Trans Cooler Mount: Need Kansas 5th Gens for New Product Fitment

[jdm-v35]

This is what Hayden says on their brochures (but doesn't offer any tech data about "colder climates").

"Hayden’s new patented internal pressure by-pass coolers allow the vehicle’s transmission to reach optimum operating temperature quickly by routing the fluid through the by-pass channel of the cooler until fluid temperature increases. This new design allows vehicles in colder climates to reach proper operating temps faster which improves fuel economy and helps reduce friction of internal components. Hayden’s internal pressure by-pass design incorporates an integrated valve that eliminates the need for external valves and additional plumbing at installation."

I also wonder if the "valve" is a moving metal part or if it is all viscosity based.

Are there any tests to show the Hayden bypass doesn't work? I suspect the key is determining at what temperature point the Hayden cooler's "valve" activates. Probably somewhere below 160 degrees as Hayden's web site frequently refers to 175 degrees as a normal temp.

Maybe there is a way to run some cold weather drive tests and find what the Hayden is doing. Would we also need to know where the temperature sensors are located in our transmissions in order to better evaluate and understand the readings on the ScanGuage?

Did you completely bypass the OEM cooler in your install? If the bypass does work properly I am guessing that would be optimal to maintain lower temps.

 

[mrblah]

This is what Hayden says on their brochures (but doesn't offer any tech data about "colder climates").

"Hayden’s new patented internal pressure by-pass coolers allow the vehicle’s transmission to reach optimum operating temperature quickly by routing the fluid through the by-pass channel of the cooler until fluid temperature increases. This new design allows vehicles in colder climates to reach proper operating temps faster which improves fuel economy and helps reduce friction of internal components. Hayden’s internal pressure by-pass design incorporates an integrated valve that eliminates the need for external valves and additional plumbing at installation."

I also wonder if the "valve" is a moving metal part or if it is all viscosity based.

Are there any tests to show the Hayden bypass doesn't work? I suspect the key is determining at what temperature point the Hayden cooler's "valve" activates. Probably somewhere below 160 degrees as Hayden's web site frequently refers to 175 degrees as a normal temp.

Maybe there is a way to run some cold weather drive tests and find what the Hayden is doing. Would we also need to know where the temperature sensors are located in our transmissions in order to better evaluate and understand the readings on the ScanGuage?

sorry, when i was commenting earlier i was referring to the b&M version of a bypass which is 100 percent viscous related. I'm just guessing, but on the hayden how it works is as the fluid heats up and looses viscosity, it "leaks" through the valve. Therefore the valve is probably fully passive too.

So when i got my b&m supercooler, i found out their bypass was just different sized tubes to control viscosity as air temperature passed through the fins (hence why i said it was passive). I guess when i meant "gimmicky" is more towards the marketing perspective. If it wasn't for the marketing, nobody would have cared.


IMHO, buy whichever manufacture is on sale or works for the bracket you purchased. I went with b&m cuz it was on sale but would go with hayden if i wasnt a cheap skate bastard at the time.

 

[mrblah]

Did you use a barbed fitting to connect to the OEM hose? or did you eliminate the OEM hose by connecting the cooler in between?

I was thinking of connecting one end to the raidator outlet and the other to the hardline going back to the trans

I used a barb firing to connect the OEM hose to the tranny hose and the OEM clamp thing on the hardline. Its the line that is close to the windshield washer fluid spout.

I basically followed the diagram that has been floating around this forum for years.


I didnt bypass the OEM radiator/trans cooler, so i'll never have a over cooling issues.

Only advice i can give, is buy some extra 1 inch hose to slip over the hoses that are touching really sharp edges near the radiator support if you are going to run the hoses near the top of the rediator or headlight area. You don't need much only a few pieces.

 

[IconicFJ_]

These 5th gen trans cooler kit sales have been picking up with more and more of them going out the door everyday. Thanks guys!

 

[IconicFJ_]

Now offering Magnefine inline filters as a kit option on my website!!



Iconic Fabrication

 

[4Liberty]

Just placed an order!

Now offering Magnefine inline filters as a kit option on my website!!



Iconic Fabrication

I just placed an order for a complete kit with the filter!
I'm originally from central Kansas. Hoisington.
Happy to give you some business.
My 2019 TRD Offroad 4Runner has been to Silverton Colorado and the San Jaun's several times. I always monitored my transmission temperatures with OBD Fusion in a wifi OBII reader. Always tired to keep it under 220F. 3rd or 4th gear. No overdrive up those mountains. It got hot leaving it in Drive.
Looking forward to installing it. We want to tow a Aliner popup camper one day. Thanks for making this kit!

 

[teotwaki]

My install has been on about year now with zero issues. Much less to worry about when towing my trailer in hot weather.

 

[like2lean]

My install has been on about year now with zero issues. Much less to worry about when towing my trailer in hot weather.

First, huge thanks to you for all your time and effort to post all this info and help people with their installs. :bravo:

It seems the additional complexity of a bypass cooler (having a mechanical valve) is a completely unnecessary potential failure point since the trans regulates it's own temp anyway. In the diagram it looks like the bypass mode restricts the flow to one core which must be less than the 3/8" cooling lines so could only be a resriction at best? Am I wrong in my thinking?

Most are going with the Hayden coolers but the Derale 13613 looks like a better thicker cooler, anyone have any input on these vs Hayden?


I see many people are using worm clamps which are historically much less dependable than the constant tension clamps like the OEM and can loosen over time. I've have seen some use s/s fuel system clamps that could work well which I'll be looking for if anyone has recommendations. Thanks!

 

[teotwaki]

It seems the additional complexity of a bypass cooler (having a mechanical valve) is a completely unnecessary potential failure point since the trans regulates it's own temp anyway. In the diagram it looks like the bypass mode restricts the flow to one core which must be less than the 3/8" cooling lines so could only be a resriction at best? Am I wrong in my thinking?

Most are going with the Hayden coolers but the Derale 13613 looks like a better thicker cooler, anyone have any input on these vs Hayden?


I see many people are using worm clamps which are historically much less dependable than the constant tension clamps like the OEM and can loosen over time. I've have seen some use s/s fuel system clamps that could work well which I'll be looking for if anyone has recommendations. Thanks!

Hello and thank you!

The "bypass" is not a valve but I believe is based on the ID of the tubes and the viscosity of cold fluid versus hot fluid.

I don't know if a thicker cooler is needed but could be dependent on the load on the transmission and what sort of hot weather will be boosting the air temperature.

 

[IconicFJ_]

First, huge thanks to you for all your time and effort to post all this info and help people with their installs. :bravo:

It seems the additional complexity of a bypass cooler (having a mechanical valve) is a completely unnecessary potential failure point since the trans regulates it's own temp anyway. In the diagram it looks like the bypass mode restricts the flow to one core which must be less than the 3/8" cooling lines so could only be a resriction at best? Am I wrong in my thinking?

Most are going with the Hayden coolers but the Derale 13613 looks like a better thicker cooler, anyone have any input on these vs Hayden?


I see many people are using worm clamps which are historically much less dependable than the constant tension clamps like the OEM and can loosen over time. I've have seen some use s/s fuel system clamps that could work well which I'll be looking for if anyone has recommendations. Thanks!

The Derale 13613 by my best research is only rated about 1k btu higher than the Hayden series of coolers for my bracket.

FWIW the Hayden bypass technology seems extremely reliable, but if it worries you, its best to get something else.

 

[B1er68]

Completed my install today. The Iconic bracket worked perfectly with the non-bypass cooler.

I followed the option 1 diagram with the exception of running the bottom/inlet cooler line between the radiator and core support at the bottom passenger side. There's about 3/4 of an inch of space there and it gave me a direct shot at the blue painted metal line. A few zip-ties and some 5/8 spilt heater hose and I was done. Much easier for me and my fat hands to deal with in that tight spot.

The upper/discharge line I just ran it like the pics with a brass connector. Easy.

Temp hasn't gone above 160 yet with 92 ambient and the few miles I tested with today.

@IconicFJ The Tacoma install pics on your site are from my truck (White 3rd gen) from about a year ago... that setup worked so well I needed a bracket for my TRD Pro 4Runner. Thanks for making them, They work!

 

[IconicFJ_]

Here is a comprehensive install video with before and after results!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bS5xKcBep_g

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