Transmission pan gasket

[brillo_76]

Just shedding some more light on his transmission troubles:

He was just able to piece enough info together from some invoices/receipts and chatting with the previous owner, that the Tundra almost certainly experienced Pink Milkshake about 40k miles ago...

He's guessing that the previous owner didn't really understand what had happened, had a shop look at it, and the shop flushed the transmission and replaced the radiator and called it a day.

Seems like the previous owner just drove the truck without much understanding of the truck's idiosyncrasies, getting it serviced when he noticed any symptoms, and then just sold it before it hit 100k miles, like a lot of people do with any type of vehicle.

Interesting it took about 40k miles for trouble to set in...

And my previous statement about his mileage was incorrect: he bought the truck at about 100k miles, and has added about 40k miles since he bought it. So this transmission failure is happening at 140k miles.

Ah Transmission damage. Happens and why he is having issues. I would probably if the rig is in excellent shape buy a remfg toyota transmission and solve the issue.

 

[cl4Rk]

Ah Transmission damage. Happens and why he is having issues. I would probably if the rig is in excellent shape buy a remfg toyota transmission and solve the issue.

My friend's transmission story, and the fact that someone has dropped my pan, made me want to dig deeper into my truck's history.

I just went through the 11-years of service records (which show a 2019 radiator replacement) and I called up the mechanic that did all the work. (Previous owner went to the same shop during his 11-year ownership.)

The mechanic remembers the truck. His records (and his memory) show that while he did replace the radiator in 2019, it was only because there was a minor coolant leak. He never touched the transmission and no transmission symptoms were ever observed or reported.

So it must've been the first owner who dropped the pan. I don't have service records from or contact information for the first owner.

But it sounds like my transmission has been symptom-free for at least 12 years and for over 100k miles (previous owner bought at 107k miles, and I'm currently at 208500), so I think regular drain-and-fills (along with my Magnefine filter and external cooler) should be just fine.

 

[brillo_76]

My friend's transmission story, and the fact that someone has dropped my pan, made me want to dig deeper into my truck's history.

I just went through the 11-years of service records (which show a 2019 radiator replacement) and I called up the mechanic that did all the work. (Previous owner went to the same shop during his 11-year ownership.)

The mechanic remembers the truck. His records (and his memory) show that while he did replace the radiator in 2019, it was only because there was a minor coolant leak. He never touched the transmission and no transmission symptoms were ever observed or reported.

So it must've been the first owner who dropped the pan. I don't have service records from or contact information for the first owner.

But it sounds like my transmission has been symptom-free for at least 12 years and for over 100k miles (previous owner bought at 107k miles, and I'm currently at 208500), so I think regular drain-and-fills (along with my Magnefine filter and external cooler) should be just fine.

Always good news.

 

[3bears]

when I get a 4runner that has little records. i will drop pan and service filter, clean, and then do a flush with syntetic and install a magnafine. 260k on the one I totaled with original trans, 245k on the 2001 I sold but it had had the tranny replaced with a used one by previous owner, current one at 225k and original trans. after the above service, I dont drop the pan again unless and issue, constantly changing fluid and the magnafine should take care of it.

i have done full flushes on many other cars ( volvo , bmw and chevy included) and never had an issue after a flush, bt I never did a power flush other than engine itself pumping fluid ( not those big machine flush things) and I have never had an issue....knock on wood
ive also never developed any leaks switching from dino to synthetic on a 4 runner
my engine, trans , transfer case and both differentials I run synthetic.

as far as your original question on gasket or FIPG....Id go FIPG, and I think if it has a rubber gasket on it now, chances are it has a non OEM filter too as they are often sold in kits.

 

[3bears]

I also want to add....that my first one I seriously believed it had had the milkshake, because after I bought it I got the dealer reports showing that at about 130k it went in with a driveability issue and got a new radiator and a trans flush. I bought at about 145 k. was real worried when I got those print outs.. After I got it, I did the needed service and flush, and regular changes and never had an issue at over 100k that I put on it. And I drove in the mountains and in harsh weather conditions. I also put a trans cooler on at the time. But one winter I by passed it cause tranny temps were staying too low according to my torque pro app. Too low can be as bad as too high I have read.
In the months I have owned the past 2 I have never seen tran temps get up high.. few days ago when it was snowing and minus 30 it barely got to "normal temp".so the current one is most likely not getting a cooler added

however..on the first one.the drain plug was stripped and just spun in my fingers, so it got a new pan at the time. It also had 2 stripped pan bolts. Ive wondered if a rubber gasket would torque the same...so another reason I stuck with FIPG

 

[cl4Rk]

But one winter I by passed it cause tranny temps were staying too low according to my torque pro app. Too low can be as bad as too high I have read.

Interesting.

Where I live it’s not unheard of to see sustained temps below 0*F in the winter (with salted roads), but also weeks of more than 100*F in the summer with no temperature drops at all throughout the night (and high humidity.)

So I definitely want the cooler ran in series for the summer temps, but maybe I should cover up the external cooler with something (cardboard?) during long cold spells?

EDIT: The B&M SuperCooler I’m running does feature an automatic low temperature bypass, so maybe that will be good enough. It hasn’t been very cold here lately (20s-40s) so my ATF temps have been looking perfect. I guess I’ll find out later this winter.

- - - -
Note: that combo of salted roads in the winter alternating with high humidity summers is why so many 4Runners have rusted out over here. Most only ones left are either about to break in half the next time they get put up on a lift, or they’re survivors/restorations. Hence, my frame swap!

 

[brillo_76]

I also want to add....that my first one I seriously believed it had had the milkshake, because after I bought it I got the dealer reports showing that at about 130k it went in with a driveability issue and got a new radiator and a trans flush. I bought at about 145 k. was real worried when I got those print outs.. After I got it, I did the needed service and flush, and regular changes and never had an issue at over 100k that I put on it. And I drove in the mountains and in harsh weather conditions. I also put a trans cooler on at the time. But one winter I by passed it cause tranny temps were staying too low according to my torque pro app. Too low can be as bad as too high I have read.
In the months I have owned the past 2 I have never seen tran temps get up high.. few days ago when it was snowing and minus 30 it barely got to "normal temp".so the current one is most likely not getting a cooler added

however..on the first one.the drain plug was stripped and just spun in my fingers, so it got a new pan at the time. It also had 2 stripped pan bolts. Ive wondered if a rubber gasket would torque the same...so another reason I stuck with FIPG

I would imagine would torque similar but that's a valid point. Lots of people do not realize that if you add antiseize etc. You have to drop the torque value.

Most 10mm hex heads into aluminum are 13 or 18ft /lbs.. [ can't recall of the top of my head] anyways I dug around and mostly depending on the antiseize the mfg suggesting a 25% drop on the torque spec if the bolts are antiseized..


With low torque like this it's better to convert to inch pounds instead of torque because what's mostly happening is the bolts are being over torqued from the inaccuracies of the low ft pounds. Thus they may be torging at 25 fts pounds or 20 something which is just going to rip the aluminum threads out.

The pan bolts just need to be snug and bear to go on the easy side as it's a steel bolt into aluminum threads...

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[thegipper]

I'm on team rubber gasket. I've used them on my 4runner for many years now with zero leaks and zero issues. You never know when you may need to crack open the pan again and not having to scrap away all of that FIPG was worth it to me.