Trojan4x4's Build Log

Trojan4x4

New member
Hello everyone, I'm Trojan4x4 (but my friends call me Vlad). Got my runner in January of 2017 with 68,500 miles. Bone stock unmolested (unless u count the audio system). It's a work in progress that will never end. This is sort of a tracker for all the "progress" I made from the start of my ownership!
Thanks
Day I got her
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DRIVETRAIN:
70k Tune Up (NGK spark plugs, wires,PVC valve + grommet, fuel filter, dielectric grease on all sensors, mobil 1 red grease on all driveshaft zerks, syn oil change)
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71k Tune Up Part 2 (Redline brand - brake fluid flush, engine oil, gear oil, transmission fill/drain, power steering fluid flush)
72,5k B&M Transmission Cooler install (inline with radiator and a WIX magnetic filter off prelude)
Originally I ran a 180*F inline thermostat in my transmission lines, but wasn't working well enough with me so I've removed it and run inline with radiator. I found this to be most effective solution. DD tems are 140 and hillclimb/offroad doesnt get hotter than 200.
Transmission fluid fill/drain with new filter and gasket (almost no sud)
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BRAKES/SUSPENSION
75k Tundra 231mm upgrade (akebono pads + powerstop slotted/drilled rotors)
75k 1.5' Billet Aluminum Wheel Spacers - off brand
with Wheeler's Stainless Steel Brakelines
75k Energy Suspension Black Poly Steering Rack Bushings
72k Rear Axle Breather Extended
80k OEM Rear axle seals + bearings. Collar flip mod. New drums and brake shoes.
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80k 1.5" Thunder Off-road DS Body lift installed
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82k LC80 Shocks and Superflex Coils (bought used from forum member)
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82k Taco 5100 Struts with 99 springs on 3rd perch (bought used from forum member)
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82k Whiteline LCA bushings
82k Lower Ball Joints (Silicone boot + grease-able)
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EXTERIOR/INTERIOR

CB Radio with Firestick (Custom Mount)
Outboard LED marker lights
Front filler panel LED turn signals
Interior amber LED conversion (including window switches)
Hillux 167 Snorkel with silicone intake mod
Window Tint
Aftermarket radio
75k Cooper AT3 265/75r16 (had to hammer the pinch weld)
75k Steel 16" rims with 4.5 backspace
AND ALL THE STUFF I FORGOT ABOUT

2/26/18
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Got my windows tinted as well. 15% in the back (+ factory) and 50% in the front. Also installed my CB an antenna, just have to tune it. Might have to redesign my mount as I think it has a little to much horizontal play.
 

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I've bought some used Tacoma 5100 for my upcoming lift. They had some corrosion and the rubbing bushing is shot. I've cleaned them up and clear coated them. The rubbing bushing got pressed out and I think I've managed to source a uniball to take its place ;) I'll post an update if I manage to press it in
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Update :
Managed to find a source for uniballs which would fit with the billsteins. However now I'm having doubts about longevity. Considering running uniball on one side and new bushing on the other side.

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Request for my snorkel's silicone tubing. For those who are interested : 2.5' to 2.5' 45* elbow. 2.5' coupling. 2.5' to 3' 90* elbow. It's a b!tch to fit on the air box but its a better permanent solution than a coathanger or whatever other alternative.


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Progress on my lift. Got the rear end done. Superflex coils and lc80 yota shocks. Threw a coat of paint on the shocks for the visual appearance. If you don't have a spring compressor, you can do this trick.(excuse my messy garage)
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For my Billsteins struts I have decided to stick with the rubber bushings for easy of maintenance and longevity.
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Finished up my front lift today. Installed aftermarket lower ball joints and whiteline lca bushings as well (it was a b!itch). One issue I ran with my grease-able ball joints is that the plug was hitting the CV joint. I found a solution but running a 1/4 set screw with threadlock in the ball joint housing (it has another grease-able nipple on the side of the housing)
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In total the lift ran me $260 not including bushings and small misc stuff.
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Progress on my lift. Got the rear end done. Superflex coils and lc80 yota shocks. Threw a coat of paint on the shocks for the visual appearance. If you don't have a spring compressor, you can do this trick.(excuse my messy garage)
9suxjc.jpg
If you loosen the bolts on the links (both ends of all 5 links), you shouldn't have to force things so much. Re-tighten them at ride height to keep from pre-loading all the bushings in the rear.

Finished up my front lift today. Installed aftermarket lower ball joints and whiteline lca bushings as well (it was a b!itch). One issue I ran with my grease-able ball joints is that the plug was hitting the CV joint. I found a solution but running a 1/4 set screw with threadlock in the ball joint housing (it has another grease-able nipple on the side of the housing)
2afbl9i.jpg

2afykg1.jpg
You are gonna want to go OEM on those lower ball joints. There have been many instances of aftermarket lower ball joints failing in as little as 10k miles. They are in constant tension, unlike most ball joint applications.

-Charlie
 
If you loosen the bolts on the links (both ends of all 5 links), you shouldn't have to force things so much. Re-tighten them at ride height to keep from pre-loading all the bushings in the rear.

You are gonna want to go OEM on those lower ball joints. There have been many instances of aftermarket lower ball joints failing in as little as 10k miles. They are in constant tension, unlike most ball joint applications.

-Charlie
That's a neat suggestion, will do that if I have to change my springs again.

As far as the ball joints go...its a heated debate. I've used these in dozens of vehicles when I used to work in the shop, including notorious ford ball joints issues with great success. The ball joint stud is bigger then OEM and greaseable. The boot has springs on both ends and is high quality rubber mix. These ball joints share part numbers for sequoias and tundras, which have a greater susp load. I'll keep my eye on wear of these and will update if I get a premature wear or joint play.
 

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