Transmission kickdown cable broke?

jman11788

Member
Recently I installed the TRD Supercharger on my 3.4. First thing I noticed when driving it (other then the power increase) it was shifting hard from 1st to 2nd. Jerks the whole truck. I've played around with the cable numerous times to try and find the right adjustment. After i adjust normally it shifts pretty smooth a couple times then it will work its way back. The harder I accel from 1st to 2nd the less jerky it is..

As you can see in the pic, those little needle grooves will not stay inside the metal piece like the cable is too short. When I adjust it will stay in there until I start driving for a bit thus making the shifting hard i believe. How can I get those grooves to stay in correctly?
 

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I read somewhere that its an internal cable in the transmission so you can't really replace it?
Time to replace the cable for sure. You'll need to remove the transmission pan, transmission filter, and the valve body in order to replace the cable where it connects in the transmission. Here's a 2000 FSM: 2000 4Runner FSM - Printable - Google Drive The information you are looking for is in section 25 and then page AT-16.
 
Dang, I've never seen that before.

When you install the new one, you have to loosen and even bend the transmission cable bracket on the engine hanger. Don't be afraid to loosen bolts and twist it to where you need it. It's a very tight fit but it does fit. Also, always pick the most direct route around hoses and wires.
 
Dang, I've never seen that before.

When you install the new one, you have to loosen and even bend the transmission cable bracket on the engine hanger. Don't be afraid to loosen bolts and twist it to where you need it. It's a very tight fit but it does fit. Also, always pick the most direct route around hoses and wires.

Yeah, I was reading the fsm and it kinda scares my taking the valve body off. I dont know maybe its not that bad.
 
Yeah, I was reading the fsm and it kinda scares my taking the valve body off. I dont know maybe its not that bad.
Be meticulous with the fastener locations and torque values on re-assembly. It won't be bad as long as you enjoy ATF showers...

-Charlie
 
Yeah, I was reading the fsm and it kinda scares my taking the valve body off. I dont know maybe its not that bad.

I've done it twice. Actually, more than twice if you count dismantling transmissions for scrap. You'll need an accurate torque wrench and patience but it's not impossible by any means. It is an absolute mess though. Finally a good use for all that surplus PPE stuff, a face shield would be handy!

Nothing good will happen running the vehicle as-is indefinitely. It needs to be fixed.
 
I've done it twice. Actually, more than twice if you count dismantling transmissions for scrap. You'll need an accurate torque wrench and patience but it's not impossible by any means. It is an absolute mess though. Finally a good use for all that surplus PPE stuff, a face shield would be handy!

Nothing good will happen running the vehicle as-is indefinitely. It needs to be fixed.


So I’m almost done installing the cable. The cable is too short . I have all the slack out.. if I pull too hard I feel like I’ll break it. Idk what to do at this point. It’s like the supercharger is too tall for the cable
 
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Any chance you got the 3rz cable instead of the 5vz cable? I think the throttle body on the 3rz is a bit closer to the trans, so the cable would be shorter/different.

Otherwise, I'd say follow gamerfreak's advice - make sure the cable is following the most direct route from the trans up to the throttle body.

-Charlie
 
Any chance you got the 3rz cable instead of the 5vz cable? I think the throttle body on the 3rz is a bit closer to the trans, so the cable would be shorter/different.

Otherwise, I'd say follow gamerfreak's advice - make sure the cable is following the most direct route from the trans up to the throttle body.

-Charlie

It’s the 5vz cable. Using the most direct route it’s too short
 
Also, If anyone plans to do this you do not have to remove the valve body. Just the pan and you have access to it. Pretty simple job
 
For some reason my phone won’t upload the pic. I’ll upload it tomorrow at work.

So far it’s shifting butter smooth now. Hopefully it doesn’t come back we will see. So right now successful repair
 
Sure did. It at lined up. I managed to get it on there but it seems too tight

In the off-chance you have a throttle body spacer take it off as that's the only thing that will make it too tight. Make sure the lock nuts are out as far as they possible can to give you an extra 1/2 in from the threads. Every millimeter helps, quite literally!
 
No throttle spacer. That's exactly what I did. Maxed out the threads then put it on the bracket. Was a little worried when I started adjusting it would break the cable loose like last time but still intact. Shifting real good now :banana:

Why does the fsm say to remove valve body? I didn't see a reason why you would.
 
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