Towing with a 4th gen V6. Brake controller, what else?

xxaarraa

New member
Have a 4th gen V6 with tow package. Just bought an enclosed 7x14 trailer, dual axle, with electric brakes. I bought, and installed the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 brake controller already.

What else do I need to keep in mind? Does the V6 tow package come with a tranny cooler? I don't think it does, and so will the tranny be OK? I am told the trailer weighs 3100 lbs unloaded, and when loaded with my bikes and gear, will be close to 4500 lbs.

Will be towing this bad boy.

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I tow a pair of Harleys. Open trailer, roughly 2k# total weight. My 2007 v8 laughs up hills.


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Suggest you replace the V6 hitch with an after market hitch that bolts to the frame. Also suggest adding a weight distribution hitch for sway control and add an after market tranny cooler. Then if you are towing in the mountain passes install a scan guage to monitor the auto tranny temp. That's what I did with my V6 towing a small toy hauler weighing around 5K lbs loaded.


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I don't think the v6 came with a trans cooler regardless if it had the tow package or not (at least mine doesn't have one and it also has the tow package). First and foremost, plan to go slow. Honestly, I wouldn't go over 60-65 mph with a heavy load like that behind a 4runner. I also use the manual shifting when taking off and slowing down. How you load the trailer can have a big effect on how a trailer and tow vehicle handle and interact with each other. A tongue pull trailer should have about 10-15% total weight as tongue weight.

I've pulled this setup more than a few times and my 4runner does good.

0B9C8DCA-A781-4002-A899-DAFE54043F2C_zpsvht0cxu0.jpg~original
 
I tow a pair of Harleys. Open trailer, roughly 2k# total weight. My 2007 v8 laughs up hills.


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Completely unrelated to my question, but thanks.

I have towed Ducatis and Aprilias on an open Kendon trailer for years and years.
 
Suggest you replace the V6 hitch with an after market hitch that bolts to the frame. Also suggest adding a weight distribution hitch for sway control and add an after market tranny cooler. Then if you are towing in the mountain passes install a scan guage to monitor the auto tranny temp. That's what I did with my V6 towing a small toy hauler weighing around 5K lbs loaded.


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I don't want to be replacing the hitch, but great tip on the scanguage to keep an eye on tranny temp. I will do that, thanks.

I don't think the v6 came with a trans cooler regardless if it had the tow package or not (at least mine doesn't have one and it also has the tow package). First and foremost, plan to go slow. Honestly, I wouldn't go over 60-65 mph with a heavy load like that behind a 4runner. I also use the manual shifting when taking off and slowing down. How you load the trailer can have a big effect on how a trailer and tow vehicle handle and interact with each other. A tongue pull trailer should have about 10-15% total weight as tongue weight.

I've pulled this setup more than a few times and my 4runner does good.

Can you say a bit more about starting in lower gears? What does that do?
 
Completely unrelated to my question, but thanks.



I have towed Ducatis and Aprilias on an open Kendon trailer for years and years.



Funny. I mistook this for a different towing post and had wondered where my post had gone. Sorry for the non-sequitur.


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Yes an aftermarket trans cooler is advisable also as the temps will still get up there.
Scan gauge also. I also suggest putting on a true tow hitch on instead of the load bearing thing the v6 comes with.
I have yet to use a weight distribution set up on mine and have gone 8k+.
 
Can you say a bit more about starting in lower gears? What does that do?

Basically, by manually upshifting you can get the engine more so in its powerband, which will be easier on the transmission, engine, and the rest of the drivetrain. Since we don't have a tow/haul mode, we have to do it manually.

One other thing you might want to look into is a set of airbags.
 
Suggest you replace the V6 hitch with an after market hitch that bolts to the frame. Also suggest adding a weight distribution hitch for sway control and add an after market tranny cooler. Then if you are towing in the mountain passes install a scan guage to monitor the auto tranny temp. That's what I did with my V6 towing a small toy hauler weighing around 5K lbs loaded.


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Why would you advise replacing the oem receiver? I was under the impression it is bolted the the cross bar between each side of the frame. It's my opinion that's a superior mounting system compared to the four m10x45(or there about, I know they were small) bolts holding my aftermarket receiver to each frame rail.
k7t80Cc.jpg

How is this not VASTLY stronger? There's no way that thing is coming off the frame.

To OP: I towed a 94 Ford Ranger on a smaller tandem axle car hauler trailer(total weight about...4500lb) from ND to NC, about 1300 miles. Forget using overdrive, it'll be shifting in and out constantly which is hard on your transmission. Drop it into 4 and just go. I think I got about 12mpg doing 60-70mph. Didn't have any issue with trans fluid temps, and I don't have an aftermarket cooler.

EDIT: I want to note that all the 4th gen 4Runners have a trans fluid cooler, it's built into the radiator. So your tranny fluid will be roughly the same temp as your engine coolant.
 
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Why would you advise replacing the oem receiver? I was under the impression it is bolted the the cross bar between each side of the frame. It's my opinion that's a superior mounting system compared to the four m10x45(or there about, I know they were small) bolts holding my aftermarket receiver to each frame rail.
k7t80Cc.jpg

How is this not VASTLY stronger? There's no way that thing is coming off the frame.

EDIT: I want to note that all the 4th gen 4Runners have a trans fluid cooler, it's built into the radiator. So your tranny fluid will be roughly the same temp as your engine coolant.

On the v6, that wanna be hitch set up is a load bearing not towing tongue weight hitch. The v8s came with a true tow package hitch designed for towing/pulling weight. That being said, they also have an external trans cooler for towing weight as they know the trans temps will be going up.

EDIT... measure the thickness that thing is mounted to, then compare to a aftermarket class 3+ hitch thickness.
 
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I don't wanna hijack his thread too much, but to me there's no way you're gonna bend or break that bumper support/crossframe without being in a serious crash. If I were towing more often I would feel the OEM receiver would be much safer. Even in a crash, that receiver is gonna stay on. I can't say I trust my aftermarket receiver to stay put with it's tiny bolts in the event of a crash.

On trans fluid coolers, it should be noted though when you go adding an aftermarket one you should really have a thermostat in the system as having fluid too cold is also bad for the transmission. So when your not towing, your fluid is going to stay cooler than spec. The transmission valves are set to work optimal with fluid at a certain viscosity, which is obtained from temperature. Now if you add the aftermarket cooler in-line before the radiator, so you cool the fluid then it gets warmed(or cooled more) by the radiator so it comes out at the proper temperature then sure. I can get on board with that. I just wanna make sure people aren't sticking a aftermarket cooler in place of the OEM system and having transmission life reduced.

OP Make sure you followed the instructions properly on that brake controller for mounting. You can't have it tilted too much or you mess with it's ability to sense braking momentum.
 
Just by looking at the photo posted, I do believe I see 6 bolt holding that hitch on also.
If memory serves me right, they are smaller and not quite up to grade bolts either.
 
Why would you advise replacing the oem receiver? I was under the impression it is bolted the the cross bar between each side of the frame. It's my opinion that's a superior mounting system compared to the four m10x45(or there about, I know they were small) bolts holding my aftermarket receiver to each frame rail.
k7t80Cc.jpg

How is this not VASTLY stronger? There's no way that thing is coming off the frame.

To OP: I towed a 94 Ford Ranger on a smaller tandem axle car hauler trailer(total weight about...4500lb) from ND to NC, about 1300 miles. Forget using overdrive, it'll be shifting in and out constantly which is hard on your transmission. Drop it into 4 and just go. I think I got about 12mpg doing 60-70mph. Didn't have any issue with trans fluid temps, and I don't have an aftermarket cooler.

EDIT: I want to note that all the 4th gen 4Runners have a trans fluid cooler, it's built into the radiator. So your tranny fluid will be roughly the same temp as your engine coolant.



The V8 and after market hitch will allow you to use a weight distribution hitch that will level the tow vehicle as more tongue weight is applied to the hitch. This will distribute the weight to the front tires for better vehicle control. Plus if you add the sway bars this will provide sway control. The V6 hitch is not intended for a weight distribution usage.


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Very good tip about leaving it in 4th gear. I'm lifted and running 34 inch tires and NOT regeared so my truck shifts down pretty often on the highway even when driving everyday. With a honking trailer in the back, I'll be sure to leave it in manual / 4 all the time.

Stock gearing and 34s aren't as bad as you guys are probably thinking. I still get 16 mpg and except for the annoying kick downs on the highway, it's very livable.

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Why would you advise replacing the oem receiver? I was under the impression it is bolted the the cross bar between each side of the frame. It's my opinion that's a superior mounting system compared to the four m10x45(or there about, I know they were small) bolts holding my aftermarket receiver to each frame rail.
k7t80Cc.jpg

How is this not VASTLY stronger? There's no way that thing is coming off the frame.

To OP: I towed a 94 Ford Ranger on a smaller tandem axle car hauler trailer(total weight about...4500lb) from ND to NC, about 1300 miles. Forget using overdrive, it'll be shifting in and out constantly which is hard on your transmission. Drop it into 4 and just go. I think I got about 12mpg doing 60-70mph. Didn't have any issue with trans fluid temps, and I don't have an aftermarket cooler.

EDIT: I want to note that all the 4th gen 4Runners have a trans fluid cooler, it's built into the radiator. So your tranny fluid will be roughly the same temp as your engine coolant.

The pic you posted is a Lexus system, but somewhat similar to the 4Runner. In either case, it is no way as strong as a properly mounted frame hitch. The cross member you mention is made of thinner material than a frame hitch, and is much more libel to twist if too much tongue weight is applied. The OP mentions that the trailer he is looking at will weigh in excess of 4500 lbs loaded, which is only 500 lbs under the max rating for that style hitch. And, depending on how the trailer load is balanced, the tongue weight may very well exceed the 500 lb limit for it. Also, when you get close to the max load weight, the rear suspension will sag, and this will cause the front end to rise and can cause light steering control. The best way to control how the heavier loads are carried by the tow vehicle, is to use a weight distribution towing system. The standard V6 hitch is NOT rated for any weight distribution system, so a frame mounted hitch is necessary to use one.

As for your comment on the internal radiator trans cooler, the trans temp can, under towing situations, easily exceed 250-300 degrees. Since the normal operating temp for an engine cooling system is 195-225 degrees, and the standard radiator cooler consists of one thin tube coiled in side the end cap of the radiator, this type of system will not be able to bring the trans fluid temp down to the engine coolant level under high load conditions. This is why, with the higher tow ratings for the V8 system, an external auxiliary cooler is mandated. And why it is strongly recommended for the V6 system if one intends to tow at or near the max V6 ratings for any period of time. And, if one was to follow the recommendations to not tow in overdrive, then with the torque converter not in a 'locked' mode, it will also generate much higher trans temps than normal.

The suggestions given here are meant to help one get the best use from their vehicle while lessening the possibility of damaging it. Most of these people have years of experience, and are giving good, knowledgeable advise. Don't just dismiss it off hand, they are trying to help.
 
One more thing I forgot to add is that I currently don't have a trans temp gauge (yet) but the first thing I would do at every stop is get out and shoot the trans in several places with a IR temp gun. The hottest I seen it was 195° and that was towing through the mountains in AZ in 95° heat. Most of the time it was around 180°.

Having said that, A way of monitoring trans temp is definitely on my to-do list as well as an external trans cooler. If I was going to tow a lot, I would probably get a full size pickup or at least re-gear the diffs.
 

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