trans fluid drain and refill
- Thread starter cmills
- Start date
Randyman...
New member
[MENTION=107124]Lester Lugnut[/MENTION] &
My '13 T4R SR5 4x4 w/Convenience Package has an AT Temp light for sure:
It seriously confused me for a good 30-45 minutes! All of the documentation I had been looking over these past few months all indicated "AT Temp" light. I knew I had one - so that was what I was initially looking for. I guess those were older threads or Tacoma threads or whatever that also discussed the flush procedure.
I initially noticed the "D" indicator behavior after attempt #3 - but still kept on trying to get the AT Temp light on for another 30 minutes. :withstupid:
FWIW - I assume all T4R's are similar - but my "AT Cooler Return Line" was a hose going into a solid line. The Tacoma thread linked elsewhere is reversed. My solid piping and rubber hoses were on the opposite side (flowing from hose into pipe). The 3/8" ID tubing I bought was just small enough to cram into the HOSE end of the AT Cooler Return (had to cram my 3/8" tubing INTO the factory hose). This is opposite of the Tacoma thread that shows the 3/8" tubing sliding over the solid piping.
In the end - it worked just fine - and I only needed around 8-12" of tubing to get from the AT Cooler Return line into the 5qt Mobil-1 oil carton I used as a catch and measurement tool. The garden sprayer mentioned elsewhere also worked well with about 12" of 3/8 hose attached and refilling via factory refill plug... I bought 10' of 3/8" - but oly needed about 2' :wave: It did take me a good 30 minutes to wrangle the AT Cooler Return hose off the pipe - I was being pretty careful (didn't want to bend/break the piping).
My 110mi round-trip drive to work today was uneventful. A very good thing after this ATF service!!! Much thanks to all information providers...
My '13 T4R SR5 4x4 w/Convenience Package has an AT Temp light for sure:
It seriously confused me for a good 30-45 minutes! All of the documentation I had been looking over these past few months all indicated "AT Temp" light. I knew I had one - so that was what I was initially looking for. I guess those were older threads or Tacoma threads or whatever that also discussed the flush procedure.
I initially noticed the "D" indicator behavior after attempt #3 - but still kept on trying to get the AT Temp light on for another 30 minutes. :withstupid:
FWIW - I assume all T4R's are similar - but my "AT Cooler Return Line" was a hose going into a solid line. The Tacoma thread linked elsewhere is reversed. My solid piping and rubber hoses were on the opposite side (flowing from hose into pipe). The 3/8" ID tubing I bought was just small enough to cram into the HOSE end of the AT Cooler Return (had to cram my 3/8" tubing INTO the factory hose). This is opposite of the Tacoma thread that shows the 3/8" tubing sliding over the solid piping.
In the end - it worked just fine - and I only needed around 8-12" of tubing to get from the AT Cooler Return line into the 5qt Mobil-1 oil carton I used as a catch and measurement tool. The garden sprayer mentioned elsewhere also worked well with about 12" of 3/8 hose attached and refilling via factory refill plug... I bought 10' of 3/8" - but oly needed about 2' :wave: It did take me a good 30 minutes to wrangle the AT Cooler Return hose off the pipe - I was being pretty careful (didn't want to bend/break the piping).
My 110mi round-trip drive to work today was uneventful. A very good thing after this ATF service!!! Much thanks to all information providers...
I did a lot of looking on this subject. only toyota has this ws spec in the USA / americas.
I found that mobil oil makes this spec but its only in china. tried to get mobil to respond but NO ! ws is the correct fluid and I found some had shift issues with other fluids.
on warranty you may have a problem using the NON ws spec..
Woz1976-MT
New member
You also have Amsoil Signature/OE Fuel Efficient ATF and Redline D6 ATF for options as well (though probably more expensive than Vavoline Maxlife ATF).
I'm going to be flushing and replacing my ATF with the Amsoil Signature for the cold-flow properties and to just clean out the AT after break-in (probably doesn't need it). Then I'll be doing a full ATF flush with Amsoil Signature at 50k, and every 50k thereafter. I know it's most certainly overkill, but I tend to keep my vehicles for 10+ years -- and like to help out the already great Toyota reliability. Heck, I might even keep my '16 TE for 20 years with "OCD vehicle maintenance routine".
Localmotion
New member
great info here.
I reached 100K on my '12 Sr5 and was wondering when to service the transmission. I do drive her a little hard :banana: and dont tow much.
Ive called 6 dealerships in the central/northern VA area and they have quoted me $220-$450! Some say I need to service it at 100K and some say 120K. Some dealers even wanted to charge me $100 to look at whether or not the fluid needed changing. Anyone know if the dealerships have different methods of flushing the transmission? enough to charge $230 more than the next?
I reached 100K on my '12 Sr5 and was wondering when to service the transmission. I do drive her a little hard :banana: and dont tow much.
Ive called 6 dealerships in the central/northern VA area and they have quoted me $220-$450! Some say I need to service it at 100K and some say 120K. Some dealers even wanted to charge me $100 to look at whether or not the fluid needed changing. Anyone know if the dealerships have different methods of flushing the transmission? enough to charge $230 more than the next?
I would see what is included in the transmission service. Some dealerships will just drain the pan and refill, others will go through Toyota's service procedure which is more like a flush. I think that is what will distinguish one price from another.
Many dealerships are also willing to price match another dealer's price for service as long as its comparable. That is something to consider if you have a dealership that you prefer.
Many dealerships are also willing to price match another dealer's price for service as long as its comparable. That is something to consider if you have a dealership that you prefer.
troopa4life
New member
Had a question about the level of the truck. When you're doing a drain and refill, how are you validating the transmission is level? Does it matter that much if the truck is on level ground or do you have to lift the front of the truck to get the truck level with the rear before removing the transmission check plug?
I'm sure a stupid question!
If my 2000 SR5 has an AT pump why can't I jack it up, put it on stands, put 16 quarts of new in a Home Depot 5 gallon bucket, pull the lines at the radiator (probably have to extend them a few feet), turn it on, put it in gear and let the pump suck up the new and dump the old in another 5 gallon bucket? This seems easier than on and off 2 quarts at a time...I know I'm missing something for this not to work!?!
Thanks,
Chris
If my 2000 SR5 has an AT pump why can't I jack it up, put it on stands, put 16 quarts of new in a Home Depot 5 gallon bucket, pull the lines at the radiator (probably have to extend them a few feet), turn it on, put it in gear and let the pump suck up the new and dump the old in another 5 gallon bucket? This seems easier than on and off 2 quarts at a time...I know I'm missing something for this not to work!?!
Thanks,
Chris
eelliiss
New member
Because the pump doesn't "suck" the transmission fluid, it only pushes it through the closed system. If you tried that method, you would run the system dry and burn out the pump, risking catastrophic failure. That's why it's recommended you only do a couple of quarts at a time.
I knew there must be a reason, thanks!
Lester Lugnut
New member
You could use a carpenters level on the bottom of the transmission pan to verify level. Some pans have a bit of an angle. I believe the 4Rs is flat.
My garage floor is level(verified with carpenters level) so I do the drain/replenish there. If you don't have a level garage floor - you may have to lift one end or the other to get pan level.
Too much fluid coming out?
I just replaced the pan on my 2017 4runner after severely denting it a few weeks ago. I drained it and 3.5 quarts came out, I pulled the pan there was and another .25 qts. So I refilled with 4 quarts of the WS ATF.
I just did the warm it up and solid D to verify temperature procedure, pulled the check valve and had an entire quart come out.
Is this bad? Was the truck overfilled to begin with? It seems that I now have 1 less quart then when I started with the stock pan
I just replaced the pan on my 2017 4runner after severely denting it a few weeks ago. I drained it and 3.5 quarts came out, I pulled the pan there was and another .25 qts. So I refilled with 4 quarts of the WS ATF.
I just did the warm it up and solid D to verify temperature procedure, pulled the check valve and had an entire quart come out.
Is this bad? Was the truck overfilled to begin with? It seems that I now have 1 less quart then when I started with the stock pan
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with the pan drop slightly less than 4 qts came out that is about correct .. with engine off more fluid in pan than when the engine is running .. since you dropped pan ,,,,,,,,,,,when warming up to the 110F temp put it in gear a few times to get the fluid flowing that may explain why too much came out when you removed the check level plug ...
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