Two days ago I bought my first '94 TR4. The prior owner took very good care of it. However, it has 240,000 miles on it. The main thing I am concerned about right now is its inability to start at times. Mainly in the morning when it's cold, and even during the day if its been parked for a couple hours. After two attempts I let it sit for 1-2 mintues, try again, and it starts. Any advise? Thank you for all the advise and ideas I have already gotten from this forum, I look forward to learing more.
Trouble starting.
- Thread starter TR4JRP
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
CAN-03runner
New member
It is a: Manual? Automatic? Engine? What sounds does it make?
Details
I'm sorry, I was trying to stay within the the guideline of 5-line post. I guess I omitted the more important information. It's an automatic, 3.0 V6. 3VZE, if I am not mistaken. No unusual sounds. Just a repeated noise that sounds the same as most vehicles before they fire up. I guess I would say... tick, tick, tick, and so on. Thanks for the quick reply.
I'm sorry, I was trying to stay within the the guideline of 5-line post. I guess I omitted the more important information. It's an automatic, 3.0 V6. 3VZE, if I am not mistaken. No unusual sounds. Just a repeated noise that sounds the same as most vehicles before they fire up. I guess I would say... tick, tick, tick, and so on. Thanks for the quick reply.
CAN-03runner
New member
Welcome to T4R. 4crawler has loads of good info on this subject.
Something easy that you can check is try to shift through the gear selector. P, D, N, R etc... and back again. There should be a switch that tells the car that you are in P and lets you start it. It could be it is not working right. This could get it to pop into action again when you cycle through it like that.
On my manual, I get the click click click 50% of the time when I try to use the clutch. There is a switch on the clutch pedal that isn't working right. But I also have a clutch cancel button on the dash. With it pressed, it always starts.
Something easy that you can check is try to shift through the gear selector. P, D, N, R etc... and back again. There should be a switch that tells the car that you are in P and lets you start it. It could be it is not working right. This could get it to pop into action again when you cycle through it like that.
On my manual, I get the click click click 50% of the time when I try to use the clutch. There is a switch on the clutch pedal that isn't working right. But I also have a clutch cancel button on the dash. With it pressed, it always starts.
I took it to my shop and got a free inspection on it. They said... "the hard start is the check valve inside the fuel pump is not working causing the fuel to leak back in to tank causing the hard, would need to be replaced fuel pump." They estimated replacment of the Electronic Fuel Pump (FP), FP Strainer, and FP Relay @ $729.72. Does that sound fair?
KidVermicious
New member
What? Ok, lets be clear - when you turn the key do you get a) nothing, b) a click or series of clicks but no engine sounds, or c) the engine turning over but not starting.
If C, what they're telling you is plausible, but no way would I pay them that much for a fuel pump (but maybe that's an easier r&r on my rig than on yours). You could check to see if they're right a couple ways - starter fluid in the intake and see if the truck catches, or borrow a fuel line pressure tester from Autozone or wherever.
If A or B, then they're out in the woods getting high on cow farts. Don't go back.
I'm sorry, I am extremely ignorant when it comes to mechanical things. The answer is C. The previous owner had bought the Chilton book for the T4R, I got it and another one that I believe is called Hanes, with the rig. I looked through it, I don't have the tools and certainly not the experience to do something like that.
I also have a valve cover gasket that is leaking oil (class 3 the shop says), which do you think is more important to have fixed now?
Thanks for your help.
KidVermicious
New member
I'd do the pump first if you have to choose, just remember to check your oil frequently.
And don't be afraid of getting your hands dirty, man! Everybody does something for the first time once, and you've got a board full of guys here who know how to replace that pump and can offer advice if you get stuck. A $100 box of tools from Sears and a willingness to get dirty can save you a ton of money in the long run, not to mention that you'll know that everything you've done has been done right.
And don't be afraid of getting your hands dirty, man! Everybody does something for the first time once, and you've got a board full of guys here who know how to replace that pump and can offer advice if you get stuck. A $100 box of tools from Sears and a willingness to get dirty can save you a ton of money in the long run, not to mention that you'll know that everything you've done has been done right.
Gerdo
New member
I'm in the process of running my gas tank low so I can replace my fuel pump. I bought my pump for under $150 (pump, gasket, shipping).
The install isn't hard, just a pain due to working with gas.
I would agree. If it cranks and doesn't start, there is a good chance that it is the fuel pump.
The install isn't hard, just a pain due to working with gas.
I would agree. If it cranks and doesn't start, there is a good chance that it is the fuel pump.
Well then it's settled, I will do it myself. My main concern was the time it would take to research, learn, and execute. But I think in the long run you're right, everybody has to start somewhere.
I have two more questions to ask of you all before I get started:
1. I am a "brand loyal" kind of guy; does anybody have a recommendation for genuine Toyota parts?
2. I know I need to replace the Electronic Fuel Pump (FP), FP Strainer, and FP Relay. Is there anything else that I should look at replacing while I have it all taken out/apart?
Thanks for all the advise, everybody.
Still having problems.
:wtf:
So I replaced the Fuel Pump, Strainer, Fuel Filter, and all the gaskets and clips associated with it. Really was not that hard. Took about 7 hours from start to finish. Wish I had more tools and a jack or lift.
It's still having a hard start though. I bought a Fuel Pump Relay but, I can't seem to find where it goes. It looks like it belongs in the box under the hood however, all the threads/post I'm reading indicate it's behind the glove-box. After removing the glove-box, I really could not tell where it's supposed to go. Maybe I have the wrong relay... I will take a picture and post it in an hour or so. If anyone could speak to that, I would really appreciate it.
On the hard start: If it's not the relay... what do ya'll think it might be? Spark plugs, injectors? I really don't know, and I don't want to pay a shop to look at it. What I've noticed about it is that when I turn the ignition to ACC or ON I don't hear the Fuel Pump, and I'm told I should be able to. I took the access panel off and put my ear right to the top of the tank when the ignition was ON. Still heard nothing. When driving it's very audible with the access panel open. So I'm thinking (with my limited knowledge) that for some reason the pump is not fully turning on until the truck has turned over and is running. I think that because when I try to start it, it just won't start right away. I try it for 3-5 seconds, wait 10 seconds, try it again, wait 10 seconds. If it doesn't start at that point I'll let the ignition sit in the ON position for a minute and then come back and it starts right up. Does this sounds like a relay problem, like the pump isn't getting turned on, or the gas isn’t getting to the engine? Thanks for any help. Like I said, pic to follow.
:wtf:
So I replaced the Fuel Pump, Strainer, Fuel Filter, and all the gaskets and clips associated with it. Really was not that hard. Took about 7 hours from start to finish. Wish I had more tools and a jack or lift.
It's still having a hard start though. I bought a Fuel Pump Relay but, I can't seem to find where it goes. It looks like it belongs in the box under the hood however, all the threads/post I'm reading indicate it's behind the glove-box. After removing the glove-box, I really could not tell where it's supposed to go. Maybe I have the wrong relay... I will take a picture and post it in an hour or so. If anyone could speak to that, I would really appreciate it.
On the hard start: If it's not the relay... what do ya'll think it might be? Spark plugs, injectors? I really don't know, and I don't want to pay a shop to look at it. What I've noticed about it is that when I turn the ignition to ACC or ON I don't hear the Fuel Pump, and I'm told I should be able to. I took the access panel off and put my ear right to the top of the tank when the ignition was ON. Still heard nothing. When driving it's very audible with the access panel open. So I'm thinking (with my limited knowledge) that for some reason the pump is not fully turning on until the truck has turned over and is running. I think that because when I try to start it, it just won't start right away. I try it for 3-5 seconds, wait 10 seconds, try it again, wait 10 seconds. If it doesn't start at that point I'll let the ignition sit in the ON position for a minute and then come back and it starts right up. Does this sounds like a relay problem, like the pump isn't getting turned on, or the gas isn’t getting to the engine? Thanks for any help. Like I said, pic to follow.
KidVermicious
New member
It almost sounds electrical at this point, if the pump isn't kicking in at all. Write that garage a nasty letter, then grab your multimeter and make sure you're getting voltage to the fuel pump.
Jeff4runner
New member
I may be off in left field here, but it may even be something mechanical/vacuum line. Wouldnt hurt to check out all the vacuum lines and fuel lines for leaks or something else. If you have the time, try cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), throttle body, and anything else in the intake system.
