Towing report with the V8 4Runner
- Thread starter BigK75
- Start date
v6 4runner tow update
Towed my Roo 183 4600lbs more than 500 miles through Mass Maine and NH with no issues.
Slower going up hills but never felt like I was pushing the engine or tranny too hard. It's like towing a garage due to the wind resistance but it always felt safe.
Get used to getting 11mpg however.
Towed my Roo 183 4600lbs more than 500 miles through Mass Maine and NH with no issues.
Slower going up hills but never felt like I was pushing the engine or tranny too hard. It's like towing a garage due to the wind resistance but it always felt safe.
Get used to getting 11mpg however.
I think CA has laws about trailer weight and brakes.
Even with the best brakes possible on your vehicle you could have a problem. If you stop your vehicle quickly towing a trailer that heavy the trailer will try to pass you. This can cause some severe handling issues that can lead to death for anybody in the vehicle and anybody around you.
The better your vehicle brakes are the quicker you can stop the greater the risk.
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4th Gen V8 4Runner Ltd - Towing - suspension help request
I recently purchased a 2006 Chaparral 246 SSI and am towing it a few miles from storage to the lake in N. GA a couple of times per week. The boat is about 6300 lbs w/ the tandem axle trailer. I am towing it with an 06 4Runner LTD V8 w/ 63k miles on it (and the original shocks).
I am getting about 3 inches or so of sag with the boat on the factory class IV hitch (rated at 7300 lbs).
I have not figured out the tongue weight yet, but don't have any room to move the boat back on the trailer to reduce the tongue weight. The hitch insert is 'flipped up' so the ball is higher than the receiver itself. It is about level, aided by the attitude of tandem axle.
Does anyone have a suspension tip to help reduce the sag? ex. Bilstein HD shocks, an air suspension, etc ?
I recently purchased a 2006 Chaparral 246 SSI and am towing it a few miles from storage to the lake in N. GA a couple of times per week. The boat is about 6300 lbs w/ the tandem axle trailer. I am towing it with an 06 4Runner LTD V8 w/ 63k miles on it (and the original shocks).
I am getting about 3 inches or so of sag with the boat on the factory class IV hitch (rated at 7300 lbs).
I have not figured out the tongue weight yet, but don't have any room to move the boat back on the trailer to reduce the tongue weight. The hitch insert is 'flipped up' so the ball is higher than the receiver itself. It is about level, aided by the attitude of tandem axle.
Does anyone have a suspension tip to help reduce the sag? ex. Bilstein HD shocks, an air suspension, etc ?
Attachments
thomasugenius
New member
I just towed 1500 miles from Austin to Ruidoso, NM pulling a Bigfoot 22ft 5000lbs travel trailer. I've logged approx 10,000+ miles using the Runner as my tug vehicle and it does a great job! I never had to floor the truck, even while climbing the Davis Mountains during this trip. The MPG avg'd 10.1. However, I keep a fairly constant speed of 72MPH on I-10 (the speed limit is 80) and actually got the truck up to 90MPH down a long, rolling hill. I have near zero sway and it only squats in the back approx 1 inch or so, but I use the Equal-i-zer 4 point sway and weight distro set up. I doubt I would pull anything without this hitch. It makes all of the difference in the world. I use the Prodigy brake system which I also like. I'm about to post re my timiming belt, as I only have 52,000 miles on the 2004 V8 runner, but nearly 20% is used for towing, so I'm concerned about the AGE of the timing belt, which I can not find any post on, only miles to replace the TB, which is 90,000. I plan to keep the truck for 3 more years...
RanchoRunner
New member
Hey everyone, new to this board...just got an '06 V8 Ltd 4x4. I have an '11 Rockwood Roo 21SS, that I've towed a couple times with my '07 FJ Cruiser. Roo weighs ~4,800 lbs. empty, so without any water, but with our gear, I figure it's ~5,100 - 5,200 lbs.
Hence, why I bought the t4r. I am moving the TruControl Silver (Hensley Mfg brand) brake controller from the FJ to the 4r. I am using the factory trailer brake jumper harness that plugs into the connector above/behind the driver's kick panel. How difficult could it be????
Brake controller has 4 wires:
1) 12V DC (Battery)
2) Ground
3) Stop Light Signal
4) Trailer Brake Output Voltage
The factory trailer brake jumper harness has 5 wires:
1) Fused Trailer Brake Controller Battery Feed
2) Headlamp Switch to Vehicle Tail Lamps
3) Vehicle Stop Lamp Switch to Brake Controller (Input)
4) Trailer Ground
5) Trailer Electric Brake Feed from Brake Controller (Output)
So I soldered the 4 matching pairs of wires, and coiled up and taped up the 5th wire (#2 on the jumper harness). The lights on the controller look like all is working properly. But then I checked the 7-pin connector -- none of the lighting contacts are receiving any power. I took it to the dealer to have them diagnose the problem. They traced the wiring from under the hood (where all fuses were intact) to the 7-pin, and found nothing wrong. They then unplugged the jumper harness from it's plug, and all the lighting contacts in the 7-pin are now working properly. Charged me $150 for time invested, with no suggestions on how to resolve it! Does anybody have any ideas??? Although I did all the brake controller wiring on the FJ Cruiser myself, it worked flawlessly!
Oh, and BTW, I use a Pro Pride hitch (similar to the Hensley Arrow, but heavier duty), and towing the Roo with the FJ, was passed by 18-wheelers and didn't experience ANY sway whatsoever. Also towed in 40mph crosswinds (had to stop and fold the steps back in, as the wind had blown them open), and although it pushed the entire TV/Trailer as a unit, requiring steering correction, there was absolutely ZERO sway. I will be using the same hitch with the t4r.
(Mr.) Lory
Hence, why I bought the t4r. I am moving the TruControl Silver (Hensley Mfg brand) brake controller from the FJ to the 4r. I am using the factory trailer brake jumper harness that plugs into the connector above/behind the driver's kick panel. How difficult could it be????
Brake controller has 4 wires:
1) 12V DC (Battery)
2) Ground
3) Stop Light Signal
4) Trailer Brake Output Voltage
The factory trailer brake jumper harness has 5 wires:
1) Fused Trailer Brake Controller Battery Feed
2) Headlamp Switch to Vehicle Tail Lamps
3) Vehicle Stop Lamp Switch to Brake Controller (Input)
4) Trailer Ground
5) Trailer Electric Brake Feed from Brake Controller (Output)
So I soldered the 4 matching pairs of wires, and coiled up and taped up the 5th wire (#2 on the jumper harness). The lights on the controller look like all is working properly. But then I checked the 7-pin connector -- none of the lighting contacts are receiving any power. I took it to the dealer to have them diagnose the problem. They traced the wiring from under the hood (where all fuses were intact) to the 7-pin, and found nothing wrong. They then unplugged the jumper harness from it's plug, and all the lighting contacts in the 7-pin are now working properly. Charged me $150 for time invested, with no suggestions on how to resolve it! Does anybody have any ideas??? Although I did all the brake controller wiring on the FJ Cruiser myself, it worked flawlessly!
Oh, and BTW, I use a Pro Pride hitch (similar to the Hensley Arrow, but heavier duty), and towing the Roo with the FJ, was passed by 18-wheelers and didn't experience ANY sway whatsoever. Also towed in 40mph crosswinds (had to stop and fold the steps back in, as the wind had blown them open), and although it pushed the entire TV/Trailer as a unit, requiring steering correction, there was absolutely ZERO sway. I will be using the same hitch with the t4r.
(Mr.) Lory
toytwo
New member
First, your T4R is 4Wd so it has 7000 lb towing capacity. The 2WD is 7300 lb. Don't forget to include the weight any fuel or equipment in the boat. Your best bet is a weight distribution hitch. It's cheaper & easier than suspension changes.
I have a preowned 2005 SR5 4.7L V8 purchased in 2010. I've been pulling a preowned 17' 2009 Casita Spirit Deluxe fiberglass travel trailer. Trailer weight is probably around 3200lbs. Hitch weight is 400-420lbs. I don't use a WDH, only a friction sway bar. The back of the 4Runner is loaded with a couple of plastic bins with hoses, leveling blocks, sewer hose support, misc hose electrical fittings, the 2nd box has a indoor/outdoor carpet folded up in it. I then have a 50 qt cooler, an O'Grill BBQ, 3 folding chairs, 1 folding table and a 60 watt solar panel and a small plastic camping table. I' traveled with my wife and college aged daughter and a small dog.
The hitch weight causes the 4Runner back end to dip 2" but even with all of the above the ride is level. The 4Runner handles the trailer easily. No sway when trucks drive by, handles strong cross winds easily. Maybe this is due to the shorter length, less height and more round corners and edges vs the usual stick trailer that have the aerodynamics of a brick.
We've done two trips from Dallas to Glacier National Park in Montana. Calculating the mileage from the odometer and the gas pumped on the receipt our first trip in 2011 average 14.5mpg and maybe only 14mpg in 2012. I drive around 60mph in OD except on hills. Most of the time shifting to 4 hills is enough on interstate grades but a couple of times 3rd gear is needed to maintain 60 mph. Never floored the accelerator yet to maintain 55-60. 3rd gear has the power. The worse tank gas mileage so far is about 12.5mpg and the best with a tail wind is 16.1. When I drive solo 65-70mph the 4Runner gets 20mpg with AC, 21 without AC. Vehicle now has 67k miles.
The hitch weight causes the 4Runner back end to dip 2" but even with all of the above the ride is level. The 4Runner handles the trailer easily. No sway when trucks drive by, handles strong cross winds easily. Maybe this is due to the shorter length, less height and more round corners and edges vs the usual stick trailer that have the aerodynamics of a brick.
We've done two trips from Dallas to Glacier National Park in Montana. Calculating the mileage from the odometer and the gas pumped on the receipt our first trip in 2011 average 14.5mpg and maybe only 14mpg in 2012. I drive around 60mph in OD except on hills. Most of the time shifting to 4 hills is enough on interstate grades but a couple of times 3rd gear is needed to maintain 60 mph. Never floored the accelerator yet to maintain 55-60. 3rd gear has the power. The worse tank gas mileage so far is about 12.5mpg and the best with a tail wind is 16.1. When I drive solo 65-70mph the 4Runner gets 20mpg with AC, 21 without AC. Vehicle now has 67k miles.
I have been boat hunting...I found the perfect boat but it seems too heavy for my 2004 V8 4WD... I haven't purchased the boat as I am doing some towing research. Boat: 2002 Pursuit 2870 Walkaround, dry weight : 7500 lbs with out trailer
Now what to do? Any thoughts on towing this thing on my 4Runner
Now what to do? Any thoughts on towing this thing on my 4Runner
I wouldn't do any more than turn it around in the driveway with a 4Runner
BlackWorksInc
New member
Tow it with a GMC 2500?
How far do you have to tow it? If it's just a few miles down the street from the boat storage to the boat ramp at around 25mph it would be fine (but not legal, so don't get in an accident). You can tow whatever you want as long as you go slow enough. See the Tundra towing the space shuttle.
Exceeding the tow rating on a highway would be a bad idea.
Exceeding the tow rating on a highway would be a bad idea.
WI_4Runner
New member
No - that's gonna be a triple axle trailer. 7500lbs dry weight may not include motors, and with the other accessories, fuel + batteries etc, that could go north of 10k lbs. You can "pull" it fine on flat ground, but in no way will you be able to safely stop or control that load.
