Toytec/Eibach Complete Front Coilovers

At risk of sounding like a newb (i am) what do you mean you never touched the bump stops? You didn't have a lot of travel, flex or play when hitting bumps?

No, problem. I was saying that the springs were stiff enough that the suspension could never fully compress even in the most extreme conditions. Not much travel and a harsh ride.
 
No they do not correct any alignment issue they just give you a uniball to correct that weird angle you OE ballpoint is at
Which arms are you referring to? All the uniball arms I've seen ARE designed for alignment correction, and have some positive caster built into them.

I was reading on the toytech site that the billsteins max height is 2.5 "and you should keep it at it's lowest setting paired with eiboch choils as to prevent damage etc etc"
2 things here.
1- Most Bilstein adjustable shocks/struts/coilovers for our rigs give a max of 2.5" lift WITH STOCK COILS.
2- When using a 3" lift coil, you should leave the perch at the lowest, because lifting our rigs over 3" does more damage than good.
As you've read, guys have gone over 3" without any adverse affects- that they know of. It's still not recommended.
If you have a 3" lift spring, and move the perch up over "stock" height, your ride will likely be pretty stiff. Adding armor/steel winch cable might bring you down under 3" lift on the lowest setting, and at that point, I wouldn't have a problem with going to the next step up.
Have fun [emoji1598]
 
Which arms are you referring to? All the uniball arms I've seen ARE designed for alignment correction, and have some positive caster built into them.


2 things here.
1- Most Bilstein adjustable shocks/struts/coilovers for our rigs give a max of 2.5" lift WITH STOCK COILS.
2- When using a 3" lift coil, you should leave the perch at the lowest, because lifting our rigs over 3" does more damage than good.
As you've read, guys have gone over 3" without any adverse affects- that they know of. It's still not recommended.
If you have a 3" lift spring, and move the perch up over "stock" height, your ride will likely be pretty stiff. Adding armor/steel winch cable might bring you down under 3" lift on the lowest setting, and at that point, I wouldn't have a problem with going to the next step up.
Have fun [emoji1598]

Wow this is helpful. So if i'm understanding you correctly..I could get a 3" lift coil but leave the bill steins at its lowest setting (0 lift?) and still be sitting at 3" lift? This would save me some $$$..so i'm hoping it's true!

Since you seem to be pretty knowledgeable...would you go for the toytec / eibach 3" lift or combine steins w/ other 3" coils?
 
Which arms are you referring to? All the uniball arms I've seen ARE designed for alignment correction, and have some positive caster built into
Have fun [emoji1598]


No. All the arms I've installed and I have the all pros they don't fix crap for caster.
I'd never installed a set of all pro arms and they were on group but so it worth a shot but no go.
The 5th gen total chaos have misalignment spacers that you can mess with to get caster you want/need but for 3rd gens
Camburg, all pro and total chaos all advertise it but my specs were exactly the same and did not fix the fact that my caster cam was maxed out and that's what I wanted and why I bought them
The uniball definitely helped with ride but that's it
Comparing the two arms with my stock ones proved that they are the same. Just regular old tubular arms with a uniball and poly bushings.
 
This video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made might help you out:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yXjioXyZa_M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I'd just like to take a moment to thank Tim for these videos. I'm going to replace my front struts, lower ball joints and UCA's tomorrow. I am a complete newb, and so I don't know what I would do without em. Your attention to detail is SUPER helpful as well. Thank you!!
 
Get the SPC UCAs
And the toytech kit is nice
I have it
I also have the all pro UCAs but like the total chaos ones they are just a regular uniball upper control arm
Nothing special
SPC actually can correct your camber when you lift the truck so that your alignment cams aren't maxed out.



Hey do you know if these toytech / eibachs come lifted or if you have to adjust them?
 
I'd just like to take a moment to thank Tim for these videos. I'm going to replace my front struts, lower ball joints and UCA's tomorrow. I am a complete newb, and so I don't know what I would do without em. Your attention to detail is SUPER helpful as well. Thank you!!

You're welcome Brother. Sean and I love hearing people are making good use of our videos. Helping people out is the main reason we put all the time into these videos.
 
I went with the Toytec/Eibach kit your referring to for a few reasons. 1 it was a little cheaper then the Ultimate or Boss kit, 2 it came with all new top hat hardware and mine was rusty/crummy looking, 3 its pre assembled so no need for a coil compressor if you don't have one and I've known a few people who had them and really enjoyed the kit. I've had nothing but good things to say about the lift so far, it offroads well and the ride is better than stock. You will most definitely get your 3" lol, I have no aftermarket bumpers only sliders and I'm yielding right at 4.5". But it will put some stress on the CVs. I'm in need of new inner boots now and I'm just gonna replace both axles to remedy the issue. I'm also wheeling with 35s so that doesn't help with front end stress haha.
 

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Camburg included in the regular old uniball upper control arms nothing special
I've installed all 4 and like I said I own the all pros.
But the SPC are the only ones that give you more alignment adjustment.
The differences in the toytec coilovers and regular billies are that they are coilovers and have more adjustability to get the perfect stance you want not just three perches.
Also the strut mounts are different and give you more down travel rather than just a strut plate.

Tundra Billys have 5 perches.
 
This video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made might help you out:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yXjioXyZa_M" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Hey Tim.. you got a part number for the long John pullers you used to press out that ball joint bolt? Spent 8 hours hammering and ubering to autozone 3 separate times to get yet another tool that wouldn't work
 
Hey Tim.. you got a part number for the long John pullers you used to press out that ball joint bolt? Spent 8 hours hammering and ubering to autozone 3 separate times to get yet another tool that wouldn't work &#55357;&#56883;

I take it you're talking about the lower balljoint. The pullers I use come from a kit from OTC. Here's a link to the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...puller+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41apsehGOiL&ref=plSrch

If you're talking about the upper balljoint, send me a message because I pieced together that kit with a balljoint kit and various adapters.
 
I take it you're talking about the lower balljoint. The pullers I use come from a kit from OTC. Here's a link to the kit I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...puller+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41apsehGOiL&ref=plSrch

If you're talking about the upper balljoint, send me a message because I pieced together that kit with a balljoint kit and various adapters.



Sent you a PM. I'm actually talking about the upper ball joint, but I'm not even at the C clamp press step yet. I absolutely can't get the upper ball joint bolt out of the upper control arm after removing castle nut. It looks like you used a long John arm puller in your video?
 

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