Transmission pan adapter for temp gage?

[4Runner4Leon]

Hey Leon, I apologize for taking your thread on a detour. I was just starting my research on how to install an aftermarket transmission temperature gauge and came across your thread. I figured you and others commenting on the thread would be able to answer all my questions, and I was right. I appreciate all the help you and [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] gave me on this. I now feel confident on how to tackle this job. I'm still going to let my friend Mikey help me do the wiring because I know he'll be able to recommend the best type of connectors to splice into the existing wiring.

Thanks again!

Hey Tim, no worries at all about derailing the thread, I was just musing about how far off we veered from the original topic . And I thought that you might get better response if you started a new thread about your specific question, but since we were able to to help you out here, that's just perfect! All good!

 

[4Runner4Leon]

If you have any other questions about how I did, shoot me a message. ...
One last thing, If you do install the gauge on the center console, I put mine a little too far to the left.

So Mike ([MENTION=2877860]thegipper[/MENTION] (or others), I do have a question. I am planning to install the gauge in the center console -how did you route the wires from the sending unit to the console cubby? Did you go to the driveshaft tunnel and then up through the shifter, or up towards the firewall and then behind the dash, or something else?

Just trying to learn from others instead of reinventing the wheel .

 

[thegipper]

That is basically what I did. Head up towards the transmission tunnel, then hang a left up over the the steering column (maybe I went under it?) and back towards the electrical harness that goes through the firewall on the drivers side.

From there, fish it around the engine bay towards wherever your sensor is going to be.

Just secure everything with zip ties so nothing breaks.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

That is basically what I did. Head up towards the transmission tunnel, then hang a left up over the the steering column (maybe I went under it?) and back towards the electrical harness that goes through the firewall on the drivers side.

From there, fish it around the engine bay towards wherever your sensor is going to be.

Just secure everything with zip ties so nothing breaks.

Sounds like a plan, thanks!

 

[Dezerts10]

all the reading and everyone keeps mentioning tapping into the wire harness. How are you guys doing this? With wire splices or butt connectors? Or are you guys cutting wires, stripping them and then soldering them back together?

I am an extra total hack at wiring and using solder but trying to get better at it as its more secure and permanent than splices and butt connectors so just curious.

 

[theesotericone]

all the reading and everyone keeps mentioning tapping into the wire harness. How are you guys doing this? With wire splices or butt connectors? Or are you guys cutting wires, stripping them and then soldering them back together?

I am an extra total hack at wiring and using solder but trying to get better at it as its more secure and permanent than splices and butt connectors so just curious.

Pro=Solder, end cap, shrink tubing

Advanced Amateur=Barrel connections with shrink tubing

Amateur=Barrel connections

Hack=Twist the wires and uses electrical tape

 

[Dezerts10]

Pro=Solder, end cap, shrink tubing

Advanced Amateur=Barrel connections with shrink tubing

Amateur=Barrel connections

Hack=Twist the wires and uses electrical tape

I guess im sort of an advanced amateur then. I have terrible soldering skills and usually end up with a burned finger and an group of soldered wires with a shrink tubing around it. but have no clue what you mean by end cap.

 

[theesotericone]

I guess im sort of an advanced amateur then. I have terrible soldering skills and usually end up with a burned finger and an group of soldered wires with a shrink tubing around it. but have no clue what you mean by end cap.

Also know as a closed end connector. For the record I don't solder much of my interior connections. I use spade connectors a lot so I can take things out fully without having a shit ton of wiring in my way. I do solder all my exterior connections though.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I'm an advanced amateur too then, by those standards . Using barrel connectors and a good pair of crimpers (and I do mean GOOD, don't use the crap that is built into the back of your wire strippers) works very well. Finish off with some heat shrink, and you're good to go.

I have my doubts about the need to solder - the factory does not solder any splices (that I can see), so why should we?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

OK guys ( [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION], [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION]), so I was all ready to tap in the T today until I hit a stumbling block. The Autometer gauge requires the sending unit to be grounded.

I don't really see an elegant/robust way to ground it since it is screwed into a brass T which is then held by two rubber hoses on each end.

What did you guys do to ground the sending unit? I know some sending units are two wire, so you can just ground the negative - but Autometer sending unit is one wire, so the sending unit must be grounded.

I'm beginning to lean towards this option, which has a grounding screw. Or I can just make my own aluminum block, but that seems like a big hassle.

Thoughts?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Decided to add a stainless clamp to the Tee to provide an attach point for the ground wire. Now just need to run some wires to the gauge and I'll be done!

 

[theesotericone]

Decided to add a stainless clamp to the Tee to provide an attach point for the ground wire. Now just need to run some wires to the gauge and I'll be done!

I just put a band clamp around the tee. Then I clamped a spade terminal in between the tee and clamp. I used what I had on hand and it's been fine for 5000 miles. Your way looks nicer though. lol

 

[mtbtim]

I just put a band clamp around the tee. Then I clamped a spade terminal in between the tee and clamp. I used what I had on hand and it's been fine for 5000 miles. Your way looks nicer though. lol

I don't understand the ground wire need. Is it because fluid running through a metal fitting will cause static electricity and you need to ground it? I'll be doing this aftermarket gauge install soon myself so it would be cool to know the reason and where you plan on running the ground wire to.

 

[thegipper]

My ultra gauge does not require a ground for the sending unit. I would just run a wire to the nearest grounding point and call it a day. No biggie at all...

 

[theesotericone]

I don't understand the ground wire need. Is it because fluid running through a metal fitting will cause static electricity and you need to ground it? I'll be doing this aftermarket gauge install soon myself so it would be cool to know the reason and where you plan on running the ground wire to.

I don't know why the ground is required on the sending unit side but it is. I ran mine to my Blue Sea box. All of my aftermarket accessories get grounded there. The common ground from the Blue Sea box goes to the engine in my rig. The reason I ran everything there is it's easier to trace a ground issue if one ever occurs.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I don't understand the ground wire need. Is it because fluid running through a metal fitting will cause static electricity and you need to ground it? I'll be doing this aftermarket gauge install soon myself so it would be cool to know the reason and where you plan on running the ground wire to.

No, it's nothing that exotic . The sending unit is simply a variable resistor (resistance changes with temperature), so they are basically measuring the resistance between the supply side (12V) and the return side (ground).

So the sending unit needs to be grounded to complete the circuit, or else the gauge simply won't work.

Again, this is the design of the Autometer gauge - other gauges have two pins on the sending unit, one for supply, the other for the ground, which makes things easier. With Autometer, you have to ground the sending unit, either by having it thread into something that is grounded (which doesn't work with a Tee supported by rubber lines), or run a wire between the sending unit body and ground (my approach).

 

[4Runner4Leon]

The gauge is wired in and working, yay! The installation of the gauge itself is not quite complete, as evidenced by the by electrical tape:



For those who asked about wiring, all the wiring necessary for the Autometer gauge can be found behind the dash bezel at the two cigarette lighter connectors:



G for illumination +12V, W-G for illumination dimmed ground, GR for switched power, and W-B for ground.

I spliced new wires into these existing wires to go to the Autometer gauge (I used the same color wires as original, to avoid confusion). You can see the spliced wires below, heading towards the bottom of the photo:



Here are the new wires all lined up together:



I routed the wire going to the sending unit by punching a small hole through the rubber grommet around he shifter. That way I didn't have to drill any holes in the metal. See where the purple wires disappears through the rubber piece below?:



This new sending unit wire was routed inside a split loom, and zip tied to the cooling lines along the way, to keep it away from exhaust heat. Here is the termination near the sending unit:



And here is the ground wire (it's probably a temporary routing, I'll redo it later):



Then I routed the new wires through the existing holes in the back of the dash bezel (you can see the holes below, W-B and GR go through the left hole, G and W-G go through the right hole:



And connected them to the gauge.

After all this, I started thinking that I might redo the whole installation and install a T right at the sending unit for the idiot light, to avoid installing a T into the rubber lines, routing the wire along the cooling lines, and having to ground the sensor. More than likely though I'll get steered into other projects and just leave this as is .

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I removed the Autometer temp gauge and replaced it with the MaxTow gauge that [MENTION=2885173]mtbtim][/MENTION] showed above.

I did that for a couple of reasons - I found that in practice, the Autometer gauge's 90 deg sweep was difficult for me to read when glancing down at the gauge. I could easily discern the approximate temp, which may be sufficient, but I found myself staring at it way too long trying to figure out the more exact temp. Not a great idea taking my eyes off the road for that long. The MaxTow gauge's 270 deg sweep, as well as the digital display, make it much easier to read:



As a side benefit, the MaxTow gauge has two wires going to the sending unit, so there is not need to use the hose clamp and a wire to ground the sensor. I like the cleaner installation that goes with that approach.

Autometer sending unit:



vs the MaxTow install:



The wiring of the gauge was quite straightforward. mtbtim, if you're still working on yours and need tips, just pm me or post here.

I don't think the MaxTow gauge matches the Toyota gauges as well as the Autometer gauge did, plus it's still a bit too bright for my tastes, but I'll try to put some window film on it and see if that helps.

In general, I find myself looking at only the digital portion of the gauge, which makes me wonder why I didn't get a digital-only gauge. Has anyone considered/installed a digital-only gauge?

 

[ivopivo]

Need some help wiring my Autometer gauge. It has the 2 bulb wires and the 3 on the gauge. I understand the sender wire goes there, ground I'm putting right next to it, but I'm having trouble understanding 100% the other 3 wires. The 3rd wire for the gauge, "I"... I assume that has to go to a 12v that turns on with ignition/car being on only. If so, which is a good wire by the shifter/center console to top into?

The bulb wires confuse me even more... It says white is for 12v lighting and black is either ground or dimming circuit. I was thinking doing the 12v with the lighter or ashtray bulb but not sure which wire to use, but for the black wire I'm not sure which is a dimming wire.

Any help is appreciated as wiring is definitely not my strong-suit.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Need some help wiring my Autometer gauge. It has the 2 bulb wires and the 3 on the gauge. I understand the sender wire goes there, ground I'm putting right next to it, but I'm having trouble understanding 100% the other 3 wires. The 3rd wire for the gauge, "I"... I assume that has to go to a 12v that turns on with ignition/car being on only. If so, which is a good wire by the shifter/center console to top into?

The bulb wires confuse me even more... It says white is for 12v lighting and black is either ground or dimming circuit. I was thinking doing the 12v with the lighter or ashtray bulb but not sure which wire to use, but for the black wire I'm not sure which is a dimming wire.

Any help is appreciated as wiring is definitely not my strong-suit.

Look at my post above, which also has pictures.

Use existing wiring behind the bezel as follows : connect to G for illumination +12V, W-G for illumination dimmed ground, GR for switched power, and W-B for ground.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk