jeober]

just be sure

that you don't let the fluid level drop too low in the reservoir while bleeding. If you get air into the master cylinder, you'll have to re-bleed.

It's too bad that DOT3 fluid can't be in different colors to see when you're pushing new fluid completely through. Well it's pretty cheap so one can error with too much.

 

[jackjroadster]

Hi. I have no experience in bleeding brakes and this will be my first time to do it. I have a hard time grasping lengthy instructions found on the internet so I searched for videos that would help me to understand the instructions more clearly. I found this video about brake bleeding and I would like to know if I could apply it on my '04. Please advice.

 

[Bob22222]

From what I can determine from my '03 manual, the front brakes can also be bled using the master cylinder electric pump. The process they describe is interesting, and I will have to try it to see exactly how it works. I just finished installing new(rebuilt) front calipers, pads, and rotors, and I used the one-man bleed system I have used for years, and it worked fine. The pedal height and travel appear to be normal, and the brakes work well with all the rotor pulse eliminated. When I get some time, I am going to try the book method, and see if it makes any difference in the pedal feel.

Not sure if they modified the proceedure for later years, but as far as I know, there wasn't any design changes in the braking system after '03.

Techwrench, I know this is from an old post but I see you are still an active member. Would you mind elaborating on the one person bleed procedure you have used successfully. Particularly, where you speaking of a hand pump I believe is called a "might vac". in the past I have use one of these hand vacs successfully in other brake bleed applications but I am unclear as to if this meathod posses a risk to the master cylinder or elsewhere in the system.

 

[TechWrench]

Techwrench, I know this is from an old post but I see you are still an active member. Would you mind elaborating on the one person bleed procedure you have used successfully. Particularly, where you speaking of a hand pump I believe is called a "might vac". in the past I have use one of these hand vacs successfully in other brake bleed applications but I am unclear as to if this meathod posses a risk to the master cylinder or elsewhere in the system.

When I say 'Hand Pump', I mean pumping the brake pedal by hand. I use a small recovery bottle that is attached to the bleeder on the caliper, using a plastic hose which just fits over the bleeder nipple. The bottle has a magnetic disc attached, so you can mount the bottle on a frame/suspension part above the height of the caliper. It has a small hose that extends into the bottom of the bottle. When attached to the bleeder, and you open the bleeder, it acts as a collection point for the fluid that is pushed out of the bleeder when the pedal is depressed. As long as the hoses are connected properly, it does not allow air to be drawn back into the caliper, when the pedal is released and returns to is up position. So, with this device connected, and the MC full of fluid, and fill cap removed, I can bleed most brakes by myself. I have used this method on my 4Runners, and other vehicles for years. You just have to make sure the MC is full of fluid, so air isn't drawn into the system through it. I do not pump the pedal hard, instead I press down slowly and let it return slowly. I also bleed the individual calipers via the gravity method first to eliminate the majority of air in the line, before I use the collection bottle to finish the job. I have been using this method for over 20 years, and have not had a problem yet.

 

[Bob22222]

When I say 'Hand Pump', I mean pumping the brake pedal by hand. I use a small recovery bottle that is attached to the bleeder on the caliper, using a plastic hose which just fits over the bleeder nipple. The bottle has a magnetic disc attached, so you can mount the bottle on a frame/suspension part above the height of the caliper. It has a small hose that extends into the bottom of the bottle. When attached to the bleeder, and you open the bleeder, it acts as a collection point for the fluid that is pushed out of the bleeder when the pedal is depressed. As long as the hoses are connected properly, it does not allow air to be drawn back into the caliper, when the pedal is released and returns to is up position. So, with this device connected, and the MC full of fluid, and fill cap removed, I can bleed most brakes by myself. I have used this method on my 4Runners, and other vehicles for years. You just have to make sure the MC is full of fluid, so air isn't drawn into the system through it. I do not pump the pedal hard, instead I press down slowly and let it return slowly. I also bleed the individual calipers via the gravity method first to eliminate the majority of air in the line, before I use the collection bottle to finish the job. I have been using this method for over 20 years, and have not had a problem yet.

Thanks, i may well give that method again. I've long since forgot and have pretty much used two people or the mighty vac method for the past few decades but I do remember using it back in the early 70s. The magnetic bottle tip is a good tip as I can remember it was a hassle to hold the receiving container (a beer bottle?) in place and things got messy. Other than that I think I can recall it being a satisfactory meathod but doing so with a or hap-hazard approach can lead to drawing contaminated fluid back into the system. But I'll be using fresh calipers which should have clean the internal passage on the bleeders.

 

[Bob22222]

Oh yeah TechWrench, thanks for the reminder about slow pressure and release on the pedal. That could have been part of my problem in my late teens and early twenties I may have very well lacked that insight, pumped the hell out the the pedal thus foaming or aerating the fluid defeating my propose.