Tranny problems... any help would be appreciated!

Swimmerboy2112 said:
Nope it is not necessary.

About the flywheel, only a machine shop will be able to tell you if it is worth having yours resurfaced or if it would be better to purchase a new one.

And no need to apologize for the questions, that's what this forum is for.
Click to expand...

I dont like down time so I might just fork out the extra for the new one and keep the old for a spare if its salvageable.

Thanks for all your help "Swimmerboy"

Im looking at close to a $500 dollar bill minus seals and fluid.

Ive heard not to mess with flushing tranny fluid and if anything just replace the filter... it that for just autos or manuals as well?

so if i have things right im going to have to replace the clutch, while im in there im going to do the flywheel, master and slave cylinder (because why not...) rear main seal and perhaps tranny filter.

parts list being:
HD clutch
flywheel
master cylinder
slave cylinder
RVT ultra black (better oil resistance)
rear main seal?
tranny filter?
 
no filter on a manual.

it wouldn't be a bad idea to drain the gear oil and replace it, just so you know its been done.
 
1stGenYoda said:
I dont like down time so I might just fork out the extra for the new one and keep the old for a spare if its salvageable.

Thanks for all your help "Swimmerboy"

Im looking at close to a $500 dollar bill minus seals and fluid.

Ive heard not to mess with flushing tranny fluid and if anything just replace the filter... it that for just autos or manuals as well?

so if i have things right im going to have to replace the clutch, while im in there im going to do the flywheel, master and slave cylinder (because why not...) rear main seal and perhaps tranny filter.

parts list being:
HD clutch
flywheel
master cylinder
slave cylinder
RVT ultra black (better oil resistance)
rear main seal?
tranny filter?
Click to expand...

A manual trans is much more simple than an automatic in many ways including the fluid change! all you need to do is a simple drain and fill. MAKE SURE YOU OPEN THE FILL PLUG FIRST. Otherwise if it's stuck closed you will be sitting there with a drain hole/no fluid and a fill hole that won't open...

GL-4 NOT GL-5 is your friend in the manual transmission! I like Redline MT-90.

While you're at it i'd replace the fluid in the diffs and t-case too, that is also a simple process.

They are all filled the same, close up the drain plug and pump in fluid until it starts coming out of the fill hole.

GL-5 is ok for the t-case and diffs.

You would be wise to inspect the rear main seal at this time because it will now be easily accessible.

Maybe it's just my overworked brain missing something, but what's the need for the RTV?

Any more questions feel free to ask away.
 
Swimmerboy2112 said:
Maybe it's just my overworked brain missing something, but what's the need for the RTV?
Click to expand...

Im just flying my the seams of my pants here haha, I didnt know if I would need it for the main rear seal, im already going to be using it on my oil pan when I clean that out and valve cover( im replacing the front gaskets because of an oil leak)
 
1stGenYoda said:
Im just flying my the seams of my pants here haha, I didnt know if I would need it for the main rear seal, im already going to be using it on my oil pan when I clean that out and valve cover( im replacing the front gaskets because of an oil leak)
Click to expand...

Ah okay gotcha, carry on. :tea:
 
Invest in a 3' (yes, foot) extension and a swivel socket. Really helps to get the top two transmission bolts.
 
Last edited:
Hyde802 said:
Invest in a 3' (yes, foot) extension and a swivel socket. Really helps to get the top two transmission bolts.
Click to expand...

HAHA thats a serious extension!


Is there going to any special tools needed for this job?
and does any one know what the marlin crawler HD clutch and fly wheel comes with?
haha newb questions but does it come with the whole shabang, meaning throwout bearing, pressure plate, pilot bushing??
 
Hyde802 said:
Invest in a 3' (yes, foot) extension and a swivel socket. Really helps to get the top two transmission bolts.
Click to expand...

I'll second that. I have a 3/8 version from Snap-On and it's really helped me on a number of difficult jobs(ie no access). I just make sure to have 3 or swivel bits on hand, as I usually break one (or two) in the process.
regards
 
Ive ran into a problem, the release bearing (next to the fork) is different than the one I got in my marlin crawler kit... the bearing I took out has four metal "clips" that are bent over the housing, I dont know how to change them out because its different than I have seen, any ideas? I will post up pictures on my break
 
So here are the pictures











The first 3 are of the old bearing and the housing, and the last two are of the new bearing, do I need a different and new housing?
 
what does the back side of the new one look like?
often times they will come as a complete unit.

if not, you have to pressed the bearing off the other one, and replace it.

set the bearing on a vice, so just the bearing is touching the jaws, then get something that just fits that inner ring, and tap the bearing holder out.


but, get a pic of the back side of the new bearing first.
 
The two last ones are the front and back of the new bearing, on the 3rd picture you can see the "clips" on the housing, thats the part confusing me
 
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