To Loctite or Not to Loctite (Ball joint bolts to spindle)?

[M22]

For those of you who have removed the 2 bolts holding the lower ball joint to the spindle (to remove/reinstall strut / LCA) what is the consensus blue loctite, red loctite, or no loctite torqued to spec.? It seems like many use red and many use nothing? The service manual on TIS does not mention the use of any thread locker.

 

[<<<<]

Torque to factory specs. No need for Locktite unless you drive on gravel or off road daily.

 

[themaestro]

I would tend to agree with the above.

When I did mine I used red loctite, then when I removed them 6 months later I had to use a torch to get them loose. I used blue the second time.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

Yes!! Just did mine a few weeks ago and the factory bolts had a red loctite on them from the factory. I put red back on them. I use red on all suspension components and have NEVER had to use heat to get them off.


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[Jetboy]

Factory Service Manual says 118 lbf and does not indicate any thread locker.

Personally, I use blue on anything I intend to remove again in the reasonably foreseeable future like those bolts.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

Factory Service Manual says 118 lbf and does not indicate any thread locker..

It's definitely on there, including the lower shock bolts on the front and rear.

 

[M22]

It's definitely on there, including the lower shock bolts on the front and rear.

Agreed, there is for sure something red on the factory bolts, but what is it is the question. The fact that they have red on them doesn't necessarily mean that its equivalent to something like Loctite red (which is supposed to require heat to remove) or if its a corrosion coating or a coating for aid in proper torque. When these factory bolts are removed they for sure do not require heat or even have that break in a bond type feeling when undone. Not sure, I guess I am leaning to blue or nothing with proper torque spec? To be safe for sure red would be great but dont want to fight them later or risk thread damage or breaking when they have to come back out.

 

[Jetboy]

What's on the OEM bolt is a dry thread locker that is colored red. I have no idea what strength it is. I don't know that there's a universal standard of color for thread locker strength. I doubt it's equivalent to red loctite. I don't think red loctite necessarily hurts anything as long as you can break it free without breaking the bolt shaft or causing excess strain on it, but I think it's pretty unlikely that what is on the OEM bolt is similar strength to red loctite.

If you use a liquid thread locker - you should back off the torque some to compensate for the lubrication of the threads. How much? I don't know. I generally don't actually adjust unless they're very small hardware like you'd use on bicycles. For larger hardware like vehicles the risk of breaking or plastic deformation of the bolt is low enough that the regular torque value should work fine. So it's mostly a theoretical discussion rather than a practical one, but in principle torque value should be changed. Loctite says not to. Loctite is wrong.

 

[M22]

What's on the OEM bolt is a dry thread locker that is colored red. I have no idea what strength it is. I don't know that there's a universal standard of color for thread locker strength. I doubt it's equivalent to red loctite. I don't think red loctite necessarily hurts anything as long as you can break it free without breaking the bolt shaft or causing excess strain on it, but I think it's pretty unlikely that what is on the OEM bolt is similar strength to red loctite.

If you use a liquid thread locker - you should back off the torque some to compensate for the lubrication of the threads. How much? I don't know. I generally don't actually adjust unless they're very small hardware like you'd use on bicycles. For larger hardware like vehicles the risk of breaking or plastic deformation of the bolt is low enough that the regular torque value should work fine. So it's mostly a theoretical discussion rather than a practical one, but in principle torque value should be changed. Loctite says not to. Loctite is wrong.

I 100% agree with your statement.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

Agreed, there is for sure something red on the factory bolts, but what is it is the question. The fact that they have red on them doesn't necessarily mean that its equivalent to something like Loctite red (which is supposed to require heat to remove) or if its a corrosion coating or a coating for aid in proper torque. When these factory bolts are removed they for sure do not require heat or even have that break in a bond type feeling when undone. Not sure, I guess I am leaning to blue or nothing with proper torque spec? To be safe for sure red would be great but dont want to fight them later or risk thread damage or breaking when they have to come back out.

I think the Toyota red is more comparable to the Blue Loctite. It's defiantly not a lube. I have always used Red on my suspension components on my race cars and street stuff as well. I've never had a single issue. I mostly use an impact for removing the bolts so that helps.

 

[Bayou_Pro]

If you use a liquid thread locker - you should back off the torque some to compensate for the lubrication of the threads. How much? I don't know. I generally don't actually adjust unless they're very small hardware like you'd use on bicycles. For larger hardware like vehicles the risk of breaking or plastic deformation of the bolt is low enough that the regular torque value should work fine. So it's mostly a theoretical discussion rather than a practical one, but in principle torque value should be changed. Loctite says not to. Loctite is wrong.

Maybe in theory but I've been building engines and racing cars for 25 years and have never done this when using Loctite, even when using blue on small stuff that are 20ish inch pounds. Head bolts and stuff that uses an actual assembly lube yes but Loctite no. Just my experience though.

 

[jspagna1]

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