Torn CV boot
- Thread starter mlc2000
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mrpurplepenguin
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You can replace just the boots, but the common wisdom seems to be to just replace the entire shaft (especially if you're considering DIY). You get fresh assemblies, seals, and boots - and the removal/install process is a fraction of what it takes to replace a boot. Not too much extra expense, either. See here.
If you want to try replacing the boot yourself, see here. -How long has it been torn, and is there still grease in the CV joint (and no grime/grit in it)? If the joint is worn, you'd do better getting a fresh shaft as well.
I'm pretty sure the repair is different on 2wd - they don't have any CV boots (or CV joints) to worry about, so no repair needed!
If you want to try replacing the boot yourself, see here. -How long has it been torn, and is there still grease in the CV joint (and no grime/grit in it)? If the joint is worn, you'd do better getting a fresh shaft as well.
I'm pretty sure the repair is different on 2wd - they don't have any CV boots (or CV joints) to worry about, so no repair needed!
You can replace just the boots, but the common wisdom seems to be to just replace the entire shaft (especially if you're considering DIY). You get fresh assemblies, seals, and boots - and the removal/install process is a fraction of what it takes to replace a boot. Not too much extra expense, either. See here.
If you want to try replacing the boot yourself, see here. -How long has it been torn, and is there still grease in the CV joint (and no grime/grit in it)? If the joint is worn, you'd do better getting a fresh shaft as well.
I'm pretty sure the repair is different on 2wd - they don't have any CV boots (or CV joints) to worry about, so no repair needed!
Hard to tell how long but there is grease still in there and not much grease outside. Don't see any grime or grit though.
having fun
New member
Is it a torn boot or coming out by the clamps?
having fun
New member
If it's a pavement princes, just get an over the counter axle and save the time replacing. Times money.
To messy, making sure you have the right side put together and not all score on joint area.
From someone that has no problem doing things myself to save a buck.
To messy, making sure you have the right side put together and not all score on joint area.
From someone that has no problem doing things myself to save a buck.
I am in the minority. Replace the boot. They are $15 bucks on eBay. Easy afternoon job. Watch a video on YouTube. Easy do it yourself project and if the boot fails, what the heck it's $15!
I did a inner boot, it was the easiest cv boot I have ever done. Release the outer clamp, release the inner clamp and it falls apart. Remove a c clip, take off the inner bearing, put on the new boot and install new clamps and away you go.
If there is still clean grease in there, you are good. Full of grit, get a new shaft.
I did a inner boot, it was the easiest cv boot I have ever done. Release the outer clamp, release the inner clamp and it falls apart. Remove a c clip, take off the inner bearing, put on the new boot and install new clamps and away you go.
If there is still clean grease in there, you are good. Full of grit, get a new shaft.
having fun
New member
/\ there's the key word there.... If there's grit in there get a new shaft...
After you pulled it out and apart...where do i get one now to put it together....wishing you just bought a new axle about now N been done.
After you pulled it out and apart...where do i get one now to put it together....wishing you just bought a new axle about now N been done.
Unless you're going to try one of the split repair boots, replacing the axle is less work than replacing the boot unless you're going to try MFreund's method. Sounds like he left the axle in the knuckle and only removed the xfer case end.
If you've got any DIY skills at all, it's a couple of hour job. There are videos for 4Rs and FJs, including showing it done as a trail repair. In addition to some excellent write-ups. If you've got a jack, stands, and basic tools, you're good to go. The only relatively non-standard tool is the big axle nut socket, but you may be able to borrow one of those from a loan-a-tool place (Advance, Autozone, etc.).
Some folks try to knock the non-Toyota axles, but the new NAPA axle (Cardone) I chose was visually identical to the OE axle it replaced and only $80 with lifetime warranty. And the OE axle I took off was in better corrosion shape than the supposed OE reman'd that I let the local dealer put on a few years ago.
People swear by someone called CVJ or something like that who claim to only sell reman'd OE axles, but I don't see how they could tell the difference if I sent them my NAPA axle as a core.
-Brent
If you've got any DIY skills at all, it's a couple of hour job. There are videos for 4Rs and FJs, including showing it done as a trail repair. In addition to some excellent write-ups. If you've got a jack, stands, and basic tools, you're good to go. The only relatively non-standard tool is the big axle nut socket, but you may be able to borrow one of those from a loan-a-tool place (Advance, Autozone, etc.).
Some folks try to knock the non-Toyota axles, but the new NAPA axle (Cardone) I chose was visually identical to the OE axle it replaced and only $80 with lifetime warranty. And the OE axle I took off was in better corrosion shape than the supposed OE reman'd that I let the local dealer put on a few years ago.
People swear by someone called CVJ or something like that who claim to only sell reman'd OE axles, but I don't see how they could tell the difference if I sent them my NAPA axle as a core.
-Brent