Trd Pro Problem with Skid Plate

Trd pro skid plate

I installed on of the trd skid plates on my FJ Cruiser. When installing the bolts they would stick and bind. I solved the problem by buying a 10 x 1.25 tap and running it through the holes then I could finger tighten them. Toyota has a habit of leaving some of the frame holes pretty nasty.
 
One of the front skid plate bolts is stripped now. Wow, not having a good experience with this TRD PRO. I unbolted the front brackets running from the frame to the radiator support. Then I placed a tee nut in-between the front bracket and radiator support and put the supports back in. The crappy thing was, is that the bolts from Toyota are M10x1.25. No tee nut (or other solution) I could find was that pitch. Changed the bolt to M10x1.5 and placed a flange nut to fit. Worked ok. Only temporary until I can get it 1 hour to the dealership. Not sure what they are going to do. Got the tack welded nut out, looks like it was barely welded into place. Wondering when the other one will come loose.
 
I installed on of the trd skid plates on my FJ Cruiser. When installing the bolts they would stick and bind. I solved the problem by buying a 10 x 1.25 tap and running it through the holes then I could finger tighten them. Toyota has a habit of leaving some of the frame holes pretty nasty.

I did the same thing as described here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1798124-post58.html
When I got my TRD Skid Plate in and noticed some resistance in the bolts...after I chased all threads, all went fine!
 
Hey, is the TRD Skid plate worth it? Or am I better off with some aftermarket ones (and maybe get the whole set, front to rear.....whole 9 yards)?
 
Hey, is the TRD Skid plate worth it? Or am I better off with some aftermarket ones (and maybe get the whole set, front to rear.....whole 9 yards)?

I just got mine in this week and was really blown away on how beefy it is. It's made of 1/4" aluminum so it's pretty light but strong as s**t. Steel would probably be stronger but would add a lot of extra weight.
 
Just took my TRDP to the dealer and they said that the bolts were put in too tight, causing a blind nut to come unwelded and a bolt stripped. They said it was whoever put it in when they did my transmission. The whole ENTIRE lower radiator support has to be replaced, at a collision center, unwelded then rewelded back in. The whole AC condenser has to come out, radiator, and probably a bunch of body parts as well in order to get it in. I'm not happy about this. Lesson #1 - don't over tighten the skid plate bolts.
 
I just installed this skid plate and can see how it's easily cross threaded, you have to loosely install all of the bolts and tighten them one at a time. Using power tools will only almost guarantee cross threading.
 
Hey guys / gals,

Do yourself a favor and do this even if you already have a TRD Pro Skid plate installed.....

To avoid a bad issue, go to your local hardware store and pick up 2 items or order them online.....
M10 X 1.25 bottom tap and a M10 X 1.25 hex die to chase all bolt holes and chase the threads on the bolts to prevent this from happening again.
When I installed mine, there was resistance the further in the bolt was threaded.
The new bolts for the skid plate are longer than the original ones I removed!

I stopped at that point and purchased those items. You wouldn't believe the crap that was in the treaded holes.
This is probably the culprit when these skids are installed at the port with power tool.
OH, do not use power tools to install these. You are asking for a problem.

just sayin'
 
Hey guys / gals,

Do yourself a favor and do this even if you already have a TRD Pro Skid plate installed.....

To avoid a bad issue, go to your local hardware store and pick up 2 items or order them online.....
M10 X 1.25 bottom tap and a M10 X 1.25 hex die to chase all bolt holes and chase the threads on the bolts to prevent this from happening again.
When I installed mine, there was resistance the further in the bolt was threaded.
The new bolts for the skid plate are longer than the original ones I removed!

I stopped at that point and purchased those items. You wouldn't believe the crap that was in the treaded holes.
This is probably the culprit when these skids are installed at the port with power tool.
OH, do not use power tools to install these. You are asking for a problem.

just sayin'

Excellent idea.
 
This is the fix:

Take vehicle to trusted body shop.
A bigger hole may need to be drilled.
Grind down around the hole and weld a flange nut in to fit the M10x1.25 bolts.
Grind that down and repeat for other side (to make them equal)
Have them repaint it to look factory.

I'm thinking about having the thick washers welded in as well to not have to mess with those anymore.
 
Took my skid plate off to paint it. Not sure if I have an issue or not. First front bolt seemed to be stripped and was not coming out. I stopped and re-read this thread. It didn't really help. I noticed something spinning above the plate when turning the bolt (bad visibility above the plate, but shined flash light in there) . I leaned into the plate with my forearm to get some friction, the spinning stopped, and i was able to proceed and get the bolt out. I will chase the bolt and threads before inserting as recommended here. Hope to avoid purchase of new bolts, but will if necessary. Added a pic of all the pieces, including extra parts I was not expecting...
 

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Took my skid plate off to paint it. Not sure if I have an issue or not. First front bolt seemed to be stripped and was not coming out. I stopped and re-read this thread. It didn't really help. I noticed something spinning above the plate when turning the bolt (bad visibility above the plate, but shined flash light in there) . I leaned into the plate with my forearm to get some friction, the spinning stopped, and i was able to proceed and get the bolt out. I will chase the bolt and threads before inserting as recommended here. Hope to avoid purchase of new bolts, but will if necessary. Added a pic of all the pieces, including extra parts I was not expecting...

Those bolts look stripped. You didn't need to take the Allen screws out. The problem is the blind nut welded inside the lower radiator support. Is that there?

PM Sent to you Viking.
 
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Took my skid plate off to paint it. Not sure if I have an issue or not. First front bolt seemed to be stripped and was not coming out. I stopped and re-read this thread. It didn't really help. I noticed something spinning above the plate when turning the bolt (bad visibility above the plate, but shined flash light in there) . I leaned into the plate with my forearm to get some friction, the spinning stopped, and i was able to proceed and get the bolt out. I will chase the bolt and threads before inserting as recommended here. Hope to avoid purchase of new bolts, but will if necessary. Added a pic of all the pieces, including extra parts I was not expecting...

The front bolts will only come out so far because they have a spacer and a keeper on the bolt to hold that spacer in place. Now, if the bolt is stripped or messed up you will need to chase the bolt or purchase new ones. It's hard to tell from that angle if the threads are stripped.
By all means, chase the bolt holes with a tap as specified above.


Hope this helps!
 
The front bolts will only come out so far because they have a spacer and a keeper on the bolt to hold that spacer in place. Now, if the bolt is stripped or messed up you will need to chase the bolt or purchase new ones. It's hard to tell from that angle if the threads are stripped.
By all means, chase the bolt holes with a tap as specified above.


Hope this helps!

The problem with mine wasn't that. The blind nut came unwelded from within the radiator support. But hopefully chasing your threads will fix the issue. Mine didn't have any threads to chase at all.
 
The problem with mine wasn't that. The blind nut came unwelded from within the radiator support. But hopefully chasing your threads will fix the issue. Mine didn't have any threads to chase at all.

Yep, I knew you had a totally different issue with yours!
Thanks for sharing !
 
thanks for all your input. so yes, the bolts are stripped, and no, the nuts did not pop off....I don't think i'll be able to chase the bolt threads that are not there (as one of you stated...) but I will chase the nuts, and with new bolts, hopefully i'll be back in business.
 
I couldn't tell if they were stripped or not, that's why I stated "you will need to chase the bolt or purchase new ones".
Obviously, you can't chase a stripped bolt so you'll definitely have to do the alternative!
It's amazing how many are having issues with these bolts.
Happy motoring!
 
Here were the parts I got at Amazon for my fix (see pics). I first tried the still good rear bolts with in the front nuts, they would not go in, so I chased the front nuts with the attached device in the pic. Now they go in just fine.

I then chased the bolts, and they definitely need to be repaired/fixed quite a bit by the die. As it stands they 'may' work. If I use them I'll swap the 'fixed' front bolts to the rear and use the bolts from the rear up front. not sure if new $32 bolts (PT938-00140-AA) at dealership or ~$28 online with shipping will be worth it. I'll may snug up the skid with the old bolts and see if I feel comfortable with it, checking often to see if they are holding. if not, i'll resort to the new bolt purchase.

Attached a pic of the painted skid. I think this will look sick on my Super White (awaiting final clear coat).
 

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skid plate all back in place. I like the result. old bolts swapped around as previously described. holding good so far, i'll check them periodically. didn't apply the 'thin' washers. they would not go on easily. what's a project without a few extra pieces when done, right?
 

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