Too much rake. Now what?

Sup41

New member
Hey guys,

Got two separate questions for you. Yesterday I installed my fox 2.0 lift 2" in front and 1 1/2" in back with the sway-a-way coils. As you'll see in the picture, the rake is ridiculous. So i'm wondering...

a) What options do I have to get the truck level? Can I use spacers on the coilovers? Or should I just go with smaller coils?

Also, after installing one shock, I realized the package said they were for 4th gen 4runners. I called the shop pissed, but they said it's "basically" universal.

b) Should I be worried about the 4th gen fox 2.0 parts?

Hv9sOoa.jpg
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Yeah the 4runner comes from the factory with a pretty significant rake and I found that a 3" lift on the front is about the only way to level it out. You could add a spacer on top of the front shocks. Figure how much lift you need to get the level your after and check out the poly spacers at Wheelers to get to the desired level. My guess is you will need 3/4"or 1" spacers. Also see what your side to side height is, then add additional lift on the drivers side to correct it. The poly spacers are stackable so you can really dial it in. Don't forget longer top plate bolts if you go over 1/2" of spacer.

https://wheelersoffroad.com/c-1404758-4runner-2010-4runner-suspension-front-shock-assembly-parts-spacers-top-plate-studs-etc.html


.





.
 
Last edited:
Yeah the 4runner comes from the factory with a pretty significant rake and I found that a 3" lift on the front is about the only way to level it out. You could add a spacer on top of the front shocks. Figure how much lift you need to get the level your after and check out the poly spacers at Wheelers to get to the desired level. My guess is you will need 3/4"or 1" spacers. Also see what your side to side height is, then add additional lift on the drivers side to correct it. The poly spacers are stackable so you can really dial it in. Don't forget longer top plate bolts if you go over 1/2" of spacer.

https://wheelersoffroad.com/c-1404758-4runner-2010-4runner-suspension-front-shock-assembly-parts-spacers-top-plate-studs-etc.html


.





.

Nice - thanks for info. You can def run spacers on a coilover? Also, are you aware of another shorter " lift options for rear? Can I run 1 1/2" shocks but go shorter on coils?
 
Nice - thanks for info. You can def run spacers on a coilover? Also, are you aware of another shorter " lift options for rear? Can I run 1 1/2" shocks but go shorter on coils?


If your goal is to lower the truck then yeah you can go shorter in the rear. If you want a raised truck, (better ground clearance, bigger tires), then raise the front more. Yes you can add spacers on top of the coilovers. Most peeps add at least a 1/4" to drivers side to get rid of the lean anyhow. Pretty simple, couple hour job.
Be aware that you probably don't want it dead level as you will want a bit of rake to compensate for carrying a load or hauling a trailer. You don't want to be ass low when hauling 8 bags of concrete form Home Depot.


.
 
Measure your frame heights just in front of the rear tires and behind the front tires where the frame runs straight between the fenders. If the heights are the same you simply raised it the same amount at each end. What looks like extra rake is just the increased space from the tops of your fenders. This will be much more obvious at the back than the front. Mine looks tall in the back but the frame is level, and I'm running 2" at both ends with 265 tires. Plus 2" doesn't look like much in the front but it looks huge in the back.
 

Attachments

  • 112418 copy1.jpg
    112418 copy1.jpg
    137.8 KB · Views: 4,344
Yeah the 4runner comes from the factory with a pretty significant rake and I found that a 3" lift on the front is about the only way to level it out.

1.5-2” will get u pretty much level-frame wise. The problem he is having is that the sway away coils are really more of a 2” lift (maybe even 2.5 before settling) if you research other people’s experiences with them. A before and after measurement would have confirmed.
 
All too familiar my friend.
I started out with the SAW 1.5 rear coils and got over 2.5 inches of lift from those and was running the Toytec 2 inch Pro spacer lift at the time. Like you, the rake was a joke.

I ended up with Icon coil overs and 2 Icon inch rear spring in the rear.

I am not certain how much of a load you carry, but to me 1 inch forward rake is acceptable because you don't want to look like you have a dirty diaper rolling down the road when loaded up for a trip.

Like others have said you either need spacers in the front and or rear coils that are indicative of their advertised lift. I'd be looking at Dobinson's 1.25 if I were you.
 
Last edited:
After measuring at the frame rails like mentioned above, if you're still not satisfied just look into different rear coils. There are lots of options out there anywhere from 1" to 2+" of lift. Check out Dobinsons, Wheelers Offroad, or Eibach rear coils just to name a few.
 
1.5-2” will get u pretty much level-frame wise. The problem he is having is that the sway away coils are really more of a 2” lift (maybe even 2.5 before settling) if you research other people’s experiences with them. A before and after measurement would have confirmed.

This is true. I have had SAW coils for a year and when I first installed them I gained about 2.5 inches. They have settled to 2 inches and have stayed that way for a while now.
 
This is true. I have had SAW coils for a year and when I first installed them I gained about 2.5 inches. They have settled to 2 inches and have stayed that way for a while now.

When I ran mine they ceased to settle even a hair.
 
a) What options do I have to get the truck level? Can I use spacers on the coilovers? Or should I just go with smaller coils?

Hv9sOoa.jpg

I have SAW 1.5 and Fox DSC 2.5’s (0-2”) I’ve got a lot more added weight up front (~250#’s) and mine looks nothing like yours, although I could make it look exactly like yours...

Have you preloaded your coil-overs? It looks to me like you haven’t even adjusted them.
 
I have SAW 1.5 and Fox DSC 2.5’s (0-2”) I’ve got a lot more added weight up front (~250#’s) and mine looks nothing like yours, although I could make it look exactly like yours...

Have you preloaded your coil-overs? It looks to me like you haven’t even adjusted them.

Well shit....
If the OP has coil overs (I am not familiar with Fox offerings) we shouldn't even be having this conversation yet.

OP- get to cranking and report back.
 
I have SAW 1.5 and Fox DSC 2.5’s (0-2”) I’ve got a lot more added weight up front (~250#’s) and mine looks nothing like yours, although I could make it look exactly like yours...

Have you preloaded your coil-overs? It looks to me like you haven’t even adjusted them.

Hmm I thought they came preset at 2"?
 
I have SAW 1.5 and Fox DSC 2.5’s (0-2”) I’ve got a lot more added weight up front (~250#’s) and mine looks nothing like yours, although I could make it look exactly like yours...

Have you preloaded your coil-overs? It looks to me like you haven’t even adjusted them.

They also gave me the 4th gen coilovers by accident. Wonder if that has something to do with it....
 
Hmm I thought they came preset at 2"?

You can pretty much keep on cranking as long as you have threads (you will come closer to bottoming out the shock though the taller you go past the 2" recommended height, the other model has a longer shaft). I have no idea what they say they come from the factory. I know when I installed mine they were only about 1/2" difference from my stock height.

Here is a pic of mine 5 years ago, gees I wished they still looked that good. You can see the amount of threads there are left about 3 inches worth. I can't for the life of me find an adjusted pic, I cranked them until my UCA got in the way (there is still over an inch of threads left) I ended up about 2.25"

See attached:

They also gave me the 4th gen coilovers by accident. Wonder if that has something to do with it....

Hmm not sure the only real difference I would think would be valving and spring weight. Look at the spring ID number printed on the spring. The numbers mean: 1200.250.0500 (Free Length in inches, ID in inches, weight lb/in) I can't remember the length off the top of my head but I do know the spring on my 2.5's the weight is 600 pounds.

I just looked the 2.0's have different part numbers.

5th gen - 983-02-051

4th gen - 985-02-002

150 series 5th gens are ~100-500 pounds heavier than 4th gen 120 series platform trucks, a 0.5-2" wider too (depending on 4th gen year).
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3021.jpg
    IMG_3021.jpg
    131.7 KB · Views: 949
You can pretty much keep on cranking as long as you have threads (you will come closer to bottoming out the shock though the taller you go past the 2" recommended height, the other model has a longer shaft). I have no idea what they say they come from the factory. I know when I installed mine they were only about 1/2" difference from my stock height.

Here is a pic of mine 5 years ago, gees I wished they still looked that good. You can see the amount of threads there are left about 3 inches worth. I can't for the life of me find an adjusted pic, I cranked them until my UCA got in the way (there is still over an inch of threads left) I ended up about 2.25"

See attached:



Hmm not sure the only real difference I would think would be valving and spring weight. Look at the spring ID number printed on the spring. The numbers mean: 1200.250.0500 (Free Length in inches, ID in inches, weight lb/in) I can't remember the length off the top of my head but I do know the spring on my 2.5's the weight is 600 pounds.

I just looked the 2.0's have different part numbers.

5th gen - 983-02-051

4th gen - 985-02-002

150 series 5th gens are ~100-500 pounds heavier than 4th gen 120 series platform trucks, a 0.5-2" wider too (depending on 4th gen year).

Dude..so helpful. Thank you. Posts like this make me wanna be more helpful on this forum :thanks:.

So this is to say that I will probably lose height considering this car weighs more?
 
yes, you have more weight over (of course it really depends where that weight is too; like a winch will make a huge difference hanging over the front) and if the spring is only 500 or 550 it will compress easier under load. ie it won't be as stiff.

You should check those numbers on your springs, call Fox (they are super helpful) and see what the spring setup is for the correct part number for your truck (ask if there is a difference in the valving too) If they're different make that shop take them back and get you the right part.

If they are all the same then start adjusting your preload collar.

Worst case, that shop doesn't honor their mistake and you have to spend a little more money and swap out your spring, like [MENTION=209140]Rightside Up[/MENTION] mentioned Dobinson's. Mike has direct fit +1.5" for 2.0 CO's.
That thread is here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...-4runner-suspension-options-lots-choices.html
 
Last edited:

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top