Transfer case stuck in locked
- Thread starter DaGimp
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xtremewlr
Member
Sounds like the actuator for the center diff lock has possibly failed in it. Only suggestion is to keep trying it to see if it will eventually start working.
Very likely that the seals between the transfer case and the plastic actuator housing have failed, allowing gear oil to start seeping into the actuator housing and preventing the CDL actuator from working. It's supposed to be completely dry in there. Unfortunately, you can't just pull the actuator housing off to fix it as you will likely never get the timing right again. I've been thru this before. The only proper way to fix it is to drop and split the tcase, replace the seals and ensure the actuator housing is totally dry and that both actuators are working. A new actuator housing runs around $600 I think, so along with labor, very expensive.
My only suggestion, not really helpful right now, is to replace the tcase with one from an FJ Cruiser like I did. Manual shift and never have to worry about failed actuators again. If you can do most of the work yourself, you can do the swap for right around $1000. The FJ tcase is around $250, the expensive part, which will vary pricewise depending on the shop, is getting the driveshafts done. Front shortened, rear lengthened. Mine required all new drive shafts so ran me around $600 for both.
My swap is detailed in my build thread on tacomaworld. Actual swap start mid-way on page 10 - My daily driver 2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 | Page 10 | Tacoma World
Very likely that the seals between the transfer case and the plastic actuator housing have failed, allowing gear oil to start seeping into the actuator housing and preventing the CDL actuator from working. It's supposed to be completely dry in there. Unfortunately, you can't just pull the actuator housing off to fix it as you will likely never get the timing right again. I've been thru this before. The only proper way to fix it is to drop and split the tcase, replace the seals and ensure the actuator housing is totally dry and that both actuators are working. A new actuator housing runs around $600 I think, so along with labor, very expensive.
My only suggestion, not really helpful right now, is to replace the tcase with one from an FJ Cruiser like I did. Manual shift and never have to worry about failed actuators again. If you can do most of the work yourself, you can do the swap for right around $1000. The FJ tcase is around $250, the expensive part, which will vary pricewise depending on the shop, is getting the driveshafts done. Front shortened, rear lengthened. Mine required all new drive shafts so ran me around $600 for both.
My swap is detailed in my build thread on tacomaworld. Actual swap start mid-way on page 10 - My daily driver 2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 | Page 10 | Tacoma World
bob3dsf
New member
Interesting. I'll check out that thread. Not that I need to do it, but if something goes t1ts-up, it'll be nice to consider a couple options should I decide to do a repair. Question: Would just swapping to FJ drive shafts even be an option? Just wondering because there's so much similarity between the FL and 4R...
xtremewlr
Member
No, unfortunately not. Different wheel base so driveshaft lengths won't match. Only proper way to get the correct lengths is to measure front and rear once the new tcase is in place. Flange to flange with the truck sitting full weight on the wheels on a level surface. Whatever driveshaft shop is used should be able to tell you what they need for measurements.
702tripgen
New member
Check all of your fuses and connections. And like already stated keep trying to get it to disengage. Go in slight figure eights forward and reverse without binding things up too bad if you can't do it on the dirt.
I've tried that few times on snow/ice. Fuses and connections next. Thanks
702tripgen
New member
Try it on pavement, snow and ice might be too slick to get it to free up. Put it in a slight bind but don't do go crazy.
I've tried about every traction situation possible.
rdruss
Senior Member
I have an '03 V8 AWD and I'm still not sure I fully understand what is really happening in your situation (or mine when I switch mine to "locked").
The diffs are "open" front and rear and when we switch to "locked' the diffs are still open front and rear, correct? So I am trying see how detrimental your problem is, or mine would be if I was in your situation. The Torsen in our Tcase is a differential too isn't it? So I think you can drive it the way you are w/o drivetrain damage(?)
Someone get my mind right please!
The diffs are "open" front and rear and when we switch to "locked' the diffs are still open front and rear, correct? So I am trying see how detrimental your problem is, or mine would be if I was in your situation. The Torsen in our Tcase is a differential too isn't it? So I think you can drive it the way you are w/o drivetrain damage(?)
Someone get my mind right please!
Adeadwallnut
New member
Typically, the rear and front driveshafts can spin at different speeds. This is preferable for on road driving where grip is high. When the front and rear driveshafts spin at the same speed you can still drive but may get a build up of torsional stress in the driveshaft when turning (Wind up). This will put extra stress on many of the components in the drive system. Wind up on loose surfaces is dissipated beacuse the wheels can lose traction and spin . however on-road tyre spin is unlikely to occur and the extra tension can cause wear or break driveline components. It won't stop you from driving but it is for sure not ideal!
Here's a video that may help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceSFYccOzDg&ab_channel=RonnyDahl
benztech82
Member
Try this.
Drive straight up to 20-30km/h, switch transmission to neutral while rolling, push t-case lock to disengage.
If it doesn't work, do the same thing while rolling backwards.
This trick worked on bunch of 4x4 I have owned previously.
Drive straight up to 20-30km/h, switch transmission to neutral while rolling, push t-case lock to disengage.
If it doesn't work, do the same thing while rolling backwards.
This trick worked on bunch of 4x4 I have owned previously.
Drcoffee
Senior Member
I saw a thread where the person stepped up the voltage to the actuator and got it moving again. Try revving tne engine while in neutral as you turn the switch. If that wont do it, unplug the actuator and connect at source with 18-20v.
Fixed my T-Case actuator w/ electricity and logic.
Fixed my T-Case actuator w/ electricity and logic.
Car Pirate
New member
I’m having the same issue, you can tap the rod with the AWD version?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Captain John Beach
New member
Evening fellas, sorry to comment on a older thread (new member here) However not new to T4Rs.
Yesterday I went trail riding and crossed some pretty deep nasty muddy water...unbeknownst to me, the breather hose coming off the acuator some how slipped off (of course before I went through a solid 2ft of standing water ) I had 4low and CDL engaged. Made it through, disengaged CDL and 4lo and proceeded in 4HI (04 v8) on the way home about a 65 mile trek of open highway I noticed at 70mph it flashed 4lo for a split second. Got it home and it wouldn't engage CDL or 4lo. Everything just flashed. I pull the plastic cover off the acuator and water poured out. I put a fan under the truck for 18 hours to dry the acuator before trying to resolve anything. I pulled the gears cleaned and lubed everything and the acuator spins strong when I engage CDL, However. The diff lock is now stuck "on" and will not disengage. Also 4lo will not work. Both flash on dash and nothing. I noticed that the shaft under the plastic gears is stuck in about the half way position with about a quarter inch of play. Is there any tips to free this shaft up without pulling the TC? All info/pointers is greatly appreciated. I will be performing this repair myself. Thanks guys!!!
Yesterday I went trail riding and crossed some pretty deep nasty muddy water...unbeknownst to me, the breather hose coming off the acuator some how slipped off (of course before I went through a solid 2ft of standing water ) I had 4low and CDL engaged. Made it through, disengaged CDL and 4lo and proceeded in 4HI (04 v8) on the way home about a 65 mile trek of open highway I noticed at 70mph it flashed 4lo for a split second. Got it home and it wouldn't engage CDL or 4lo. Everything just flashed. I pull the plastic cover off the acuator and water poured out. I put a fan under the truck for 18 hours to dry the acuator before trying to resolve anything. I pulled the gears cleaned and lubed everything and the acuator spins strong when I engage CDL, However. The diff lock is now stuck "on" and will not disengage. Also 4lo will not work. Both flash on dash and nothing. I noticed that the shaft under the plastic gears is stuck in about the half way position with about a quarter inch of play. Is there any tips to free this shaft up without pulling the TC? All info/pointers is greatly appreciated. I will be performing this repair myself. Thanks guys!!!
