Trick for Removing Wheels

[DaveyBoy]

Any secret squirrel tricks on removing the wheels on a 4th gen?
The wheel seems like it's welded to it's mating surface on the rotor!


One side came off ok, the other side is stuck solid.

 

[mosha20]

Any secret squirrel tricks on removing the wheels on a 4th gen?
The wheel seems like it's welded to it's mating surface on the rotor!


One side came off ok, the other side is stuck solid.

Kick it... happened with my old Audi, you may need a few swift kicks but it will come off. Other than that, no idea.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Kick it... happened with my old Audi, you may need a few swift kicks but it will come off. Other than that, no idea.

Nope...kicked it with anger over and over, then tried my rubber mallet.
Gave up and put the lugs back on.

I did spray it with PB Blaster and haven't retried it yet.

 

[mosha20]

Nope...kicked it with anger over and over, then tried my rubber mallet.
Gave up and put the lugs back on.

I did spray it with PB Blaster and haven't retried it yet.

Hopefully that helps. Wish I could help but I don't really know anything else that would work. Good Luck!

 

[riverider]

Any secret squirrel tricks on removing the wheels on a 4th gen?
The wheel seems like it's welded to it's mating surface on the rotor!


One side came off ok, the other side is stuck solid.

A good wack with a rubber hammer might help.

 

[Will_4R]

Let the PB Blaster work for a day or two and try again. If that doesn't work, repeat until it does.

 

[Teqeeler]

Had this happen recently on my car. Couldn't budge the wheel off for the life of me.

I grabbed a long 2x4 put the butt end of the wood on the inside of the tire and just took a hammer and pounded the wood, came right off.

 

[DaveyBoy]

Had this happen recently on my car. Couldn't budge the wheel off for the life of me.

I grabbed a long 2x4 put the butt end of the wood on the inside of the tire and just took a hammer and pounded the wood, came right off.

This could be the best suggestion yet! :frog:

Thanks.

 

[ToyTech99]

This could be the best suggestion yet! :frog:

Thanks.

Here's the secret answer that you've been looking for:

If everything else has failed, simply loosen all 6 lugnuts and drive your 4Runner up and down your driveway. If it's a front wheel that's stuck, as soon as you turn the wheel and move it should break free. If it's a rear wheel, it might take a bit of back and forth before it breaks free.

IMPORTANT: make sure you only SLIGHTLY loosen the lugs. Don't back them off a lot!

 

[DaveyBoy]

Here's the secret answer that you've been looking for:

If everything else has failed, simply loosen all 6 lugnuts and drive your 4Runner up and down your driveway. If it's a front wheel that's stuck, as soon as you turn the wheel and move it should break free. If it's a rear wheel, it might take a bit of back and forth before it breaks free.

IMPORTANT: make sure you only SLIGHTLY loosen the lugs. Don't back them off a lot!

Does your lawyer know you are dispensing this sort of advice?
I wish I had thought of this after wasting those hours.

Thanks! :cheers:

 

[ExtraSlow]

Once you get the wheels off, put a coating of anti-seize compound on the mating surfaces and you won't have this problem next time.

 

[ToyTech99]

Does your lawyer know you are dispensing this sort of advice?
I wish I had thought of this after wasting those hours.

Thanks! :cheers:

Yeah, I should have included a disclaimer: Attempt this at your own risk


Seriously, if you're going to do it, be careful. You only want to break the lugs loose enough to allow the wheel to move slightly. The last thing you want to happen is to make the wheel pop off.

It's a trick I learned long ago from my neighbor who was a Red and Tan Bus mechanic.

 

[TechWrench]

Here's the secret answer that you've been looking for:

If everything else has failed, simply loosen all 6 lugnuts and drive your 4Runner up and down your driveway. If it's a front wheel that's stuck, as soon as you turn the wheel and move it should break free. If it's a rear wheel, it might take a bit of back and forth before it breaks free.

IMPORTANT: make sure you only SLIGHTLY loosen the lugs. Don't back them off a lot!

I use a slightly different version of this method. I loosen the lugs, just a turn or so, and with the vehicle on the ground, I rock it from side to side a couple of times. The wheel usually breaks free pretty quickly, without any chance of lug stud damage.

 

[midnight runner]

Your rotors must be even more welded on.

My truck is from MA. Rotors were a PIA to get off. I whacked it and whacked it with a mallet. Then I found a bigger mallet. I cleaned off all the rust/buildup so everything is easy now!

 

[wolfgang]

As another poster said - after wire brushing the center hub area, coat with anti-seize compound (I use it on plug threads too). Sounds like you aren't rotating your tires every 6k or so.:bash:

 

[Annoyed]

Does your lawyer know you are dispensing this sort of advice?

I can just imagine this coming before a judge in my imaginary sane world.

Judge: "Ok, you're suing because you damaged your vehicle or injured yourself doing something that someone on an Internet message board suggested?"

Plaintiff: Yes, your honor.

Judge: "10 minute laughter recess!" (bangs gavel)

11 minutes later..
Judge: "Case dismissed!"


Of course, in the crazy world we really live in, the plaintiff might win...



More seriously.. Galvanic corrosion can be a bastage. Last time I had this problem, I ensure the vehicle was properly supported w/jackstands and took a 10 pound sledgehammer to the back side of the tire, rotating it 1/4 turn between whacks. Took 3 whacks.

 

[TC4Rnr]

just remember to clean up the contact surface Very Very well. reason being our Toyota trucks the brake rotors are sandwiched between the hub and wheel. if you have junks stuck between them, you will have 2 problems:
a.) warped rotors
b.) un-even tire tread wear.

the guys at my local Distount Tire store always use a wire cup on a die grinder to clean up the rotor around the studs, it never fails.

a thin coat of bearing grease or gear lube also worked well for me. but since i rotate my tires on ever oil change, they wouldn't stuck that big any way.

 

[DaveyBoy]

As another poster said - after wire brushing the center hub area, coat with anti-seize compound (I use it on plug threads too). Sounds like you aren't rotating your tires every 6k or so.:bash:

I've only put about 8k on it since I bought.
Tires are beat and I'm getting ready for new ones next week.

I'll definitely wire brush/anti-seize the surface when I do.

 

[DaveyBoy]

More seriously.. Galvanic corrosion can be a bastage. Last time I had this problem, I ensure the vehicle was properly supported w/jackstands and took a 10 pound sledgehammer to the back side of the tire, rotating it 1/4 turn between whacks. Took 3 whacks.

Thanks for all the advice...especially from my fellow rust belt owners :cheers:

 

[charlier180]

As another poster said - after wire brushing the center hub area, coat with anti-seize compound (I use it on plug threads too). Sounds like you aren't rotating your tires every 6k or so.:bash:

I rotate the tires on my 4Runner at least twice a year. I put on about 5K miles/year, change over to snow tires in late November or early December and back to all seasons in Mid March. I too sand the surfaces. Next change I will probably try using the anti-sieze compound.

I have to admit that I also slightly loosen my lug nets then move the 4Runner on the driveway to break the wheels free. I did that the first time kicking and/or hitting them with a mallet did not free them. For me the sticking problem occurs whether it is my alloy wheels (sumer tires) or my steel wheels (snow tires).