TRD/Bistein question w/ pics

[jeredcollins]

Is my isolator installed wrong? I'm getting a really bad clanking noise and after analyzing and re-torqing everything back down I noticed that my top plates don't look the same. Look at the unevenness and gap I have on my left strut and compare that to the flush fit on the right strut. The noise and movement is coming from my left side of the vehicle. I've already changed out cv axles and inner/outer tie rods to rule them out.

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[Andy in Pa]

I would say that could be causing the clunk. The rubber looks like its squeezing out, and the metal surfaces could be hitting when going over bumps. We are seeing different parts of the coilover though. The left one shows the very end of the spring, while the right one does not. I would see if the right one looks the same where the spring ends. Seems like a possibility to me though.

 

[jeredcollins]

I would say that could be causing the clunk. The rubber looks like its squeezing out, and the metal surfaces could be hitting when going over bumps. We are seeing different parts of the coilover though. The left one shows the very end of the spring, while the right one does not. I would see if the right one looks the same where the spring ends. Seems like a possibility to me though.

I'll have to pull them both out to see. I can't remember if they both looked the same. I'm not sure if the bolt patterns will let me flip the left strut 180* but that way it should look the same as the right strut as far as orientation of the spring.

 

[westdiablo]

The instructions say to mount with the bottom coil-end outward on both sides. You rotate the coil and the seat to accomplish this. You have pics of the tops, but obviously the bottoms are not both the same.

This orientation needs to be done while the springs are squeezed with the compressor. You have to have the bottom eye and top bolts oriented to one another correctly, and the spring rotated correctly. Three moving parts to hold in place as you unscrew the spring compressor.

And, of course, the two sides are mirror images.

Get that right first, then see if you still have an issue.


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[JohnOfTheJungle]

I had something similar with my last set of coils that were installed by a shop. I thought it was causing a clunk as well, but someone else said it wasn't - turns out it wasn't causing it - it was a loose bolt in my driver's side rear upper control arm.

2nd time it was a slightly loose front sway bar end link bolt where it attaches to the frame.

 

[jeredcollins]

The instructions say to mount with the bottom coil-end outward on both sides. You rotate the coil and the seat to accomplish this. You have pics of the tops, but obviously the bottoms are not both the same.

This orientation needs to be done while the springs are squeezed with the compressor. You have to have the bottom eye and top bolts oriented to one another correctly, and the spring rotated correctly. Three moving parts to hold in place as you unscrew the spring compressor.

And, of course, the two sides are mirror images.

Get that right first, then see if you still have an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the help. I’m almost wondering if I just turned the strut 180* if I would be good or not?

 

[jeredcollins]

I had something similar with my last set of coils that were installed by a shop. I thought it was causing a clunk as well, but someone else said it wasn't - turns out it wasn't causing it - it was a loose bolt in my driver's side rear upper control arm.

2nd time it was a slightly loose front sway bar end link bolt where it attaches to the frame.

When you heard the clunking noise did you feel something shift as well? Mine feels like something is in a bind and eventually it lets go.

 

[Kanoe]

Those are strange looking top plates with those super long bolts. What brand are they?

In a car type macpherson strut, spring orientation can cause clunking. Not sure if it could in the 4runner coil over setup. It wouldn't hurt to get them clocked properly.

 

[jeredcollins]

Those are strange looking top plates with those super long bolts. What brand are they?

In a car type macpherson strut, spring orientation can cause clunking. Not sure if it could in the 4runner coil over setup. It wouldn't hurt to get them clocked properly.

They are TRD Tundra front springs with Tundra 5100 Bilsteins. I added the 10mm top plate spacer too. I’m going to cut down those bolts soon. No need for all that bolt length there.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

When you heard the clunking noise did you feel something shift as well? Mine feels like something is in a bind and eventually it lets go.

Yes definitely - here’s a video I made, it would usually happen when going off camber and turning, like up a driveway. When it would happen once it usually wouldn’t happen again for a while unless I turned in the opposite direction and went off camber:

YouTube

Here is my thread on troubleshooting it:

Front end clunking sound/bind feel while turning and going over bumps

The sway bar clunk felt sort of similar, but not as pronounced m, and not with the same action of turning and going off camber. I was also able to more easily isolate it to the front passenger side by sound alone. Whereas the rear control arm clunk was tricky.




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[westdiablo]

Thanks for the help. I’m almost wondering if I just turned the strut 180* if I would be good or not?

You can't. The top bolts won't line up. Turning the bottom eye alone won't do the trick.

You have to squeeze the springs to get all three elements lined up.

Ask me how I know this...on and off the truck a couple times till I got my head around doing it right. Clunk went away.

As others have said...check that other stuff too.


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[jeredcollins]

The instructions say to mount with the bottom coil-end outward on both sides. You rotate the coil and the seat to accomplish this. You have pics of the tops, but obviously the bottoms are not both the same.

This orientation needs to be done while the springs are squeezed with the compressor. You have to have the bottom eye and top bolts oriented to one another correctly, and the spring rotated correctly. Three moving parts to hold in place as you unscrew the spring compressor.

And, of course, the two sides are mirror images.

Get that right first, then see if you still have an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What instructions are you referring towards? Sonoran Steel says the beginning of the coil should be faced towards the frame, which is opposite of what you’re saying to do?

Checked my orientation for both springs and they are facing different directions. Oddly enough, according to Sonoran Steel’s install directions it looks like my driver side was assembled correctly. My drivers side is the side causing issues. Wheelers off-road assembled one of them wrong and after addressing the issue they won’t return my phone calls or return my emails. Pretty frustrating that I paid for them for assemble the shock and then find out it was assembled wrong. They claim they have a warranty but I’ve had no success with them honoring it so far. This lift has been a nightmare so far.

 

[jeredcollins]

The instructions say to mount with the bottom coil-end outward on both sides. You rotate the coil and the seat to accomplish this. You have pics of the tops, but obviously the bottoms are not both the same.

This orientation needs to be done while the springs are squeezed with the compressor. You have to have the bottom eye and top bolts oriented to one another correctly, and the spring rotated correctly. Three moving parts to hold in place as you unscrew the spring compressor.

And, of course, the two sides are mirror images.

Get that right first, then see if you still have an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a pic of both lower springs. The first pic is my driver's side. Notice the start of the coil is facing the frame. The 2nd pic the start of the passenger coil is facing my tire.

Driver Strut:
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Passenger Strut:
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[jeredcollins]

You can't. The top bolts won't line up. Turning the bottom eye alone won't do the trick.

You have to squeeze the springs to get all three elements lined up.

Ask me how I know this...on and off the truck a couple times till I got my head around doing it right. Clunk went away.

As others have said...check that other stuff too.


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So, after watching Speedy Garage's build with the exact same setup he has the coil ends facing out like you mentioned. This makes sense because if you look at the end of my driver coil, it appears it's laying flush against the frame. I suspect that's what is causing the bind and pop I'm getting. I'm going to rent a coil compressor and turn the spring 180* and see if that does the trick.

Link to Speedy's build.

YouTube

 

[CaboRunner]

So, after watching Speedy Garage's build with the exact same setup he has the coil ends facing out like you mentioned. This makes sense because if you look at the end of my driver coil, it appears it's laying flush against the frame. I suspect that's what is causing the bind and pop I'm getting. I'm going to rent a coil compressor and turn the spring 180* and see if that does the trick.

Link to Speedy's build.

YouTube

All wrong info above! No need to do anything but rotate the shock. All the top bolts are equal distance apart and can be installed/clocked in any way you want to get the spring in the correct position. Once the top is bolted in put a screwdriver through the bottom eyelet and rotate to fit in the lower mount. Super easy

 

[phattyduck]

The coils should be placed however it best clears the upper ball joint/knuckle at full droop. I had to try a few different rotations to find a setup that cleared at full droop and turning lock to lock.

-Charlie