Tire noise or what from front end?

[rgcary]

Good evening. I wanted to take a poll and see if anyone else has heard of winding noises from your front end when in 4wd or not? It sounds as if I almost have off road tires or I'm hitting the rumble strips on the side of pavement. It's always between 40-50 MPH, no matter what gear I'm in. Up hill, coasting, applying breaks seem to not change the sound. I've looked under the front end and nothing stands out, no grease leaking or anything from boots, joints, etc. I'm wondering if I have a bearing going bad and it's from that. Like I said it really sounds as if I have big off-road tires and that noise you get from them. I'm probably the only one that can hear it because I've owned it since 2005 and have put 164,000 miles on it. So I know when something sounds odd. Another thing is that you only hear this when moving and on most road surfaces. If you turn the wheels side to side the noise almost goes away during the side to side movement, but back when straight line. I recently had the tires rotated, but they're only 40% worn across all tread and I don't ever recall this happening before when rotated every 6000 miles. Front/rear diffs and transfer case are also changed every 30,000 with same synthetic fluid I've been using over the 164,000 miles.

Any ideas?

Thank you,

Rick

 

[Morphyne]

It certainly sounds like a wheel bearing. Can you identify which side (left or right) is noisy? If you can then it is the opposite bearing that needs replaced. at your mileage I would almost guarantee that is the issue.

It manifests in the opposite tire and goes away when you turn. You can just replace the wheel bearing but if you are a DIY kind of guy it is easier and better to just replace the whole hub assembly. contact this guy. he assembles these. I have bought 2 from his and they are great.


Bill Tomerlin
Chief Operations Officer
Marion Bumper2Bumper Automotive, LLC.
2513 Crescent Rd
Navarre, FL 32566

334-247-5430
Marion Bumper2Bumper Automotive
SURFNTURFKUSTOMS.COM - Home

 

[rgcary]

Thank you for the info. How else can you tell if it's going bad? If I jack the front end up and spin the wheel or feel any play in the wheel would you be able to tell? I am a DIY, but something like this I would probably leave to pros. It looks pretty easy, but I can see where I would probably need an impact wrench for the center axle nut? Any idea on labor cost or time for mechanic for replacement of entire hub vs the bearing? Should you replace in pairs? Looks like a pair will cost you about $150 for the front, not bad.

Seems pretty simple below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ-DGdt2J2U

It certainly sounds like a wheel bearing. Can you identify which side (left or right) is noisy? If you can then it is the opposite bearing that needs replaced. at your mileage I would almost guarantee that is the issue.

It manifests in the opposite tire and goes away when you turn. You can just replace the wheel bearing but if you are a DIY kind of guy it is easier and better to just replace the whole hub assembly. contact this guy. he assembles these. I have bought 2 from his and they are great.


Bill Tomerlin
Chief Operations Officer
Marion Bumper2Bumper Automotive, LLC.
2513 Crescent Rd
Navarre, FL 32566

334-247-5430
Marion Bumper2Bumper Automotive
SURFNTURFKUSTOMS.COM - Home[/QU

 

[DEF4Runner]

You're right. If you get the wheel off the ground and feel play when push/pulling the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock, you most likely have a suspect wheel bearing.

As for leaving it to the pros, well...it's your call but I watched the same YouTube video and did mine in a couple of hours. You won't need an impact gun for the axle nut. A 1/2 breaker bar and a 35 or 36mm socket will do the trick; however, you'll most likely want a torque wrench to spec that axle nut when you're done.

Overall, pretty easy - if you get the preassembled bearings.

 

[rgcary]

Thanks and I'll try the wheel test first, then go from there. Yes, it will be preassembled. I just hate to pay the $80/hour in labor when I know it's something I could do and feel good about finishing the job myself. Should you replace in pairs?

You're right. If you get the wheel off the ground and feel play when push/pulling the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock, you most likely have a suspect wheel bearing.

As for leaving it to the pros, well...it's your call but I watched the same YouTube video and did mine in a couple of hours. You won't need an impact gun for the axle nut. A 1/2 breaker bar and a 35 or 36mm socket will do the trick; however, you'll most likely want a torque wrench to spec that axle nut when you're done.

Overall, pretty easy - if you get the preassembled bearings.

 

[DEF4Runner]

The predominant school of thought is yes, replace in pairs, if the checkbook allows. I'll toss in another nickel and say replace ANY L/R suspension part together. If one fails, the other usually isn't too far behind (unless you know of specific abuse the one part took).

One other note, not sure where you live on the east coast, but with your mileage, be prepared for a bit of a fight to get it off. I replaced mine at around 125K and it damn sure didn't come off as easy as the staged presentation on the video. Keep at it though with a BFH and large chisel, hitting each corner evenly. It'll work itself off. Getting it back on is a cinch. Just tighten the bolts evenly as you go. It pretty much walks itself in.

 

[rgcary]

Thanks. We're in the Raleigh/Durham area in NC. Not on the coast and vehicle is only driven on the street. I just noticed this a few weeks ago, but then again it's not all that loud and I'm sure will get worst. Given the mileage I have I'm always looking and waiting for something to sound odd. I've had to replace some suspension parts and do them in pairs too, so will do this in pair. When looking at the cost I'm probably going to have to end up spending about $350 for hub assembly in a pair that are pressed, then I'm guessing about $100/side to have then put on. I'm just nervous about doing this given the mileage I have, bolts rusted, etc. Probably looking at about $600 bill when it's all done.

The predominant school of thought is yes, replace in pairs, if the checkbook allows. I'll toss in another nickel and say replace ANY L/R suspension part together. If one fails, the other usually isn't too far behind (unless you know of specific abuse the one part took).

One other note, not sure where you live on the east coast, but with your mileage, be prepared for a bit of a fight to get it off. I replaced mine at around 125K and it damn sure didn't come off as easy as the staged presentation on the video. Keep at it though with a BFH and large chisel, hitting each corner evenly. It'll work itself off. Getting it back on is a cinch. Just tighten the bolts evenly as you go. It pretty much walks itself in.

 

[DEF4Runner]

$350?! Check this out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/151359-complete-front-wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html

 

[rgcary]

Thanks. Still is about $360 for the entire front for 4wd. But would rather buy from someone on the forum other than ebay or somewhere else. I sent a PM to the guy and will check into it just to make sure mine are bad with play and a second set of qualified ears.

$350?! Check this out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/151359-complete-front-wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html

 

[fdbyrne]

For front bearings contact [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION]. Good bearing assemblies ready to drop in for about $170. Good product and install only takes about an hour.

 

[rgcary]

Thank you. I reached out to him and we discussed. I need to jack it up and see if it's truly the bearings, if there any play, etc. I'm not convinced it's that yet and everything from transmission to rear and front diffs function fine. No torn boots or any fluids or grease leaking. It's an ever so slightest noise around 35 - 45 mph when driving, slowing down etc. See, when you have a vehicle this long and put 164,000 miles on it since 2005, roughly 15,000/year you know what it should sound like and any odd sounds bring up a red flag. I'm partially crazy too because I don't like any squeaks inside or noises. ;-) We'll see how things go when dash is replaced too. Hoping it does not produce any additional noises. Thanks for replying.

For front bearings contact [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION]. Good bearing assemblies ready to drop in for about $170. Good product and install only takes about an hour.

 

[Morphyne]

Guys. $350 is the right number. He is replacing both wheel bearings. Please read entire post before confusing the OP.

rgcary. It's a lot easier than it looks. The only toil you likely don't have is a torque wrench. Autozone rents these for free. Just make sure you get the big one.

 

[Morphyne]

Process is simple.

1. Take off wheel and axel nut dust cover.
2. Have a helper turn the truck on (dont start it)
3. Have helper press brake pedel.
4. Remove axel nut.
5. Remove caliper and rotor.
6. Loosen bearing assembly bolts.
7. Wedge flat side chisel in between bearing assembly and dust sheild and separate the bearing assembly for the steering knuckle.
8. Install new bearing assembly in reverse order.

 

[rgcary]

Thanks. Confirmed it's the passenger front. There is play in the wheel when moving side to side and top to bottom, unlike the driver side when jacked. So I will go with the passenger side for now and be done. It does not save me much to buy them all together anyway. Thanks for all the information.

Guys. $350 is the right number. He is replacing both wheel bearings. Please read entire post before confusing the OP.

rgcary. It's a lot easier than it looks. The only toil you likely don't have is a torque wrench. Autozone rents these for free. Just make sure you get the big one.

 

[rgcary]

Thanks. Just like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ-DGdt2J2U

Process is simple.

1. Take off wheel and axel nut dust cover.
2. Have a helper turn the truck on (dont start it)
3. Have helper press brake pedel.
4. Remove axel nut.
5. Remove caliper and rotor.
6. Loosen bearing assembly bolts.
7. Wedge flat side chisel in between bearing assembly and dust sheild and separate the bearing assembly for the steering knuckle.
8. Install new bearing assembly in reverse order.

 

[rgcary]

Timken inner seal 710573

Are any of you guys replacing the inner seal too? P/N Timken inner seal 710573 when doing the hub assembly? Also what's the torque specs for the center axle nut? I just had one place say it takes 3 hours to do one side, ummm NO. I will attempt it myself before I take it somewhere.

 

[DEF4Runner]

I didn't replace the spindle seal when I changed my wheel bearing, but I am soon since I'm doing an axle change and needle bearing replacement and outer tie rod change.

You can search on the torque specs here on the site. I want to say it's around 180 lbs, but check and make sure. I've slept a few times since changing mine out. ��

A shop quoted you 3 hours? Seems a little steep. That's what it might take YOU.

 

[fdbyrne]

The torque spec for the axle nut depends on which FSM you look at. The 2003 version says 187 lbs but later versions give a value slightly over 200 lbs.

 

[Morphyne]

That's the one. The surprise for me was how much force was needed to wedge the chisel in to loosen the old bearing.

 

[fdbyrne]

I've heard that from others too, but mine popped right out when I pulled on it. Lucky I guess.