Tundra Billy Lift Question

jeredcollins

New member
So after nearly two years of doing research and trying to determine what I want I've concluded that I want to this lift. I want to do exactly 2.3-.5 lift. I want to go as high as possible without having to install UCA's. I want to run as close to a 33" tire as well. Can anyone tell me what rear spring would work well to give me about an .5" rake in the back? I know a lot of people run OME 906's with the Tundra Billies but they are running on the first perch on the front setup which gives about 2" of lift.

First Question:

What perch do I need to run with Tundra shocks and Tundra Progressive Springs to get to around 2.3-.5" of lift in the front?

Second Question:

What spring should I run with the rear Tundra 5100's to get around 2.5-.8" of lift in the back? Would the OME 890s work well?

Last Question:

Should do the diff drop bracket and also get the panhard bracket? Money isn't really an issue but I don't want to waste my time if I don't need.

Thanks
 
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My toytec lift supposedly gave 2.5" of lift in the front and I couldn't get positive caster. You might have better luck doing 2" (front) / 2.5" (rear). I personally prefer a small bit of rake.

Not sure why you wouldn't do the panhard bar and diff drop. Lowering the cv axles should help reduce wear on the boots.
 
Last Question:
Should do the diff drop bracket and also get the panhard bracket? Money isn't really an issue but I don't want to waste my time if I don't need.
Thanks

Check out the 3rd Gen lift facts thread bunch of good info. 3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
The diff drop is a good thing to use with any lift.
Forget the adjustible pan hard bar or frame side drop bracket waste of money.
Spend you money on PCK that [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] sells, search PCK correction kit, or go to eimkeith.com.
 
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Im currently running this set up. Started with 906's but ride was rough due to not having any weight in the rear, switched over to 890's and never looked back. I am also running a 10mm trim spacer in the rear to get rid of the little rake I had.
 
Do the pck on the axle side and see if it levels the bar up before you do the frame side.

Don't assume that a diff drop kit is a given without doing the research.
 
Im currently running this set up. Started with 906's but ride was rough due to not having any weight in the rear, switched over to 890's and never looked back. I am also running a 10mm trim spacer in the rear to get rid of the little rake I had.

You used the 10mm trim spacer in the rear? I was told the 10mm trim spacer would go on the front since the TRD coils are 2" and the 890s are 3". With the 10mm spacer it would move the front to around 2.5" to give me a half in rake.
 
You used the 10mm trim spacer in the rear? I was told the 10mm trim spacer would go on the front since the TRD coils are 2" and the 890s are 3". With the 10mm spacer it would move the front to around 2.5" to give me a half in rake.

Somebody told you incorrect info. The front 5100 billys have 5 clip slots that you use to adjust height. And the springs are side specific.
 
I wouldn't go with the 5100s. I went broke 3 of them. I'd go 6112s or save up for something else. If you never intend to go off-road then nevermind.
 
Somebody told you incorrect info. The front 5100 billys have 5 clip slots that you use to adjust height. And the springs are side specific.

Moving up on perches messes with the dampening ability. Adding the trim spacer gives the extra height without messing with the dampening. I understand the springs are side specific and we ordered the correct part numbers for each. 890 springs add 3” and the 10mm spacer adds another .50” so you should be getting 3.5” of lift in the rear. Stock setting on TRD springs are 2”. I would have to reference what additional perch setting adds to the lift.
 
Moving up on perches messes with the dampening ability. Adding the trim spacer gives the extra height without messing with the dampening. I understand the springs are side specific and we ordered the correct part numbers for each. 890 springs add 3” and the 10mm spacer adds another .50” so you should be getting 3.5” of lift in the rear. Stock setting on TRD springs are 2”. I would have to reference what additional perch setting adds to the lift.

Guess its your rig. Just trying to help from experience.

Don't be surprised if you don't get 1/2" of lift out of the 10mm trim packer.
 
Guess its your rig. Just trying to help from experience.

Don't be surprised if you don't get 1/2" of lift out of the 10mm trim packer.

I'm not understanding how you are trying to help me.

My setup I bought will be roughly 2.4" in the front and 3" in the back. I'm open ears on why this isn't right.
 
So after nearly two years of doing research and trying to determine what I want I've concluded that I want to this lift. I want to do exactly 2.3-.5 lift. I want to go as high as possible without having to install UCA's. I want to run as close to a 33" tire as well. Can anyone tell me what rear spring would work well to give me about an .5" rake in the back? I know a lot of people run OME 906's with the Tundra Billies but they are running on the first perch on the front setup which gives about 2" of lift.

First Question:

What perch do I need to run with Tundra shocks and Tundra Progressive Springs to get to around 2.3-.5" of lift in the front?

Second Question:

What spring should I run with the rear Tundra 5100's to get around 2.5-.8" of lift in the back? Would the OME 890s work well?

Last Question:

Should do the diff drop bracket and also get the panhard bracket? Money isn't really an issue but I don't want to waste my time if I don't need.

Thanks

2 years of research and you landed on this combination with these questions? :cry:

Dude if money isn't an issue, why not go with a fully adjustable pair of coilovers? Why do you want to put digressive Tundra shocks on your 4Runner combined with a progressive coil spring?

I would strongly advise to consider a pair of Toytec BOSS, King, or Icon fully adjustable coilovers. That way you're in control of the ride height AND the spring rate. Yes to diff drop and panhard drop bracket. Yes OME rear coils will work.
 
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I'm not understanding how you are trying to help me.

My setup I bought will be roughly 2.4" in the front and 3" in the back. I'm open ears on why this isn't right.

Never mind. Not here to argue with you. I have had this exact setup but you know more that I do about it. I am out...
 
2 years of research and you landed on this combination with these questions? :cry:

Dude if money isn't an issue, why not go with a fully adjustable pair of coilovers? Why do you want to put digressive Tundra shocks on your 4Runner combined with a progressive coil spring?

I would strongly advise to consider a pair of Toytec BOSS, King, or Icon fully adjustable coilovers. That way you're in control of the ride height AND the spring rate. Yes to diff drop and panhard drop bracket. Yes OME rear coils will work.

What’s the infatuation with an adjustable coilover? If you know the height you want then why buy something adjustable? If speedy likes his setup and Toyota said it was good enough to put on the Tundra I think I’ll survive. Sorry your experience wasn’t good like the rest of the 99% of people that run that exact same front setup.
 
What’s the infatuation with an adjustable coilover? If you know the height you want then why buy something adjustable? If speedy likes his setup and Toyota said it was good enough to put on the Tundra I think I’ll survive. Sorry your experience wasn’t good like the rest of the 99% of people that run that exact same front setup.

Who said anything about being infatuated? I recommended it based on my personal use. I chose not to put Tundra shocks on my 4runner...therefore I wouldn't run into many "What if" or "What setting" or "I was told this" scenarios. The point I'm making is you said you've spent 2 years researching this, and want to put a shock that's NOT even for our vehicle on.

The user is in control of the ride height..that's what makes a fully adjustable coilover more desirable to me and a lot of others.

Good luck mate.
 
So after nearly two years of doing research and trying to determine what I want I've concluded that I want to this lift. I want to do exactly 2.3-.5 lift. I want to go as high as possible without having to install UCA's. I want to run as close to a 33" tire as well. Can anyone tell me what rear spring would work well to give me about an .5" rake in the back? I know a lot of people run OME 906's with the Tundra Billies but they are running on the first perch on the front setup which gives about 2" of lift.

First Question:

What perch do I need to run with Tundra shocks and Tundra Progressive Springs to get to around 2.3-.5" of lift in the front?

Second Question:

What spring should I run with the rear Tundra 5100's to get around 2.5-.8" of lift in the back? Would the OME 890s work well?

Last Question:

Should do the diff drop bracket and also get the panhard bracket? Money isn't really an issue but I don't want to waste my time if I don't need.

Thanks


Second perch from the bottom on the tundra billy's will yield around 2.5 inches in the front.
I am running them with the eibach/toytec springs.

as for the rear the LC 8 wrap coils (purple/blue dot? not sure on color would have to check) perfectly match the front IMO, maybe .25" rake or less.

I recommend both the diff drop and PCK..

correcting suspension geometry is a must if you want a rig with nice street manners and no binding of components ;)

honestly though if you have the money, run a dedicated coil-over in the front. I loved my SAW's 2.0's. Fox and King are also good choices. That way you can dial in the exact amount of lift and spring pre-load you want.
 
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Second perch from the bottom on the tundra billy's will yield around 2.5 inches in the front.
I am running them with the eibach/toytec springs.

as for the rear the LC 8 wrap coils (purple/blue dot? not sure on color would have to check) perfectly match the front IMO, maybe .25" rake or less.

I recommend both the diff drop and PCK..

correcting suspension geometry is a must if you want a rig with nice street manners and no binding of components ;)

honestly though if you have the money, run a dedicated coil-over in the front. I loved my SAW's 2.0's. Fox and King are also good choices. That way you can dial in the exact amount of lift and spring pre-load you want.
How would you describe the ride on the 2nd notch? Thanks for the info.
 
How would you describe the ride on the 2nd notch? Thanks for the info.

It's not too firm, not too soft. good compression and dampening/rebound. matches the ride on the rear coils nicely. On the highway it's a Cadillac.


Contrary to everyone who is worried about "what if".... The reason I personally chose the tundra's over the 4runner 5100's was due to the fact that I could run less pre-load on the spring and still achieve the lift I wanted. I could care less if it wasn't "made" for the 4runner. That's why I have tundra brakes on my rig as well ;)

the front strut set up only cost me around $300 gathering the parts myself...alot cheaper than buying the ones that are pre-assembled
Shocks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IX475NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Springs: 112-620-P - Toytec/Eibach front coil lift springs
Spring top hats I bought from NAPA ~$40 then had the struts assembled by them to make install a breeze.
 
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