Torque Pro App

BackpackingDad

New member
I know that Scan Gauge is a popular choice on this forum, but I was wondering if anyone has experience with the Torque Pro App. What I am interested in knowing (regardless of what device you might use) is what do you find to be the most important sensors/engine parameters to monitor. And of those you monitor, where do you find the acceptable norms. I look forward to your insight and appreciate your consideration!
 
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I use it often, i love it.

I monitor:
Engine temp (highest i've seen is 190F, usually around 186F)
Throttle body position (how far open the throttle is)
Voltage
Intake air temp (once moving, usually within 10F of ambient, pretty good)
Transmission pan temperature (highest i've seen was ~190F before adding the 2nd cooler, ~160F after the cooler)
Transmission torque converter outlet temp (Good for seeing if the converter is locked, how much it's slipping, etc. When locked it should read the same as the pan temp, unlocked and under a heavy load, you can see low 200s and will see the pan temp start to rise)

The trans temps require custom PIDs which can be found on the forums.
 
I use it often, i love it.

I monitor:
Engine temp (highest i've seen is 190F, usually around 186F)
Throttle body position (how far open the throttle is)
Voltage
Intake air temp (once moving, usually within 10F of ambient, pretty good)
Transmission pan temperature (highest i've seen was ~190F before adding the 2nd cooler, ~160F after the cooler)
Transmission torque converter outlet temp (Good for seeing if the converter is locked, how much it's slipping, etc. When locked it should read the same as the pan temp, unlocked and under a heavy load, you can see low 200s and will see the pan temp start to rise)

The trans temps require custom PIDs which can be found on the forums.

This exactly. I tend to have trouble with trans temp and how it updates but I use all the others.
 
Helpful

I use it often, i love it.

I monitor:
Engine temp (highest i've seen is 190F, usually around 186F)
Throttle body position (how far open the throttle is)
Voltage
Intake air temp (once moving, usually within 10F of ambient, pretty good)
Transmission pan temperature (highest i've seen was ~190F before adding the 2nd cooler, ~160F after the cooler)
Transmission torque converter outlet temp (Good for seeing if the converter is locked, how much it's slipping, etc. When locked it should read the same as the pan temp, unlocked and under a heavy load, you can see low 200s and will see the pan temp start to rise)

The trans temps require custom PIDs which can be found on the forums.

This is really helpful. Thank you for the input. I have not been able to find the forums or the custom PIDs. Do you have any links?
 
Mileage question

I use it also and monitor as mentioned above.

I think this is what I used to create the custom Trans Temp PID.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...orking-formula-tranny-temp-2.html#post1760494

Thanks again! Very helpful.
On a somewhat related note, I am puzzled by the significant drop in my mpg at hwy speeds over 65mph. I had hoped to gain some insight from the Torque Pro app. Do you have any thoughts of what parameters i might want to watch closely? Also concerned about the O2 sensor due to some oil that leaked from my k&n filter. I am a new owner of a used 4runner and just trying to figure a few things out. Thanks again for all you input. Very helpful!
 
Thanks again! Very helpful.
On a somewhat related note, I am puzzled by the significant drop in my mpg at hwy speeds over 65mph. I had hoped to gain some insight from the Torque Pro app. Do you have any thoughts of what parameters i might want to watch closely? Also concerned about the O2 sensor due to some oil that leaked from my k&n filter. I am a new owner of a used 4runner and just trying to figure a few things out. Thanks again for all you input. Very helpful!

That's most likely due to you driving a huge brick. The faster you try to go, the harder it is to push through the wind. That's normal. Exterior mods and larger tires only worsen the problem.
 
That's most likely due to you driving a huge brick. The faster you try to go, the harder it is to push through the wind. That's normal. Exterior mods and larger tires only worsen the problem.


So are you telling me the wind sock on my roof top is not aerodynamic. And yes, bigger tires in the future too. :crazy:
 

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Yes what he said !!! We're driving a very nice motorized box so if worried about mpg move on to something else :wave: ! I know most won't want to hear this but Crawford eco block works pretty good on the road not around town driving ! Seems to help on mine where your chance for a consistent speed works well & I normally drive 80ish on cruise been lucky to get 330-340 on a tank & that's before light blinks 285s also :eyebrows::flame:
 
I don't care how mad people get behind me; I generally keep it to 65 mph or less. It's a big, heavy brick, not a race car. Better MPG is just a nice side effect of that

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 
I don't care how mad people get behind me; I generally keep it to 65 mph or less. It's a big, heavy brick, not a race car. Better MPG is just a nice side effect of that

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Oh I care don't want some douche bag rear ending me cause he can't handle conditions !:dancin: :50cal::sadwave:
 

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