Transmission pan adapter for temp gage?

[ivopivo]

Look at my post above, which also has pictures.

Use existing wiring behind the bezel as follows : connect to G for illumination +12V, W-G for illumination dimmed ground, GR for switched power, and W-B for ground.

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Thanks Leon, I saw that and wrongly assumed it was for a different gauge, which needed more wires. Just to confirm, GR is grey? So the "I" from gauge goes to GR switched power, W-G goes to bulb black for dimming and G goes to bulb white for illumination?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Thanks Leon, I saw that and wrongly assumed it was for a different gauge, which needed more wires. Just to confirm, GR is grey? So the "I" from gauge goes to GR switched power, W-G goes to bulb black for dimming and G goes to bulb white for illumination?

You're welcome, and yes, that was for the autometer gauge like yours! I don't recall the autometer wire color codes, but yes, GR is gray, so just wire the wires I mentioned to the corresponding autometer wires and you'll be all set .

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[ivopivo]

You're welcome, and yes, that was for the autometer gauge like yours! I don't recall the autometer wire color codes, but yes, GR is gray, so just wire the wires I mentioned to the corresponding autometer wires and you'll be all set .

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Thanks a lot. Last question... If I'm running the gauge ground to near the sensor/sender, can I just put a clamp on the actual brass and put the ground wire in there or put it close to the sender somewhere on the frame/body? I ran 2 wires from the cabin out to the radiator and one is going to the sender, the ground I'm not 100% sure where to put. Thanks again.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Thanks a lot. Last question... If I'm running the gauge ground to near the sensor/sender, can I just put a clamp on the actual brass and put the ground wire in there or put it close to the sender somewhere on the frame/body? I ran 2 wires from the cabin out to the radiator and one is going to the sender, the ground I'm not 100% sure where to put. Thanks again.

That's what I did - stainless clamp around the Tee body, then a short wire from the clamp to a body/frame bolt (inside the split loom shown going to the right):





But if you ran a second wire from the cabin to the sender, then that wire can be used as ground, provided it is connected to ground or a ground wire (e.g. W-B) in the cabin, and to the clamp around the Tee at the sending unit.

 

[ivopivo]

That's what I did - stainless clamp around the Tee body, then a short wire from the clamp to a body/frame bolt (inside the split loom shown going to the right):





But if you ran a second wire from the cabin to the sender, then that wire can be used as ground, provided it is connected to ground or a ground wire (e.g. W-B) in the cabin, and to the clamp around the Tee at the sending unit.

Forgive me but I'm confused about the ground now... To clarify, I'm running 2 wires from the gauge out to the sender... 1 is for the sender and the other is ground. Do I simply connect this ground (near radiator) to the body?

In other words, where close to the sender/radiator should I connect the wire coming from the Ground terminal on the gauge?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Forgive me but I'm confused about the ground now... To clarify, I'm running 2 wires from the gauge out to the sender... 1 is for the sender and the other is ground. Do I simply connect this ground (near radiator) to the body?

In other words, where close to the sender/radiator should I connect the wire coming from the Ground terminal on the gauge?

No worries - you need to connect two things to ground - 1) the gauge itself (which you can do by connecting one of the leads to a W-B wire or some other ground inside the cabin); 2) the sending unit.

For the second, Autometer "assumes" that the sending unit is automatically grounded if it is screwed into the transmission body or pan directly. But because most of us are threading the sending unit into a Tee which is supported by short lengths of rubber hose, the sending unit becomes ungrounded, and a separate wire needs to be provided to ground it.

So you can do one of two things - run a short wire from a clamp around the Tee body to a body or frame bolt (like I showed above), or run a wire from the cabin to the clamp around the Tee, and connect it inside the cabin to the same grounding point as you used to ground the gauge (W-B wire).

Does that make sense?

BTW, I just checked the Autometer instructions, and you are correct, the "I" wire from the gauge goes to the switched 12V source; I used the Gray (GR) wire.

 

[ivopivo]

No worries - you need to connect two things to ground - 1) the gauge itself (which you can do by connecting one of the leads to a W-B wire or some other ground inside the cabin); 2) the sending unit.

For the second, Autometer "assumes" that the sending unit is automatically grounded if it is screwed into the transmission body or pan directly. But because most of us are threading the sending unit into a Tee which is supported by short lengths of rubber hose, the sending unit becomes ungrounded, and a separate wire needs to be provided to ground it.

So you can do one of two things - run a short wire from a clamp around the Tee body to a body or frame bolt (like I showed above), or run a wire from the cabin to the clamp around the Tee, and connect it inside the cabin to the same grounding point as you used to ground the gauge (W-B wire).

Does that make sense?

BTW, I just checked the Autometer instructions, and you are correct, the "I" wire from the gauge goes to the switched 12V source; I used the Gray (GR) wire.

So I ran 2 wires for no reason . Understand completely now... this is what you get for trying to do 3 things at once all WHILE at work taking care of things .

I'm just going to cut the 2nd/ground wire near the sender and then ground both the gauge and sender to the same body point. That way I don't have to ground anything inside the cabin.

Can you just confirm my bulb connection... white 12v goes to Green and black to W-G for dimming?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

So I ran 2 wires for no reason . Understand completely now... this is what you get for trying to do 3 things at once all WHILE at work taking care of things .

I'm just going to cut the 2nd/ground wire near the sender and then ground both the gauge and sender to the same body point. That way I don't have to ground anything inside the cabin.

Can you just confirm my bulb connection... white 12v goes to Green and black to W-G for dimming?

You got it! Or you can connect the second wire to a ground in the cabin, since you had to ground the gauge to something anyway. Either would work.

And yes, 12V white goes to G, and black goes to W-G for dimming. "I" goes to the switched 12V (Gray), and "S" goes to the sensor:

 

[ivopivo]

Well it definitely works. That said, when you guys installed your sensors, how far is the probe into the flow of fluid? Mine is just past the radius (if looking through barbed fitting from the side) and I'm not quite 100% sure if it's enough. I took it for a 15 min drive now and it barely got up to 125* on the gauge. It is however 35 degrees in Chicago and I didn't really get it past 40mph, lots of stop/go so maybe it just didn't get a chance to warm up even more. I'll put everything back together and see how it acts next few weeks.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Thanks a lot. Last question... If I'm running the gauge ground to near the sensor/sender, can I just put a clamp on the actual brass and put the ground wire in there or put it close to the sender somewhere on the frame/body? I ran 2 wires from the cabin out to the radiator and one is going to the sender, the ground I'm not 100% sure where to put. Thanks again.

That sounds right. Don't worry and enjoy it!

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[mtbtim]

Hey Leon, I finally got mine installed. Thanks for answering my questions. Also, thanks to [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] for his helpful input and for [MENTION=152326]mikentosh[/MENTION] with helping with the install.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fT_2szdKXRM" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Hey Leon, I finally got mine installed. Thanks for answering my questions. Also, thanks to [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] for his helpful input and for [MENTION=152326]mikentosh[/MENTION] with helping with the install.

Looks good Tim! I like where you routed the wire through the firewall, I'll keep that in mind for my upcoming wiring upgrades.

One minor point, I recall seeing somewhere a recommendation for orienting the sending unit such that it points down, to avoid a possible air bubble around the sending unit. I don't know how much of a difference it makes in real life, if any.

 

[calnhob]

Whoa, I like the homelink mod. My current garage remote takes up too much space. Do you have a link of the steps/cost?

Thanks

Tim,

For the lighter Oak trim (pillars, overhead console) I went with SEM's Medium Prairie Tan. It was a very close match, see below the color of the Homelink (which I painted) vs the overhead console which is OEM:



For the darker trim, I'm not sure what to use, I'd love to have someone else be the guinea pig (gets expensive at $15/can ).

 

[mtbtim]

Looks good Tim! I like where you routed the wire through the firewall, I'll keep that in mind for my upcoming wiring upgrades.

One minor point, I recall seeing somewhere a recommendation for orienting the sending unit such that it points down, to avoid a possible air bubble around the sending unit. I don't know how much of a difference it makes in real life, if any.

Interesting about the air bubble deal. The probe does stick in fairly far into the brass tee and the system is under constant positive pressure when running so I don't know if this would be a problem or not. The gauge is working fine so I think I'm ok. I did notice it takes it a little while to register anything, especially in the morning. The digital gauge reads 80F until you get over that temp. I don't have any skids on right now and I think cold air blowing on that brass tee can affect the temperature.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Whoa, I like the homelink mod. My current garage remote takes up too much space. Do you have a link of the steps/cost?

Thanks

Thanks! It was pretty simple actually, I just got a generic Homelink unit off Ebay. It only takes two wires to wire it up (positive and ground). Biggest issue was sandwiching it between the roof and the headliner, there was VERY little room - I ended up having to slightly shave the headliner thickness, not fun at all.

About a week after doing this mod, I found out that '01-02 Limiteds came with Homelink built into the driver visor, which to me is a cleaner install (not to mention slide out shields and illuminated mirrors). So I installed one of those, and now have six Homelink buttons. Some day I'll get a new headliner to replace the one I have with the hole in it.

 

[calnhob]

Thanks! It was pretty simple actually, I just got a generic Homelink unit off Ebay. It only takes two wires to wire it up (positive and ground). Biggest issue was sandwiching it between the roof and the headliner, there was VERY little room - I ended up having to slightly shave the headliner thickness, not fun at all.

About a week after doing this mod, I found out that '01-02 Limiteds came with Homelink built into the driver visor, which to me is a cleaner install (not to mention slide out shields and illuminated mirrors). So I installed one of those, and now have six Homelink buttons. Some day I'll get a new headliner to replace the one I have with the hole in it.

is the 01-02 a direct fit? I have a 97. PV huh? Nice place, my sis lives there.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

is the 01-02 a direct fit? I have a 97. PV huh? Nice place, my sis lives there.

Yup, I put the '01 visor into my '97, fits like a glove mechanically. Of course you have to provide the wiring for the light and Homelink, I tapped into the sunroof controls. I have an extra driver side visor if you want, I can sell it real cheap (it's a bit rough, but the Homelink works).