Tips required for Removing Rear ABS Sensor

Is there a technique for removing the rear ABS Sensor?? Removed bolt and despite applying copious amounts of WD40/PB.Blaster and tapping with a screw driver handle, this sucker will not budge. Terrified I break the plastic as this part is big coin.
Tips anyone??
 
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Is there a technique for removing the rear ABS Sensor?? Removed bolt and despite applying copious amounts of WD40/PB.Blaster and tapping with a screw driver handle, this sucker will not budge. Terrified I break the plastic as this part is big coin.
Tips anyone??

Why are you removing it? Had same issue when replacing rear axle seals/bearings. The FSM says take it out - I did not.....no need.

Buckaroo
 
Why are you removing it? Had same issue when replacing rear axle seals/bearings. The FSM says take it out - I did not.....no need.

Buckaroo

Rear axle seal and bearing etc.replacement. Bearing totally failed covering the ABS sensor with parts of disintegrated seal and grease. I have thoroughly cleaned the inner face and want to able to remove sensor in the future to check there is no gear oil getting passed the seal.
 
Why are you removing it? Had same issue when replacing rear axle seals/bearings. The FSM says take it out - I did not.....no need.

Buckaroo

Because if you replace the axel seals the way you can check and see if your inner seal is leaking is to pull the ABS sensor and check for gear oil. There shouldn't be any in there. If it is dry your good. Some shops have a 1 year guarantee on a diff rebuild. So it may not leak on the outer seal (onto tire) but will on the inner which will eventually leak out the outer seal so if you see it leaking in ABS port take it back and make them fix it while under the 1 year warrantee.

Ranchdog
 
That ABS sensor is just held in there with a rubber o-ring. If you can't get a firm enough grip with your fingers, I'd tape up the jaws of a pair of channel locks with some electrical tape or whatever tape you have at your disposal, grab onto the sensor with a light amount of force and try to wiggle it out of there.
 
Mine really fought me when I pulled the diff to do my frame swap. Getting the connector on top of the frame apart was something I was also unable to do. I used PB Blaster, ChannelLocks to no avail. Finally, I got up the courage to use a thin screwdriver going under the thickest part of the triangle that the screw goes into, and semi-gently tapped it in there to get it started. Then back to the ChannelLocks. I may have started with a StanleyKnife, I don't really remember. I went back and forth a few times as I worried those puppies out. Don't go under the point of the triangle, you'll break it for sure. Stay in the thick part close to the sensor itself. First time they came out in seventeen years of NJ road salt.

I can't guarantee it will work, but it worked for me.
 
Because if you replace the axel seals the way you can check and see if your inner seal is leaking is to pull the ABS sensor and check for gear oil. There shouldn't be any in there. If it is dry your good. Some shops have a 1 year guarantee on a diff rebuild. So it may not leak on the outer seal (onto tire) but will on the inner which will eventually leak out the outer seal so if you see it leaking in ABS port take it back and make them fix it while under the 1 year warrantee.

Ranchdog

Yes, that's what I was reading at the time but, as the Architect says, it's a big $$ part if you hose it up. I already had fluid onto the drums so verifying it was an exercise....I think they tell you to remove that sensor so that you don't damage it when you pull the axle with the tone ring. No issues..... just be careful.

Buckaroo
 
Mine was seized too and despite ample amounts of PB Blaster, the plastic broke while I was trying to pry it out. Oh well it's part of the axle now.

It's really not necessary to remove to perform an axle service.
 
Is there a technique for removing the rear ABS Sensor?? Removed bolt and despite applying copious amounts of WD40/PB.Blaster and tapping with a screw driver handle, this sucker will not budge. Terrified I break the plastic as this part is big coin.
Tips anyone??

With bolt out, use channel locks to get the sensor to rotate in the hole, then a screw driver to help pry it out while rotating. Is the sensor body plastic? I thought mine were maybe aluminum or something and galled a bit from the channel locks. Might be remembering it wrong. Anyway, the sensor body seemed solidly built.
 
I would make sure you can rotate the sensor a little bit before attempting to pry it out. Mine seem to be generating some suction when I attempted to pull it straight out. I basically just wiggled it back and forth until it finally worked it's way up a bit so I could get a screw driver under it. Do not apply much force to the screw driver, just enough so you can make some progress as you keep wiggling it back and forth. Eventually it just comes out.

I do live in California with a California truck, so your experience might be different!
 
I wiggle it with channel locks while using light pressure under the bolt tab with a ladyfinger. (has worked for me 4 out of 4 times, your mileage may vary.)
 
I wiggle it with channel locks while using light pressure under the bolt tab with a ladyfinger. (has worked for me 4 out of 4 times, your mileage may vary.)

What's a 'ladyfinger'? I did a Google image search and I got several hundred okra vegetables, a few hundred cookies, and two or three intimate vibrators. None of those seem up to the task.
 
Lol - also called lady's foot, apparently:
387e915442ae069f0934bbe7c24f1f1c.jpg



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Success!! Channel locks with some tape on the jaws. Wiggled slowly in a rotation motion while pulling and it began to move and slowly came out. There is no place to stick a screw driver or blade in the cylinder portion and didn't want to force the triangular piece as noted above. Bought some dielectric grease this morning so don't have this issue again. Thank you for all the replies. Next is to drive home the new axle seal......
 
Success!! Channel locks with some tape on the jaws. Wiggled slowly in a rotation motion while pulling and it began to move and slowly came out. There is no place to stick a screw driver or blade in the cylinder portion and didn't want to force the triangular piece as noted above. Bought some dielectric grease this morning so don't have this issue again. Thank you for all the replies. Next is to drive home the new axle seal......

Do yourself a favor. Along with the grease, put a tiny bead of silicone btwn the sensor and the housing. Grease will only help if it's the only thing thats in there.
 
Be sure to put anti seize in the housing before you throw that sensor in and you won't have any problems in the future


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Went to replace my ABS sensor and it was broken. Now the portion that goes into the hub is stuck. Any tips on how to remove that without doing any damage?
 

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