Trail rig? What to do???

[slowpoke99]

This is my biggest beef with the XJ. There's no doubt that they're super capable, but I don't know anybody that's wheeled very long or very hard with an XJ and isn't looking for something to swap their parts to because they've beat the unibody to snot.

They make a great mild wheeler. But if the OP thinks he even might want to get into serious crawling, I'd advise avoiding the XJ. Too much trouble for what it is.

I couldn't agree more! They're very capable rigs if built right. I've helped a couple of buddies build theirs. The thing is that a lot of people think because they're already setup with solid front axles that they're pretty much "gas and go". Totally not the case. The stock axles are garbage! Good luck even trying to wheel hard on 33's without popping an axle. Both xj's that I took part in building were gutted of the stocks for beefier Dana axles. Plus the unibody makes it pretty difficult to build/mount bumpers and sliders without an actual chassis to weld to. Makes no sense to me to choose a Cherokee over a 4runner if given the option.

 

[T4R2014]

Keep the 3rd Gen nice and get a dedicated vehicle for the dirty work. There is no point in starting with a relatively clean vehicle to beat and and hack apart. You can buy an old truck with dents and scrapes already and avoid the headache of worrying about damage. There are plenty of old Toyota's, Nissan's, Isuzu's and Cherokee's that you can pick up for dirt cheap. Rip out the carpet, get some decent tires, small lift, and a rear locker and you can do a lot without worry.

 

[Andy in Pa]

This is my biggest beef with the XJ. There's no doubt that they're super capable, but I don't know anybody that's wheeled very long or very hard with an XJ and isn't looking for something to swap their parts to because they've beat the unibody to snot.

They make a great mild wheeler. But if the OP thinks he even might want to get into serious crawling, I'd advise avoiding the XJ. Too much trouble for what it is.

I am one of the few, but mine was caged/armored from the start. Had it since 2001. I cut the back off in 2008 and rebuilt the roll cage again. It is a supremely capable rig that has run every hard trail at our local park, but it has a bunch of extra steel welded in to keep the unibody well supported. This is the reason I own a T4r now. Didnt want to go through that kind of build again. XJs are unbelieveably capable, and are perfect for that cheap, "just getting into wheeling" kind of build though.

 

[judoant]

I think I need to rework the front end also. I have 205k now and replaced the ball joints once a few years ago. I have no idea how many miles I had then but if I had to guess I would say it was around 120k.

I think it would be cheap insurance to do them again? Should I also do the upper control arm balls and outer tie rod ends also? I do not think they have ever been done but appear to be in decent shape. If so that kinds sucks since I just had an alignment last week, but better safe then sorry out on the trail.

Should all be replaced with OEM or if I plan to get a lift in the next year or so are there better after market options?

 

[tre9er]

I'd go OEM on those parts, unless you want aftermarket UCAs, which while way more expensive, have UBJs already pressed in, and will give you more wheel clearance at stuff.

I'd go ahead and do the LBJs again if it were me. I'm doing mine at 120k for the first time, so you've put that many miles on them. Check rack bushings, sway bushings and end links, etc, too. Some guys don't run a front sway, especially if they wheel a good bit. Most report it's not a huge difference on-road, unless you do a lot of high speed twisty roads.

Also, either get a re-boot kit for the CVs or prepare to stretch and reclamp them after the lift. The boots will start to pull back and eventually tear if they are stock CVs with all those miles on them.

 

[judoant]

I'd go OEM on those parts, unless you want aftermarket UCAs, which while way more expensive, have UBJs already pressed in, and will give you more wheel clearance at stuff.

I'd go ahead and do the LBJs again if it were me. I'm doing mine at 120k for the first time, so you've put that many miles on them. Check rack bushings, sway bushings and end links, etc, too. Some guys don't run a front sway, especially if they wheel a good bit. Most report it's not a huge difference on-road, unless you do a lot of high speed twisty roads.

Also, either get a re-boot kit for the CVs or prepare to stretch and reclamp them after the lift. The boots will start to pull back and eventually tear if they are stock CVs with all those miles on them.

The CV's are both new in the last year.

So do UCA balls and tie rod ends also or no? I don't think I going to replace the UCA's yet when balls are only $35.

 

[tre9er]

The UBJs are a PITA to do, is the only reason I mentioned it, that and if you lift and stuff bigger tires in there, you'll rub the OEM UCAs, but you can also run wheel spacers to combat that.

At your mileage, I'd want to do UBJs and tie rod ends, personally. Hell, I want to do them now, just don't want to do the work or spend the money

 

[judoant]

Is there any flex put on the UCA balls? I just wonder if there is risk of them breaking off road and if so are you shut down until they get replaced? Definetly ordering LBJ's and end links.

 

[tre9er]

I mean, if you're cool with replacing the spindle and UCA, you could probably strap them together if the UBJ took a crap. Mechanically you can hold it all together to get home, just a matter of what get's effed up during the ride.

 

[atalarico]

Hopefully my experience over the last few years can give you another example. My 97 Limited is my daily driver, and I've been working on light mods for the last few years of having it. She has a 3" lift with Bilstein 5125 w/ Tundra springs, 5100, and OME rear springs. Otherwise I still have my pre-lift 265/75/16's Yoko Geolanders, and I'm still not sure if I want 33s because of what I hear sounds like pretty big tradeoffs for highway driving. I'm also working with a metal smith friend to install a hidden winch up front with some fog lights because it only took one $550 offroad towing charge for me to rationalize that!

The type of wheeling I enjoy most is on trails and roads that non-lifted SUVs and trucks would have a harder time navigating, and they are roads that get me and my friends to secluded and remote dispersed camping or trailheads in the high country of Colorado. I don't wheel for the sake of wheeling, I wheel as a means to get somewhere.

That said, I have *felt* over my head on exactly two trails before, and it is *extremely* unnerving hearing things creak and moan like they're about to snap. Now, whether or not I was *ACTUALLY* over my head and over the capabilities of my truck is a different story. However, that doesn't help the paranoid thoughts of "how the f@#% am I going to get out of here/to work this week if something breaks right now" and "mother of god! It took me how many hours to reboot those damn CVs and now it sounds like they're just going to snap!?" came to mind.

I've really contemplated exactly what you are contemplating, but I really don't have the means to have a second car. Even if I did, I honestly wouldn't really build up a dedicated rig. Wheeling is fun and all, but I just don't do it enough to justify it. I also know myself well enough to know that I prefer more physical activity like climbing and mountaineering when I'm in the high country. It's a personal preference, and I certainly don't hate on people who just wheel.

I really think that you can have a lightly modded daily driver that will be really capable of everything but the most extreme wheeling. These trucks are one of the most capable off road vehicles bone stock! They just get better and better with a lift, good rubber, and a winch!

Have fun!

 

[judoant]

So I have reached the next point in my upgrade path. I have the savage full belly skids in place and the sliders on the way. What should be next? Lift, bumpers & winch, rear locker?

All have pros and cons. I have a 99 with OME 906 on the rear so I kind of feel like the lift can wait till I'm ready to stuff some bigger tires in there since I just bought my Duratracks.

The first 2 times out on the trail I banged the crap out of my trailer hitch so I kind of like the rear bumper next to get it tucked up better but it is not really hurting anything. I also banged the front bumper up a little so I would like to add that also.

Having said that a 2-3" lift might alleviate both those issue but I dont want to drive around for 3-4 years all jacked up with little tires.

A locker will get me further down the trail easier but installing the factory e-locker seems like quite the project and I dont want to go harder places further beating up my factory parts.

 

[TheArkMaster]

Looks like you've decided on your 3rd gen and i just want to chime in. I have a 2000 t4r. Front and rear bumper. Sliders, no skids, but I wheel the piss out of it every weekend. The only time it's failed on me is when I failed on it first, overlooking something I knew would get to be done. It's a good choice and everybody I wheel with is shocked when I keep up/outwheel some of them. If a year down the road you want a trail rig, like Kevin said, a 80s yota is good, or if you're willing to pork out the dough, SAS your runner. Either way you'll be happy.

 

[KidVermicious]

So I have reached the next point in my upgrade path. I have the savage full belly skids in place and the sliders on the way. What should be next? Lift, bumpers & winch, rear locker?

All have pros and cons. I have a 99 with OME 906 on the rear so I kind of feel like the lift can wait till I'm ready to stuff some bigger tires in there since I just bought my Duratracks.

The first 2 times out on the trail I banged the crap out of my trailer hitch so I kind of like the rear bumper next to get it tucked up better but it is not really hurting anything. I also banged the front bumper up a little so I would like to add that also.

Having said that a 2-3" lift might alleviate both those issue but I dont want to drive around for 3-4 years all jacked up with little tires.

A locker will get me further down the trail easier but installing the factory e-locker seems like quite the project and I dont want to go harder places further beating up my factory parts.

Bumpers and a winch. You'll have the full suite of basic armor and the ability to get yourself out of a bind.

When you're ready for a locker, get a Spartan or Aussie. You don't need a selectable locker in the rear, and you don't need the strength of a full carrier like a Detroit. But a lunchbox runs $250-$300 and requires no fabrication or special skills to install.