Trd Pro Problem with Skid Plate

[stir_fry_boy]

Got my skid plate fixed yesterday.

Here's what the dealership did, and I watched:

Took out skid plate bracket bolted from frame to radiator support (1x14 mm bolt).
Drilled a hole big enough into the radiator support that would hide a M10x1.25 flange nut using a unibit.

Welded flange nut to the bracket that was taken out, and paint it. This way if anything else happens, its a bracket that can be replaced and not an entire radiator support. I wanted to do the least amount with the radiator support as possible.

Looks perfect, and totally sturdy.

It took about 30 minutes for them to do, with no body shop. Overall I wish it would have never happened, but no one will be able to tell the difference unless you take both brackets off and compare them.

Besides chasing the threads, put a little anti seize on the bolts every time they are undone to prevent any issue, especially if you are off roading a lot.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

It happened to me

So I decided to take the front TRD Pro skid off today to clean up all of the caked on mud I have accumulated. I have read this post a long time ago so I knew to use hand tools. I removed the TRD Skid with hand tools and had a little bit of trouble removing the driver side front bolt.

Anyway the driver side front backing nut that is tack welded inside the boxed cross-bar of the radiator support frame came loose on me.

I see where everyone is posting that the bolt and nut pattern are M10x1.25. I think I am going with the idea of putting in a knurled Rivet Nut through the hole in the radiator support frame.

Problem is I can't seem to find the M10x1.25 sized ones through basic Google Searches.

I see M8x1.25 or M10x1.5

Anyone know where it's possible to find the right rivnut insert?

 

[Cheers!]

Can't you drill, tap and helicoil?

 

[ic0517]

I went to the McMaster-Carr website, I could find M10x1.25 nuts and helicoils, but rivet nuts only came in M10x1.5.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

Can't you drill, tap and helicoil?

Looks like that's the way I'll have to go. Time to learn a new set of skills.

I'll see what I can find at Grainger or McMaster-Carr (thanks [MENTION=92067]ic0517[/MENTION])

 

[Knight-Errant]

30 N·m (306 kgf·cm, 22ft·lbf)

When I installed the TRD skid plate I wrote down all the torque measurements (twice) on the back so I wouldn't forget. On set is upside down on the vertical part of the skid-plate so I can read it looking down at it.

I also added Kilroy to the back because, America.

 

[lukeskywalker]

Just installed the TRD skid plate on my 4runner. Just a warning to all, the rear two bolts are long and can easily be cross-threaded.

I just used the bolts from the old temporary one, and it seems to be holding up fine.

 

[Saker]

Just installed the TRD skid plate on my 4runner. Just a warning to all, the rear two bolts are long and can easily be cross-threaded.

I just used the bolts from the old temporary one, and it seems to be holding up fine.

How many rounds did you make on the new bolts before you think they were cross threaded?
If you make 2 complete rounds, they were straight.

More than likely, you ran into the same scenario that I did when I installed my skid. I had to purchase a tap to chase the threads in the mounting hose, as there was some rust and crud beyond where the OEM bolts were.
M10X1.25 Tap did the trick.

BTW, I would use the bolts that came with the skid plate, they are long for a reason!

See this post: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1798124-post58.html

 

[coltm4]

Thanks for the tips. I had a couple holes that were rough and needed chasing. :hatsoff:

 

[jmmec]

I bought a 2016 TuRD back in July and used the very helpful info in this thread to chase the nuts & bolts that hold the front skid plate. As others have reported, the threads on the bolts & nuts were terrible, but now they are smooth as silk. This is the first time I've chased threads, but it was super easy after watching some videos online for training.

I bought everything below from Amazon, and applied a light coat of anti-seize on the bolts when reinstalling the skid plate.

Century Drill and Tool 98504 Hex Die Stock, 1-Inch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UUAJN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT171444 USA Made Hex Carbon Rethreading Die, 1 Hex OD, M10 x 1.25"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTQT3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hanson 12002 T-Handle Tap Wrenches

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT211088 USA Made Bottom Tap, D5 Limit, Metric 4 Flute, Ground Threads, High Speed Steel, M10 x 1.25 Size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTQIDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hot Max 27050 Tap Magic Cutting Fluid, 4 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y2PTK0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7VGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[coltm4]

I bought a 2016 TuRD back in July and used the very helpful info in this thread to chase the nuts & bolts that hold the front skid plate. As others have reported, the threads on the bolts & nuts were terrible, but now they are smooth as silk. This is the first time I've chased threads, but it was super easy after watching some videos online for training.

I bought everything below from Amazon, and applied a light coat of anti-seize on the bolts when reinstalling the skid plate.

Century Drill and Tool 98504 Hex Die Stock, 1-Inch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UUAJN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT171444 USA Made Hex Carbon Rethreading Die, 1 Hex OD, M10 x 1.25"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTQT3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hanson 12002 T-Handle Tap Wrenches

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Kodiak Cutting Tools KCT211088 USA Made Bottom Tap, D5 Limit, Metric 4 Flute, Ground Threads, High Speed Steel, M10 x 1.25 Size

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BTQIDQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hot Max 27050 Tap Magic Cutting Fluid, 4 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y2PTK0U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FW7VGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not to be a smartass, but wouldn't it be cheaper to buy 4 new bolts from toyota than to by a die to cut bolt threads? The tap is useful only because you don't want to have to drill out and weld new nut. Thanks for the list though.

 

[NC-Chris]

Is this only a TRD problem or is this an issue on all 4Runners? I just got a 16 Trail Premium about 2 weeks ago.

 

[DKRunner]

Not a problem on all. Used a little anti seize and the short original bolts for the rear and had no issues. I didn't see the need for the long bolts in the rear. The only benefit is that it gives you a little more fudge factor for fitment when installing due to the trd skid not having the hooks like the factory tin.

 

[jmmec]

Not to be a smartass, but wouldn't it be cheaper to buy 4 new bolts from toyota than to by a die to cut bolt threads? The tap is useful only because you don't want to have to drill out and weld new nut. Thanks for the list though.

As mamma always said, the easy button is for sissies. lol

Chasing threads and rethreading bolts was fun in a strange kind of way.

 

[Cymon]

I was working under the hood today and dropped a clip onto the skid plate, so I removed it but had some trouble getting it back on. Can someone explain to me why there's that flange welded on one of the front bolts, but not the other? It everyone else's like that?

I can’t speak for the flange but you may want to read this if you haven’t already.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/239833-if-you-have-trd-skid-plate-read.html

 

[transistor]

I can’t speak for the flange but you may want to read this if you haven’t already.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/239833-if-you-have-trd-skid-plate-read.html

Just read that! I'll be extra careful putting it back on, if it's not already ruined by the dealership. Somehow I'm missing a bolt after only 2 oil changes, so...

 

[Saker]

I was working under the hood today and dropped a clip onto the skid plate, so I removed it but had some trouble getting it back on. Can someone explain to me why there's that flange welded on one of the front bolts, but not the other? It everyone else's like that?

If this is the welded flange you are speaking of on "one of the front bolts", then both should look exactly the same in that location .
Bolt with flange, aluminum spacer and the retainer.
The retainer is not welded, you can turn it and screw it down to the spacer prior to installing the skid plate. There should be one on each bolt.
A replacement kit part # is: Toyota (PT938-00140-AA)
See I'm still trying to help you after you think the other post was a anal reply @ http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2965291-post2.html! :shrug:


Hope this helps.

 

[secretskwirrel]

Got my skid plate fixed yesterday.

Here's what the dealership did, and I watched:

Took out skid plate bracket bolted from frame to radiator support (1x14 mm bolt).
Drilled a hole big enough into the radiator support that would hide a M10x1.25 flange nut using a unibit.

Welded flange nut to the bracket that was taken out, and paint it. This way if anything else happens, its a bracket that can be replaced and not an entire radiator support. I wanted to do the least amount with the radiator support as possible.

Looks perfect, and totally sturdy.

It took about 30 minutes for them to do, with no body shop. Overall I wish it would have never happened, but no one will be able to tell the difference unless you take both brackets off and compare them.

Besides chasing the threads, put a little anti seize on the bolts every time they are undone to prevent any issue, especially if you are off roading a lot.

How did your skid plate mount repair hold up? I would think because you welded the new flange nut to the bracket and not the radiator support, the skid plate may get some vibration or movement on that corner? I'm trying to figure out how to fix mine.

 

[osugsxr]

How many rounds did you make on the new bolts before you think they were cross threaded?
If you make 2 complete rounds, they were straight.

More than likely, you ran into the same scenario that I did when I installed my skid. I had to purchase a tap to chase the threads in the mounting hose, as there was some rust and crud beyond where the OEM bolts were.
M10X1.25 Tap did the trick.

BTW, I would use the bolts that came with the skid plate, they are long for a reason!

See this post: Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum - View Single Post - TRD Pro parts

One of the retaining washers broke off while removing the skid plate. The front spacer is loose but i did reinstall it without the retaining washer. Do you know the size of the retaining washer needed, vs buying a new trd skid plate bolt set. Thanks,


Anyone use resz heavy duty skid plate before? Thinking of buying one off secondary market. Able to tell if it was for kdss or not? Beginning to like the idea of not removing the skid plate during an oil change.


***9/16 correct size lock washer internal tooth ??

 

[papadop88]

So took my rig to Richard at RS Automotive Works in Glendale. He's the absolute man. Not only is he OCD with my rig, but he's honest. I took it in to change my oil and he took a look at it and welded in a new nut, smoothed everything out, and reinstalled. Everything lines up and installs perfectly again.

He also chased all the other threads because the dealer had stripped all of them basically. Easy peasy.