Towing Question

mcbean7

mcbean7

New member
Hi guys.
I'm wondering how many of you do a lot of towing with your 4Runners? I'm thinking about buying a boat and will be towing about 40 miles to the lake (80 miles round trip). The boat, trailer, fuel, and gear will come to about 6000 pounds. The trailer is a dual axle with disk brakes on both axles.
Please correct me if I'm wrong on these specs (I have the 05 V8 LTD 4WD 4Runner):
4Runner towing capacity: 7000lbs
Transmission cooler: yes

I've been told (for safety reasons) to stay around 60% of total towing capacity (which is 4200lbs). At 6000lbs I'm at 86% of total towing capacity. On paper I'm still OK but I'm wondering how it is in the real world. Also, regarding legal issues, I have also been told that if you are over your towing capacity and get in an accident, insurance will not cover. Again, on paper I'm OK at 6000lbs (if total towing capacity is 7000lbs) but I'd rather error on safety.

I did upgrade my brakes to heavy duty pads the last time I did a brake job. Is there anything else I can upgrade to improve braking?

What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance.
 
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I think you should easily be able to tow this. You should consider extending the side mirrors (either through clip-ons or other methods). Get a good brake controller! Main thing with towing is keep a good distance for braking, not heavy on the accelerator nor the brake, and unless absolutely necessary stay in the right lane.
 
Thanks for your reply. Can you explain what a brake controller is? Sorry...I'm not very mechanically-inclined. Is it easy to install/use?
 
mcbean7 said:
Thanks for your reply. Can you explain what a brake controller is? Sorry...I'm not very mechanically-inclined. Is it easy to install/use?
Click to expand...

Basically it translates the braking of your vehicle to the braking of the trailer using a connector (pigtail) that you should have in your vehicle. I think one of the more popular is the Hensley...

http://www.brake-controller.com/
 
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Remember the people in the T4R count as weight also. I pull an V8 I/O with a steel dual axel hundreds of miles each way and it's fine. Be sure about your boat and trailer weight though. Maybe consider a weight distrubution setup. The insurance thing is bs, your covered.
 
mcbean7 said:
Thanks for your reply. Can you explain what a brake controller is? Sorry...I'm not very mechanically-inclined. Is it easy to install/use?
Click to expand...

I had mine installed for $108 out the door (I got the controller itself from my dad, they probably cost 200-300). It is a box that usually sits under the dash, but I had mine installed in the little flip out storage container under the HVAC controls (I had to modify the box and fit it in before the shop would wire it). You said your trailer has brakes, the 4runner will need one of these to use the trailer brakes.
 
Will816 said:
I had mine installed for $108 out the door (I got the controller itself from my dad, they probably cost 200-300). It is a box that usually sits under the dash, but I had mine installed in the little flip out storage container under the HVAC controls (I had to modify the box and fit it in before the shop would wire it). You said your trailer has brakes, the 4runner will need one of these to use the trailer brakes.
Click to expand...

That's where I put my controller... Mostly I just like to see that it is working properly when I am towing...
 
Re: Re: Towing Question

DaBoostCreep said:
How do you activate the brakes as of now without the brake controller?
Click to expand...

The brakes on most boat trailers are surge brakes.

When you hit the brakes in the 4R, inertia of the trailer keeps it moving forward, which wants the push the trailer forward.

There is a master cylinder in the tongue of the trailer, which is compressed by the force of the trailer wanting to keep moving forward, and that sends pressure to the calipers/cylinders at the trailer wheels.
 
Re: Re: Re: Towing Question

Barefoot said:
The brakes on most boat trailers are surge brakes.

When you hit the brakes in the 4R, inertia of the trailer keeps it moving forward, which wants the push the trailer forward.

There is a master cylinder in the tongue of the trailer, which is compressed by the force of the trailer wanting to keep moving forward, and that sends pressure to the calipers/cylinders at the trailer wheels.
Click to expand...


:iagree: Ideally the boat trailer will have disc surge-brakes with a flat 5-wire connector. The extra wire is a brake lock-out that engages with the reverse lights.

There is no vehicle mounted brake controller required.

You can purchase a 7-5 at any Napa or good trailer place. Sometimes the Pep-Boys/Autozones of the world don't have them.

:cheers:
 
Yes, trailer does have surge brakes with 5 prong connector.

I have been reading all the responses on this and other forums. It sounds like the one thing that comes up is the brakes on these midsized SUVs possibly being inferior to stop such a heavy load. What can I do to "beef up" the brakes, if anything?
 
When you start looking around for towing mirror solutions you might want to check out McKesh Mirrors at: http://www.hensleymfg.com/mckeshmirrors.html

I use these on my 4Runner when I tow my enclosed car trailer (it's 8.5 feet wide).
After having tried some of the other clip-on mirrors on the market I found the McKesh mirrors give the best field of vision.
I have the optional convex mirrors as well.

Some people comment that my 4Runner looks funny with three mirrors on each side when I tow. I say, give me something that works.
Be advised that I did have to pry open the hook that fits under the doors of my 4Runner so that it fit properly.
I also use a piece of blue painter's tape on both door sills to protect the paint.
I have been using these mirrors for the last 4 years now and they have held up great.

I agree with others here that you need to have an accurate weight when it comes to the boat, trailer, fuel, etc.
It is also prudent to adhere to the Vehicle's Published Towing Capacity.
In the event of an accident (especially one that involved injury or death) being overweight will be used against you in court.
It will also come into play as far as tickets/fines from law enforcement.

Call me cynical, but I do believe that insurance companies will try to find ways to get out of paying off on a policy whenever possible.
That might be especially true if you somehow violate a law.

When it comes to vehicle insurance, it is best to talk with your insurance representative.
If your current coverage is the "required, state minimum" I suggest you look into more coverage.
This is VERY important if you have any assets that you could be forced to sell to pay off a lawsuit.
When it comes to towing, there are more opportunities for more accidents.
Those accidents also have the potential to be more serious and more expensive.

If you have never towed before, seek out someone you know locally and pick their brain.
There will be certain things related to towing that they will be more than willing to pass on to you.
Many of these guidelines and tips (some posted earlier in this thread) will make towing easier and keep you out of trouble.
 
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thanks for the reply charlier180. Just curious how heavy your car trailer is? I've been talking to others with the same boat/trailer. They say boat/trailer/fuel/gear adds up to 6000#.
 
mcbean7 said:
I have been reading all the responses on this and other forums. It sounds like the one thing that comes up is the brakes on these midsized SUVs possibly being inferior to stop such a heavy load. What can I do to "beef up" the brakes, if anything?
Click to expand...

Your first post said the trailer has disk brakes on both axles.

You'll be fine.

When people say that midsize SUV brakes aren't good enough to stop a heavy load, they are talking about stopping trailers that don't have brakes.
 
Another thing to keep in mind, boat trailer brakes need more looking after than what you might be used to.

I dunk in salt water most of the time, so I have to really watch out, but even in fresh water you want to pay attention.
 
Be sure the trailer brakes work and it's worth the effort to practice changing a flat b4 you go for real. Also, unless this is a brand new setup you better check the bearings.
 
Barefoot said:
Your first post said the trailer has disk brakes on both axles.

You'll be fine.

When people say that midsize SUV brakes aren't good enough to stop a heavy load, they are talking about stopping trailers that don't have brakes.
Click to expand...


:iagree: With the good trailer brakes and the fact the T4R stock brakes are pretty strong (until you get really tall/big tires) you'll be fine.

I also totally agree with 4boer, his last comment is great advice!

:cheers:
 
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mcbean7 said:
thanks for the reply charlier180. Just curious how heavy your car trailer is? I've been talking to others with the same boat/trailer. They say boat/trailer/fuel/gear adds up to 6000#.
Click to expand...

My trailer weighs in at about 5,500 lbs depending on what car I am towing.
I also use a weight distributing hitch with sway control.
Be advised that weight distributing hitch setups should not be used with trailers that have surge braking systems.

BTW, be CAREFUL where you position your boat on the trailer and how you load it with items.
Total weight is important but HOW the weight is DISTRIBUTED can be CRITICAL when it comes to trailer stability and control.

I purchased a tongue weight scale and tried experimenting where I loaded my car and other items in the trailer.
Based on how I loaded the trailer, I saw a HUGE difference in tongue weight.

Here is more good information on this subject: http://newcarbuyingguide.com/index.php/news/main/3657/event=view
 
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