Transmission not shifting smoothly

4

4thGen4.7

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I promise I used the search bar - I hate starting new threads. With so many different transmission issues it's difficult to sift through and find anything similar to my issue.

I have an 04 SE v8 - 195k on the odo.

The problem: Starting from 0 and driving normally I don't experience any stickiness in the gears - so it doesn't affect me on a daily basis. When I slow down to park/enter parking lots I'm shifting fine. However, when I come off a busy road, into a parking lot with decent speed and let the car naturally slow down without breaking - after giving it some gas to get through the lot it doesn't shift up smoothly, in fact, I usually have to get it up to 2500 RPM for it to shift up into the next gear. After that it seems fine - I believe it is just the single gear causing issues.

The cause (maybe): A few years ago while in college I wasn't paying attention while changing my oil and drain the tranny fluid - no problem, I just poured it into an empty oil jug and measured 3.5qts. Picked up some fluid at the stealership and put it back in with a pump bottle. The problem is, I didn't do the test method because I was confident I put the exact same amount back in. However, I don't remember having this transmission issue before the fluid swap.

My solution? I'm thinking about doing a system flush now that I have the means (no longer in college) - that fluid I drained did not look good so I know it needs it but I have heard the warnings about having metal chunks in the fluid and that being what keeps the gears from slipping with the clean, new fluid. Should I do this as a first step and see if the problems persist, then take the next steps? If so, what are those steps?

Thanks everyone!
 
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Try to do a simple drain and fill.


I changed my trans oil after 60k miles, it was a sealed transmission.Went to a local mechanic, drained out the pain and put in 6 qrtz of my tranny fluid. I shouldve done my research too but the mechanic guy refilled my pan untill it leaked out from the fill-in bolt. Drove my 4runner that day and notice that my RPM was sitting higher than normal and notice a trans oil smell. I looked under-neath and oil was leaking from the pan. Also the tranny was slipping as well.

After contacting the mechanic, he did some research too, i shouldve done it too before i brought it in, but the pan required 4 qrts for drain and fill. So we ended up draining the pain and carefully adding the 4 qrts in and using the leveling-bolt that was there to let us know that its topped off correctly


SImple mistake but learned from it, luckily no major harm to the trans, driving smooth just as before.
 
find a toyota dealer that is equipped to do a full replacement (requires special equipment not all dealers have). that will be a minimum of 12 qtr of WS fluid flooded through the system. i'm having this done soon just because at 200k with original fluid, i think it's time. with a service coupon it will cost about $230. with the transmission at stake, worth it to let the dealer do it.
 
Or....go the cheap way that a lot of us do. Change it yourself through the cooler lines. 3 gallon jugs of Valvoline MaxLife synthetic ATF costs about the same as a few quarts from the dealership. There are lots of threads on here about the how-to.

Even if the dealer does it they're not going to warranty the transmission. A serious repair will probably cost what the truck is worth. If you're able, do it yourself and save the cash for some other repair....
 
i can get toyota WS for about $6.50/qt at the dealer. a full flush will require at least 12 qts. so looking at least at $70 for fluid, plus washers. i have no problem adding $150 more to let the dealership use their expertise and equipment to handle this job. they will have experience i don't have in observing issues that may exist in the old fluid.
 
rwh963 said:
i can get toyota WS for about $6.50/qt at the dealer. a full flush will require at least 12 qts. so looking at least at $70 for fluid, plus washers. i have no problem adding $150 more to let the dealership use their expertise and equipment to handle this job. they will have experience i don't have in observing issues that may exist in the old fluid.
Click to expand...

rwh - I'd like have your confidence that the dealer will pay adequate attention to the condition of the fluid or transmission.

The consistent message in all these replies - including mine - is to get the transmission fluid fully changed, doing it yourself or by taking it to a qualified mechanic. I'm using MaxLife, but the difference in the cost of transmission fluid, changed once every 4 or 5 years, is clearly insignificant.
 
i go by the old adage: trust, but verify". the dealership has ok'd me checking on the process while it is occurring. i will be able to speak to the tech/service manager if desired, and get a look at the fluid taken out. i have a pretty good relationship with a couple of local dealerships.

i do a lot of my own work, and do have independents available as well, but for this relatively small money i have no problem letting toyota certified techs handle this job.
 
I appreciate all of you for taking the time to leave your responses. I will make some calls and update the thread after the flush has been completed with the difference in performance.
 
4thGen4.7 said:
I appreciate all of you for taking the time to leave your responses. I will make some calls and update the thread after the flush has been completed with the difference in performance.
Click to expand...

I would suggest NOT a flush. you'll want the fluid exchanged. there are machines that can do this. it is bit of a different process from a flush.
 
nevada said:
I would suggest NOT a flush. you'll want the fluid exchanged. there are machines that can do this. it is bit of a different process from a flush.
Click to expand...

I might have to call and see what they have me scheduled for. I believe it's an exchange because they quoted $150 parts / $130 labor / $19.50 supplies. Wouldn't a flush just be draining all the fluids and not have a "part" quote?
 
4thGen4.7 said:
I might have to call and see what they have me scheduled for. I believe it's an exchange because they quoted $150 parts / $130 labor / $19.50 supplies. Wouldn't a flush just be draining all the fluids and not have a "part" quote?
Click to expand...

Drain and fill is very easy to do yourself. The transmission is not actually sealed (it has a breather line) and the only difference is that it does not have a dip stick. The easiest action is to do a fluid level check. If that's good, then do a drain and fill. The transmission fluid temperature needs to be between 95-115F before removing the overfill bolt (5mm Allen). It's very easy to check the temperature with a Scan Guage2 but you can also jumper 2 pins on the OBD2 port to see if you're within the correct range. The so called "lifetime" fluid was a misguided name.
 
Here’s the transmission temperature (TFT) readout on a SG2.
 

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4thGen4.7 said:
I might have to call and see what they have me scheduled for. I believe it's an exchange because they quoted $150 parts / $130 labor / $19.50 supplies. Wouldn't a flush just be draining all the fluids and not have a "part" quote?
Click to expand...

A flush and fluid exchange is the same. If you have over 150k on how many, dark the fluid is and the transmission fluid has never been serviced, I would just do a drain and fill to see how the transmission reacts. Switch to synthetic.
 
4thGen4.7 said:
I might have to call and see what they have me scheduled for. I believe it's an exchange because they quoted $150 parts / $130 labor / $19.50 supplies. Wouldn't a flush just be draining all the fluids and not have a "part" quote?
Click to expand...

an actual flush is done with pressurized fluid. it pushes the old fluid out. not so good.

you would still have a part quote, the transmission fluid is billed under parts.
 
empty403 said:
A flush and fluid exchange is the same. If you have over 150k on how many, dark the fluid is and the transmission fluid has never been serviced, I would just do a drain and fill to see how the transmission reacts. Switch to synthetic.
Click to expand...

A drain and fill would just be the 3ish quarts from the pan out of, what, 12 or 16 quarts in the entire system? Assuming I correctly check the level and have the correct amount how is it possible to feel a difference with only a fraction of new fluid?
 
nevada said:
an actual flush is done with pressurized fluid. it pushes the old fluid out. not so good.

you would still have a part quote, the transmission fluid is billed under parts.
Click to expand...

Can you explain the difference in more detail? I don't understand how they could get all of the fluid out without a pressurized system if the pan only spits out 3qrts. Why would pushing the old fluid out in this manor be bad?
 
4thGen4.7 said:
Can you explain the difference in more detail? I don't understand how they could get all of the fluid out without a pressurized system if the pan only spits out 3qrts. Why would pushing the old fluid out in this manor be bad?
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historically it has shown to be detrimental to a trans with higher mileage. it can dislodge stuff and cause issues.

with a fluid exchange, the trans cooler lines are used. the transmission pumps out fluid, and the machine replaces it. it will exchange 100% of the fluid, all using the internal transmission pump. so no excess pressures to cause any problems.

the problem may be finding a shop that has this equipment, they don't all do it. most just use the pressurized flush.
 
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