Transmission Fluid Change

There are T-Tech places where you can bring your fluids? Anywhere in NJ/NY area?

I don't see why any T-Tech place would have a problem with you bringing your own ATF.
If so then just call around to the local transmission shops.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone have an updated link to dropping the tranny pan? the link on the 3rd gen info thread does not work anymore. Thanks in advance!
 
Sorry to revive an old thread, but does anyone have an updated link to dropping the tranny pan? the link on the 3rd gen info thread does not work anymore. Thanks in advance!

Yup, same boat. I'm about to under take this but am now having a hard time figuring out the procedure and specifics. If I recall, there is a certain order loosening and tightening the pan's bolts? Or am I thinking of something else?
 
If there is a procedure for doing a pan drop, I did not follow one. I do loosen and install bolts in criss cross pattern

the main thing to watch is the oil drain bolt. It can be stripped easily. Did it on my last Toyota, and from what I have read, the 4 runner pan is no better as far as easy to strip.
I think its 15 foot pounds to put it back in, could be wrong
 
I am facing this job soon as well. Plant to drop pan, clean up magnets and filter, and then ghetto flush from the line in the radiator.

From what I understand, the stock pan gasket is RTV material, but I have read references to a rubber gasket that is strictly aftermarket. Has anyone ran with a rubber aftermarket gasket for a while and can comment on the longevity of it? Any part numbers floating around for these rubber gaskets?
 
is there this, link for a 5th gen 4runner yet?

The 5th Gen is a sealed system with no dipstick. Recommended complete fluid change at 60K, or drain and fill about 30K. The 5th Gen is very sensitive to fluid levels, the fluid has to be a certain temperature and a certain level. There is a way to do it with TechStream and a way without it.

I have done it on the 2GR-FE 3.5L V6 Camry without TechStream that also had a sealed transmission. I would recommend doing it only if you have quite a bit of knowledge about cars, if not take it to the dealer.
 
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The 5th Gen is a sealed system with no dipstick. Recommended complete fluid change at 60K, or drain and fill about 30K.

So Toy finally got smart and actually indirectly acknowledged that WS fluid isn't lifetime then I take it.

Having towed with my sister's 2013 you really have to rev the engine to get it to move. Not much torque in the low RPMs IMO, thought she tows nothing more than jet skis.
 
So Toy finally got smart and actually indirectly acknowledged that WS fluid isn't lifetime then I take it.

Having towed with my sister's 2013 you really have to rev the engine to get it to move. Not much torque in the low RPMs IMO, thought she tows nothing more than jet skis.

Totally agree on both counts. Initially the TIV fluid they use in the 2003 and up 4Runner was supposed to be lifetime, but it's not at all. It is the equivalent of Valvoline Dex/Merc High Mileage (Full Synthetic).
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I wanted to add that I used a 4th method, the one used in this video:

10 Min Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars) - YouTube

I used BG Universal Synthetic ATF 312, purchased in a 4-gallon plastic bladder inside a cardboard box. It can be found on eBay, although I picked up mine from a local shop for about $100. Yes, there are obviously cheaper options, but this brand came highly recommended from a friend who has used it on several other cars.

When I drained the pan (the first step), I drained just about 4 quarts/1 gallon of fluid.

I modified the procedure in the video, incorporating a technique someone else posted in another thread -- starting the engine and pumping out about 2-3 quarts at a time, then stopping the engine and filling through the dipstick tube.

I was able to start and stop the engine myself; I drained into a gallon milk jug to make the volume measurement easier. It took about 15-20 seconds to pump 2 quarts, and there was plenty of time to see the level approach, then walk up and shut off the ignition through the open window.

My truck's fluid had been previously replaced about 50,000 miles prior (a full pan drop, magnet clean, etc), and both the stuff initially drained from the pan, as well as the first gallon or two out of the return line were quite dark.

In all, I used just under 14 quarts total by the time the fluid coming out the return line was bright red.

After buttoning everything up and driving around, I needed to add about 3/4 of a quart to get the fluid level up to the line.

All in all, well worth the time and effort.

Bumping this because I can and the information seems spot on and will save me about 250 bucks...good stuff.
 
I measure what I drain out from the transmission and put that exact amount back in every 10K miles when I am doing an oil change. I have a 3 qt graduated container. I replace that fluid with Amsoil ATF.
 
Transmission Flush or Drain and Fill 1999 T4R with 180,000

Last November my head gasket blew and my friend has made my 4Runner a weekend project. It is finally done, but he suggests that it needs a coolant flush and a entire transmission flush ( not a drain and fill.) The Honda place near my house has the machine for the tranny flush but they said they do not recommend a full on flush on trucks over 100k miles. When I called Toyota they said they don't ever recommend a full flush and do not recommend it on any of their vehicles. My friend is telling me it def needs the flush. Other than the coolant flush which I am 100% doing, what do you think I should do? Also, Toyota says they use a special type of tranny fluid. Is this important? :wacko:
 
At work we use the BG trans fluid exchange machine. This machine runs off of the trans own pressure, no added pressure that could disturb internal parts. The new fluid simply pushes out the old fluid. I've used it on my own vehicles for years and customer's vehicles with well over 100k miles and i never had a trans issue after a fluid change. Pictured is the fluid before & after on my 02 4runner. With this machine there is a sight glass and you can watch the fluid go from being black & nasty to new.
 

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a little help from my friends

I'm a new owner of a '99 6 cyl FWD Auto transmission 130k. Last weekend, I bypassed the stock tranny cooler and went with a B&M 70268 to avoid the possibility of milkshake. I picked up 2qts Castrol Transmax Dexron VI to top-off after the switch . My garage has slight incline, nose down, and I lost a little more than 3 qts, added the 2qts I bought, and drove it 9 miles to get more atf. Only then did I notice the the Dexron VI quarts said for GM, though the bottle says "Synthetic blend formula exceeds dextrin III H Requirements". Doh! I replaced the last quart with Mobil 1 Dex synthetic. Fluid didn't look very fresh, and I'm thinking I should drop the pan, clean plug/magnet, and do a flush. I'm praying nothing in that Castrol will damage my tranny. And have a couple of questions:

1) Am I at risk to damage to the tranny with those 2 quarts of the Castrol?

2) For the folks that are swearing by amsoil, which atf are you using from them for your 3rd gen 6cyl 4wd auto tranny?


3 With respect to the diy flush where you use the runner itself to pump out the old atf while you replace with new atf --

3a) After the drain and pan drop, and you replace the pan, do you add those lost quarts immediately into the fill tube before you begin the 'flush?'

3b) Rather than start the engine, pump a quart, stop the engine, add a quart sequence, is there any reason that I couldn't add a couple temporary hose extensions onto the hoses that normally run to and from the cooler, and run instead the return line from a large clean container of new atf, and the send line to a large empty container for the old/dirty atf, and just run the engine once until the new fluid started coming out the send line? Outside of the setup, it seems like this would be a simpler route to go.
 

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I drained my trans fluid ,and the bolt took a lot of turns to get it off for such a small bolt, I'm thinking it shouldn't be this much turns of the wrench
Also it took a lot of wrench turns to tighten it back up

Does this happen with everyone ?
Or does your trans drain plug come right off and right on?
 
yes that is the way the trans bolts are, so now I just 'drain' from the hose leading to the trans coolers and suck up fresh from the other until it runs fresh and pink. :cowboy:
 

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