Transgo 340-hd2 install and reveiw
- Thread starter Black798
- Start date
Gravity_Knight
New member
Agree, the instructions suck and are lacking. And it would have taken very little extra effort to explain what your really doing, why your doing it.. what it does. I have been in a handful of valve bodies so I understand most of what I'm doing and why.. but the instructions suck. Kit is great though :eyebrows:
As far as this WOT issue, I'm not sure what to think. I can't imagine how the shift kit would do this, I know everything was clean and assembled right. I spent 5-6 hours doing the shift kit because I always take my time when in one of these. And knowing what I know about DBW and my experiences with it in the past I would fully expect the ECU to dampening the throttle on the shift. Dunno.. driving me nuts honestly.. I just want to make sure that's whats going on.
I'll try to get a video of it.. I'm not sure it will even show up on the tach, but it should be able to be heard more so than anything else. Can hear the motor dip power for a moment after it grabs 2nd gear. Don't really think I'm noticing it on the 2-3 which is weird, but I haven't done too many 2-3 WOT shifts as this turd takes forever to wind out 2nd lol
Black798
New member
Ill have to admit. I read the directions probably 5 times before I even picked up a wrench and still had to call transgo tech support twice during the install just to make sure I was on the right track. I should have the video of the shifts at WOT tomorrow but Im having issues with uploading them to photobucket
Thanks for the write up. I've got this kit at home on my shelf waiting till have I have some time this winter to install it. I've used Trans-go kits in the past on several of my GM rigs with excellent results for a very reasonable price. Also good to hear it smooths out the low range shifts a bit. I found them pretty harsh (and my rig is in low range quite a bit of the time) and was worried this kit might make them worse.
Gravity_Knight
New member
So I just got off the phone with Trans Go. Asking about my issue with what feels like a throttle plate closure just after the 1-2 shift. I wanted to double check that I didn't install something improperly. He said no, he couldn't think of anything I could do to cause this issue.. and he also feels that it's the ecu partially shutting the throttle during the 1-2 shift, and is now mis timed because it shifts so much faster. He was going to talk to some people in the know and call me back to try and confirm this.
My next step is too get something I can log throttle plate position with, as my ultra gauge doesnt refresh fast enough to catch it..
So nothing concrete yet.... sounds like I'm the only one with this shift kit and DBW (I guess that is quite possible).
My next step is too get something I can log throttle plate position with, as my ultra gauge doesnt refresh fast enough to catch it..
So nothing concrete yet.... sounds like I'm the only one with this shift kit and DBW (I guess that is quite possible).
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I haven't read this thread in a while, but had saved it. You probably figured this out already but 2002's are drive by wire, and yes the throttle plate closes partially during shift which is now altered. For all of us with 96-00 we don't have that issue.
[MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] how do you like it so far? I'm really thinking about doing this, I just added a small pulley and methanol injection so my 4Runner really scoots.
Black798
New member
So far I'm loving it even though I don't have a supercharger, I have close to 4,000 miles on the 4runner since I did this and have zero complaints. Fluid still looks brand new and the temps have always been in an acceptable range (120-200). I really love the feel of how the trans hooks up right away at the shift point and there is a definite decrease in slippage. If your pushing more power through the trans with the supercharger an meth injection I would highly recommend this. It will make sure your 4runner is able to scoot for many more miles rather than burning up the second gear clutch pack. I know for me if I ever supercharger, probably will if I make the jump to 33s, I will be glad I did this just for peace of mind.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Thanks for the reply, I have another question though. I'm guessing you also have the A340F since you have the same year and model. What is the part number for the valve body gaskets? I have having absolutely no luck finding it online, I don't know the real name or a part number.
Black798
New member
Ill have to look and see if I can find the receipt from when I got it. I also wasn't able to figure out the part number so I ended up calling the place I listed in the write up and had them look it up for my vin. Ill let you know if I find it.
EDIT:
Just looked up the receipt, for a 98 3.4 V6 you will need P/N 35433-30064 and P/N 35434-30076 for the two valve body gaskets
EDIT:
Just looked up the receipt, for a 98 3.4 V6 you will need P/N 35433-30064 and P/N 35434-30076 for the two valve body gaskets
Last edited:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
You are awesome. That second P/N doesn't show up, is it missing a digit?
Black798
New member
Yes it was mising a digit. Sorry about that. Should be P/N 35434-30076
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Thanks. I tried a few numbers but couldn't figure it out!
Black798
New member
Huh, when I was looking it up both of those numbers were working but all the sights that I checked said it was discontinued, which wasn't the case when I ordered a few months ago.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
No worries they had both at Camelback Toyota, I've ordered a lot of parts from them and they always have things in stock.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Half-way through this job, have the valve body out and all apart. That metal hose gave me a terrible time... it would NOT come out! Had to tap it with a hammer and jiggle it, finally ended up getting it sort of loose and just grabbed it with some vice-grips (gently) and yanked it out.
Gonna drill it tomorrow and start swapping springs.
Gonna drill it tomorrow and start swapping springs.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
DANG IT my truck drives terrible. I studied those instructions so much... but I've done something wrong. [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] if you are on at all this weekend, I'll PM you... I'm at a loss of what to do.
I think I MIGHT know what happened. When taking apart the valve body the plate and top part separated and all the check balls fell out. I put them back per the instructions but I noticed I only had two different sizes and did not have anything in the bottom left corner... looks like I get to do this again
I think I MIGHT know what happened. When taking apart the valve body the plate and top part separated and all the check balls fell out. I put them back per the instructions but I noticed I only had two different sizes and did not have anything in the bottom left corner... looks like I get to do this again
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Back on the road! If I ever see a valve body again it will be too soon. Oh wait, there's one in my backyard...
So here's my thoughts on the installation. This really is a "professional" install. I've never worked on a transmission before and I had thought I knew what to expect and how to do it after reading the instructions a few times. I was wrong! Here's a few tips for anyone looking to do this:
My final thoughts: transmission are really made of magic and pixie dust. I will never work on a valve body again, it really is complicated. I've rebuild engines, tuned a supercharged vehicle, worked on electrical, wires my own lights, etc. etc. but transmissions really are confusing. I thought this would be a walk in the park for me, boy was I wrong.
I've only had it fixed for a couple of hours so I'll update this post on my thoughts about how it drives once I have a good chance to take it out. Big thanks to [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] for answering my desperate texts on what the heck I did wrong!
So here's my thoughts on the installation. This really is a "professional" install. I've never worked on a transmission before and I had thought I knew what to expect and how to do it after reading the instructions a few times. I was wrong! Here's a few tips for anyone looking to do this:
- In the kits, there's 4 different valve bodies. From what I understand, our 4Runners have three dfferent kinds, 96-98, 99-00, 01-02. Of all the photos of a 98 on the inside I could find, they were ALL different with the locations of the check balls and metal retainers. Not one was the same, which leads to my next tip:
- DO NOT DROP THE VALVE BODY ONCE OPEN. The valve body splits in half, a larger lower section and an smaller upper section, separated by a metal plate which serves as a fluid passage and a gasket. Once you remove the screws and lift the separater plate off the lower sections, there's nothing holding it on the upper section and it will slip off with all that transmission fluid sloshing around. I accidentally had it slip off and all the check balls came out.
- If you are unsure where the check balls go like in my case, the instructions are confusing. That's my only qualm with the kit. Because there are so many variations, it just says "check ball location may vary". If that happens, just stop and ask for help... I tried to interpret where they should go and just put it back in how I thought and it drove terrible. The clutch would not engage, felt like I was just driving it around like a manual with the clutch half-way in. Was almost undrivable because I misplaced ONE check ball.
- I would take a photo of each step, valve body in the vehicle, out of vehicle, open, springs in the accumulator, etc so you have a frame of reference. Once you take it apart and start replacing stuff it's extremely hard to figure out what was stock and what was not. I started doing this but once I dropped the upper valve body it was all downhill.
- Be sure to get a good in/lb torque wrench. I bought a cheap 1/4 in drive (I have a socket adapter to fit my 3/8 sockets) from Harbor Freight that worked perfect. You really do need this, if you strip the valve body bolts you're screwed. BTW 3 of my transmission pan bolts were already stripped... dang, that must be why it leaks.
My final thoughts: transmission are really made of magic and pixie dust. I will never work on a valve body again, it really is complicated. I've rebuild engines, tuned a supercharged vehicle, worked on electrical, wires my own lights, etc. etc. but transmissions really are confusing. I thought this would be a walk in the park for me, boy was I wrong.
I've only had it fixed for a couple of hours so I'll update this post on my thoughts about how it drives once I have a good chance to take it out. Big thanks to [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] for answering my desperate texts on what the heck I did wrong!
tx_shooter
New member
What do you think of the transmission and drive ability after the install though?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Well, the 5 minutes I drove it was great lol! I spend 15 hours installing and un-installing the kit so I'm tired. I'll drive it around tomorrow and post up.
Black798
New member
Glad you got everything back in order. Thats odd that your 98 had a different valve body though, I wish there was better documentation on the types of valve body configurations, that was my major gripe with this kit as well was that the instructions were severely lacking.
