Toytec Lift Solo Installation Help

afmatt

afmatt

New member
About to tackle installing a lift kit solo. If anyone can give me tips or answer these questions for me before I get stuck with everything disassembled it would be really great.

Ive watched speedys video on youtube about 5-6 times over and I think I've got a pretty solid idea of how to do it.

I just had a few questions as the lift I have differs from the one he is installing:

Do I need to adjust the toytec coilovers, I only want about 2.5" of lift. Does anyone know what they come preset at?
Also, I asked toytec to send me the 600lb but I believe they sent me the 650lb. I won't have an additional 200lbs of front weight until I get an ARB bumper, what do?


Where do these go?


Does the square metal piece attached to the shock stay on or is it supposed to come off?


Also I have the diff drop kit, I read that this is optional to be installed but I want to install it to relieve stress. Should I or not?

I've searched around and read dozens of threads but if anyone has any other helpful resources or anything it is greatly appreciated before I mess something up.
 
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Toytec's website says the front comes preset at 2.5".... Mine was slightly higher than that

They look just like mine, which was a 600 lbs coil... It was printed on the coil itself

You need the adapter on the shock to bolt in the upper shock mounts on the body.. They're a ***** to get tightened though... I don't think mine was tightened enough as it rattles slightly over bumps... Need to get back in there and tighten it down good
 
In the middle picture those are spanner wrenches, which are used to adjust the preload on the coil springs.
 
Those two things are to adjust the collars on the coil over.

I just did my rear shocks a couple days ago, Remove the shock from the bracket and use a screw driver to hold it in place while you tighten. Make sure you have the bracket sitting the right direction and make sure you can remove the screw driver when your done tightening. Good luck


Oh almost forgot, buy or borrow a sawsall because your going to need it
 
4RunnerKyle said:
Toytec's website says the front comes preset at 2.5".... Mine was slightly higher than that

They look just like mine, which was a 600 lbs coil... It was printed on the coil itself

You need the adapter on the shock to bolt in the upper shock mounts on the body.. They're a ***** to get tightened though... I don't think mine was tightened enough as it rattles slightly over bumps... Need to get back in there and tighten it down good
Click to expand...

turbo8 said:
In the middle picture those are spanner wrenches, which are used to adjust the preload on the coil springs.
Click to expand...

Chandlerdoom said:
Those two things are to adjust the collars on the coil over.

I just did my rear shocks a couple days ago, Remove the shock from the bracket and use a screw driver to hold it in place while you tighten. Make sure you have the bracket sitting the right direction and make sure you can remove the screw driver when your done tightening. Good luck


Oh almost forgot, buy or borrow a sawsall because your going to need it
Click to expand...

Thankyou guys for the responses for real. I'll post pictures when I'm finished.

I was trying to figure out where on earth they go because they are differently shaped but glad to know what they do now.

I know I am going to torque the top bolt to 14 ft/lbs. But Is that adapter on the shocks supposed to be able to move up and down? Or should I tighten it to where it can't move? Which direction should the bracket face?
 
Mine were preset at close to 2.5 inches. I had to adjust them up to get to 3 inches so you should be fine. You may just have to do slight adjustments to get drivers and passengers side level. The drop kit is easy to install and will relieve some stress on the front end. Just follow the instructions it came with.
Also a trick is to use your bottle jack upside down in your fender well to push your UCAs down to line up the lower shock mount.
 
afmatt said:
Thankyou guys for the responses for real. I'll post pictures when I'm finished.

I was trying to figure out where on earth they go because they are differently shaped but glad to know what they do now.

I know I am going to torque the top bolt to 14 ft/lbs. But Is that adapter on the shocks supposed to be able to move up and down? Or should I tighten it to where it can't move? Which direction should the bracket face?
Click to expand...

With the bracket on the shock, put the lower part on (no need to bolt it down) and compress the shock and put the stud into the hole. Rotate it until it sits flush, then mark it.

Im pretty sure it took more than 14lbs just to get the nut halfway down the stud, I cranked that ***** down as much as possible, So unless someone wants to correct me; it will rattle if you do not have it tightened down all the way.
 
Have no fear tackling this on your own. I installed mine in an evening with limited experience.

1. For the rear shock adapter mount i purchased a swivel head ratchet and a 24 mm deep socket (check nut size). This seemed the only way to reach the installed mount.

2. Watch rear brake line when dropping rear axle

3. Make sure rear coils are on the right side.

4. A large pry bar (4') helped rear coil install.

Good luck!
 
Okay guys I got the front installed in 6 hours :shocked: It looks sexy, but the front is higher than the back. Also I have yet to install the front diff drop kit.

I went to start the back and decided to postpone the rest until tomorrow. The bolt at the top of the rear shock (inside that pocket-area) would not budge. I tried a strap wrench and turning the shock and using pliers, vice grips, and it would not budge, I soaked everything in PB Blaster and I am literally resorting to just grinding the shock off.

Any advice before I go and literally saw the top of the shock off to get that bolt out?
 
two days??! I drove mine about 2 miles and am going back tomorrow first thing. im going to just grind the top straight off I wonder whos bright idea it was to put such a hard to access bolt up there was.

anything else I should do after im finished and get an alignment??
 
Depending on the age of the old shocks you might be able to bend them back and forth until you snap the bolt. Seems easier the trying to get a sawsall in there. If you haven't done so go out and soak any bolt you think you might touch with PB blaster.

Use good jack stands, chock the wheels and post pics when your done.
 
In reply to your last question check the tension on your ebrake cable and rear rake line. Depending on how much lift you have for the rear it could be pulled tight and need extended
 
afmatt said:
two days??! I drove mine about 2 miles and am going back tomorrow first thing. im going to just grind the top straight off I wonder whos bright idea it was to put such a hard to access bolt up there was.

anything else I should do after im finished and get an alignment??
Click to expand...

On every 3rd gen that i have worked on i have had to take a channel lock pliers crush the upper shock cover and get the biggest ratchet up there I could and just man mode it and twist and break off the bolt. Each one has been so rusty that I would have never come off if I didnt either break it or cut it (i have no idea how you would get a saw up there tho...). It takes a lot of force in some cases but is definitely doable i know that i am not that strong lol.
 
Okay guy's here is an update:

qb0ni2r.jpg


Got the fronts on flawlessly as I said yesterday, and today I got the backs on. I grinded straight through the top of the shocks, unfortunately in the process of trying to snap it off the both stock shocks leaked shit everywhere, but I cleaned it up.

The bilstein shocks are on opposite ways, the one on the drivers side boot is at the top, and on the passenger side the boot is at the bottom. I read the bilstein shocks don't make a difference which way they go but is this okay?

Also, I went to install the differential drop kit and it seems the rear skid plate needs some cutting in order to make it fit, so I'm going to put it on tomorrow.

Overall the 4runner is sitting about 2.5"-3" higher it's really good looking I just need to finish up.
 
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