Transmission pan adapter for temp gage?

4Runner4Leon said:
Maybe I'm just being stubborn, but I think the pan is a better place for the sending unit - but I do see that it's a subject of much debate on this forum.
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My install took less then 10 minutes. I used a brass tee on the supply side about 18 inches from where it goes from hard line to rubber.

To me it wasn't even close to worth it to drop the pan and modify it. How much temp difference do you think there is from the fluid in the pan compared to where I monitor mine? 5 degrees? 10 degrees?

Whatever that number is it isn't large enough to remotely concern me. It'd be cooler in the pan anyway since you have supply and return mixing. I put mine as close to the hottest part of my system I could think of. It also happened to be the easiest way.

Just some food for thought.
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
You must be carefull using RTV on a gasket. It becomes a lubricant and causes the gasket to push and pucker while tightening.
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Agreed - I plan to put on a very thin coating and just barely snug the bolts, then let the FIPG set. And then torque them later, maybe next day.
 
theesotericone said:
My install took less then 10 minutes. I used a brass tee on the supply side about 18 inches from where it goes from hard line to rubber.

To me it wasn't even close to worth it to drop the pan and modify it. How much temp difference do you think there is from the fluid in the pan compared to where I monitor mine? 5 degrees? 10 degrees?

Whatever that number is it isn't large enough to remotely concern me. It'd be cooler in the pan anyway since you have supply and return mixing. I put mine as close to the hottest part of my system I could think of. It also happened to be the easiest way.

Just some food for thought.
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I'll ask the same question I asked [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION]. Could you provide more info on what gauge you bought, where you installed it on your rig, what parts you bought to tap into the send line and how you ran the wiring to power the gauge? I definitely want to do this on the 1998 I just bought because I'm regularly driving in the mountains and I want to be able to monitor my trans temps like I can do on my 2000.
 
mtbtim said:
I'll ask the same question I asked [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION]. Could you provide more info on what gauge you bought, where you installed it on your rig, what parts you bought to tap into the send line and how you ran the wiring to power the gauge? I definitely want to do this on the 1998 I just bought because I'm regularly driving in the mountains and I want to be able to monitor my trans temps like I can do on my 2000.
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No worries Tim.

Here's a thread that has a photo of the brass T and the original gauge and pillar pod. I've since returned that shitty Glo-Shift gauge and bought an Auto Meter gauge and pod. Way better. I'll link the pod and gauge for you. A lot of guys have put them in the lower center console up and left of the shifter. If you decide on that location you don't need the pillar pod.

I also have an aftermarket cooler wired in series with the stock trans cooler. The parts should be the same either way. Just cut a tee into the supply line going to your radiator. Passenger side is supply, drivers is return. Both sides of the tee get 1/4 NPT x 3/16 barbed male fittings. The top port gets a 1/4 NPT x 1/8 NPT bushing. The kit comes with the sensor. It goes in the 1/8" bushing. Put some band clamps on the barbed sides then wire the gauge.

The gauge wiring is super simple. Just follow the instructions.

Parts:

1/4 Brass NPT Tee
Two 1/4" NPT x 3/16th barbed fittings
1/4 x 1/8 bushing
Two 1" band clamps.
Auto-Meter Trans Temp Gauge
Auto Meter Pillar Pod
 
theesotericone said:
No worries Tim.

Here's a thread that has a photo of the brass T and the original gauge and pillar pod. I've since returned that shitty Glo-Shift gauge and bought an Auto Meter gauge and pod. Way better. I'll link the pod and gauge for you. A lot of guys have put them in the lower center console up and left of the shifter. If you decide on that location you don't need the pillar pod.

I also have an aftermarket cooler wired in series with the stock trans cooler. The parts should be the same either way. Just cut a tee into the supply line going to your radiator. Passenger side is supply, drivers is return. Both sides of the tee get 1/4 NPT x 3/16 barbed male fittings. The top port gets a 1/4 NPT x 1/8 NPT bushing. The kit comes with the sensor. It goes in the 1/8" bushing. Put some band clamps on the barbed sides then wire the gauge.

The gauge wiring is super simple. Just follow the instructions.

Parts:

1/4 Brass NPT Tee
Two 1/4" NPT x 3/16th barbed fittings
1/4 x 1/8 bushing
Two 1" band clamps.
Auto-Meter Trans Temp Gauge
Auto Meter Pillar Pod
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks for sharing this.
 
theesotericone said:
Both sides of the tee get 1/4 NPT x 3/16 barbed male fittings. The top port gets a 1/4 NPT x 1/8 NPT bushing. The kit comes with the sensor. It goes in the 1/8" bushing. Put some band clamps on the barbed sides then wire the gauge.

The gauge wiring is super simple. Just follow the instructions.

Parts:

1/4 Brass NPT Tee
Two 1/4" NPT x 3/16th barbed fittings
1/4 x 1/8 bushing
Two 1" band clamps.
Auto-Meter Trans Temp Gauge
Auto Meter Pillar Pod
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I assume you mean 3/8" barbed fittings, not 3/16"?

I'm still torn between installing the gauge in the lower console or the A-pillar. Leaning towards the A-pillar, with this kind of pod - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062ZWAU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER.

Also, I'm beginning to come around from my original post in this thread, and leaning towards putting the sensor in the cooler line, or in the place of the current A/T temp idiot light sensor. I read enough posts to convince me that that is the correct way (the best way to measure the hottest fluid temp, which is what I really care about, not the diluted fluid in the pan). Plus Toyota put the sensor in that location, so that's got to count for something.
 
4Runner4Leon said:
Thanks for the info. I assume you mean 3/8" barbed fittings, not 3/16"?
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Thanks man. It's been a while. lol

5/16 actually and I'm pretty sure I had 1/4 tee but ended up using a 3/8" tee. SO anyone reading my parts list might want to remember my memory sucks. The idea is to get barbed fittings that fit snug and a tee that's as big as the ID of the trans hose but still allows them to go on fully. I really should have started a build thread earlier. lol
 
theesotericone said:
Thanks man. It's been a while. lol

5/16 actually and I'm pretty sure I had 1/4 tee but ended up using a 3/8" tee. SO anyone reading my parts list might want to remember my memory sucks. The idea is to get barbed fittings that fit snug and a tee that's as big as the ID of the trans hose but still allows them to go on fully. I really should have started a build thread earlier. lol
Click to expand...

No worries, I can't remember anything either which is why I write things down or take pics :).

I rounded up a 1/4" brass T and 1/4" NPT x 3/8" barbs this morning, hopefully that will work out. I'll let you know if it doesn't.
 
Couple more thoughts:

Leon, it sounds like you are considering the T fitting route instead of the tapping into the pan. I think its the way you should go. If you are going to tap the pan and use the rubber gasket, do not put any RTV on it. I've had mine pan off so many damn times and reused the rubber gasket every time and it has never leaked a drop. No need to make a mess and deal with removing RTV/FIPG if you ever need to drop the pan again. Just make sure you clean everything up real good and it will seal fine.

If you do go the T fitting route, it sounds like you (and Tim) got the info you need.

If you have any other questions about how I did, shoot me a message. I really like the glowshift gauge. Just make sure you use good quality hose clamps and it doesn't hurt to check them for tightness every once in awhile. I've never had to tighten mine so they are holding up fine and have never leaked.

One last thing, If you do install the gauge on the center console, I put mine a little too far to the left. I'm a big guy (6'3") and my big fat knee can obstruct my view of the gauge a little bit. If it was moved over another inch, it would be a little more visible. For now, I just have to move my leg inwards to see it a little better.
 
thegipper said:
Couple more thoughts:

Leon, it sounds like you are considering the T fitting route instead of the tapping into the pan. I think its the way you should go. If you are going to tap the pan and use the rubber gasket, do not put any RTV on it. I've had mine pan off so many damn times and reused the rubber gasket every time and it has never leaked a drop. No need to make a mess and deal with removing RTV/FIPG if you ever need to drop the pan again. Just make sure you clean everything up real good and it will seal fine.

If you do go the T fitting route, it sounds like you (and Tim) got the info you need.

If you have any other questions about how I did, shoot me a message. I really like the glowshift gauge. Just make sure you use good quality hose clamps and it doesn't hurt to check them for tightness every once in awhile. I've never had to tighten mine so they are holding up fine and have never leaked.

One last thing, If you do install the gauge on the center console, I put mine a little too far to the left. I'm a big guy (6'3") and my big fat knee can obstruct my view of the gauge a little bit. If it was moved over another inch, it would be a little more visible. For now, I just have to move my leg inwards to see it a little better.
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Mike,

Thanks so much for the thoughts and the offer to message you for help (if needed)!

I actually came to the same decision last night, no sealant with the rubber gasket. I have had a rubber gasket with no sealer on my minivan for 5 years, and not a drop of fluid. If worse comes to worst and it leaks, I can remove it easily and try something else without dealing with the scraping mess.

And yes, I'll go with the T in the cooler line, as recommended by you and others, by GM, and by where Toyota places the idiot light (right near the cooler line).

I'm also 6'3", so I see what you mean about the knee obstructing the gauge in the console. I might put it there initially just to try things out, but maybe relocate it to the A pillar later. Have you ever considered that location? I like my gauges to be closer to line of sight, if possible.
 
For grins and giggles I just took some trans temp readings with my no-touch infrared thermometer and compared to Torque Pro. Drove for about 30 mins and pulled over and left it idling. All readings were taken more than once and were within 2-3°
The readings below are the average, or numbers seen most:

Torque Pro: 145°

Pan: 145°

Trans body and output line to rad cooler: 157°

Rad cooler output to aux cooler: 111° (same at aux cooler coz not moving)​

I guess Toyota is reading the temp near the pan because the readings around the pan were within consistently 1-2° of Torque Pro and I suppose these values could radically change and while driving under various conditions (load)

None of this matters, just sharing
 
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octanejunkie said:
For grins and giggles I just took some trans temp readings with my no-touch infrared thermometer and compared to Torque Pro. Drove for about 30 mins and pulled over and left it idling. All readings were taken more than once and were within 2-3°
The readings below are the average, or numbers seen most:

Torque Pro: 145°

Pan: 145°

Trans body and output line to rad cooler: 157°

Rad cooler output to aux cooler: 111° (same at aux cooler coz not moving)​

I guess Toyota is reading the temp near the pan because the readings around the pan were within consistently 1-2° of Torque Pro and I suppose these values could radically change and while driving under various conditions (load)

None of this matters, just sharing
Click to expand...

Interesting data Mike! I wonder where Toyota places the trans temp sensor on the '99's - we do know that on the '97's the idiot light sensor is right near the cooler line, so I thought (think?) that the '99 would use the same location, just replacing the idiot light sensor with a temp sensor. But what do I know about A340s...
 
4Runner4Leon said:
Interesting data Mike! I wonder where Toyota places the trans temp sensor on the '99's - we do know that on the '97's the idiot light sensor is right near the cooler line, so I thought (think?) that the '99 would use the same location, just replacing the idiot light sensor with a temp sensor. But what do I know about A340s...
Click to expand...

There appears to be a connection in the same place as yours on my 99, so I imagine they hook up similarly, but I don't know for certain.

Realistically, my opinion matters least Lol you've gotten good info from more informed members, go with it :peace:
 
Pillar would work too, I considered it but had already spent boat loads of money on other stuff so I just decided to mount it on the center console near the shifter.

The only catch is, I had to use a hole saw and drill a spot for it. I would just get a pillar mount since that sounds like what you want anyway.

I think Tim asked about where the wires were run. I tapped into the headlight switch wire I believe by steering column, if you look back on that post I made it says which color the wire is. The glowshift gauge I bought dims when you turn on the headlights which is nice. For the signal wires (if installed on shift console) I just fed them back and up and over (I believe, maybe under) the steering console and fed it to the boot on the drivers side firewall (where the massive wire loom goes through) and snaked it around the engine bay to the T fitting. I zip tied everything to secure it so it doesn't break or get messed up.

Good luck
 
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