Tundra Brake Fit Issue - resolved

[cas5259]

I ordered Tundra 13WL calipers, rotors and pads from RockAuto - Cardone 19-P2712 and 19-P2713. I was ready to bolt the calipers back on after cutting the dust shield and the bolts don’t go all the way back in. Secondly, the caliper doesn’t look centered over the rotor even if the bolts did tighten down.

The OEM mounting bracket is 19.25mm thick, and the new calipers are 16.75mm thick, leaving the bolts to stick out. The bolts stick out 18.8mm when all the way in on their own.

Edit: None of the caliper mounting holes were tapped all the way through. There was at least 1/4” of threat to cut.

Outside clearance is tight.

Inside looks fine.

What’s going on here?? I confirmed that I was sent the right P/N’s.

 

[Bad Luck]

Do the caliper bolts not thread in any more? Do you have the rotor flush with the hub mating surface? If not you might want to put 3-4 washers on 2 opposite studs and hand tighten a couple lug nuts until the rotor and hub are touching correctly.

 

[cas5259]

Tundra Brake Fit Issue

Right, they’re threaded in and bottomed out in the hub. I put 3 lug nuts on and tightened them down to make sure the rotor was seated but no luck and that doesn’t explain the caliper bolts.

 

[gamefreakgc]

The Tundra calipers don't fit the stock rotors. You have to replace the rotors with Tundra rotors as well.

 

[cas5259]

Yeah they’re tundra rotors.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Regarding the bolts, where are they bottoming out? Are they the OEM bolts? They shouldn't be bottoming out just because you have different calipers in there. Are you feeling a hard bottoming out (like something is fully seated) or more like jamming from buggered threads? Are both sides doing that?

 

[cas5259]

Tundra Brake Fit Issue

Regarding the bolts, where are they bottoming out? Are they the OEM bolts? They shouldn't be bottoming out just because you have different calipers in there. Are you feeling a hard bottoming out (like something is fully seated) or more like jamming from buggered threads? Are both sides doing that?

Same bolts. They’re hard bottoming out. No more thread to go. Both bolts do the same thing. The threads in the hub don’t go all the way through.

I picked up another pair of calipers from advance to compare. Haven’t done it yet, will report back.

 

[cas5259]

Tundra Brake Fit Issue

Here’s the bolt thread measurements compared to the original caliper. The other set I picked up is the exact same part. What the heck? I’m at a total loss here. Everything I’ve seen so far has shown that these calipers are bolt on after trimming the dust shield. I can’t be the only one in 20 years whose ran into this.

15.73mm thread remaining.

Tundra caliper 18.38mm thread. The also new, silver caliper above measures the same.

Here’s how far the bolts go into the hub.

There’s a stop so that you can’t put the bolts in too far

 

[HiLife]

I forgot because it was long ago, I think I had to use the Tundra's caliper bolts too.
I had the same problem with the bolt bottoming out when I did my 231's from a Sequoia.

 

[cas5259]

I forgot because it was long ago, I think I had to use the Tundra's caliper bolts too.
I had the same problem with the bolt bottoming out when I did my 231's from a Sequoia.

Interesting. Didn’t see @%1; or anyone else do that.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

The tapped hole in the knuckle is a through hole. The bolt should not be bottoming out in it - my guess is you have rust buildup on the last few threads. Run a tap through it to clean it up.

 

[cas5259]

The tapped hole in the knuckle is a through hole. The bolt should not be bottoming out in it - my guess is you have rust buildup on the last few threads. Run a tap through it to clean it up.

Holy shit, that was it. I’ve seen a few suspension bolts where there was metal blocking the exit of a through hole so the bolt couldn’t thread any further and I thought for sure that was the case. Ran a 12x1.25 tap through, it took some effort, but it went through. Bolted up the caliper and all is well.

Being able to actually tighten the bolts centered the caliper on the rotor, so now I’m good to go!

Thank you so much for the help. Expect an order for some hood struts in the next week or so.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Holy shit, that was it. I’ve seen a few suspension bolts where there was metal blocking the exit of a through hole so the bolt couldn’t thread any further and I thought for sure that was the case. Ran a 12x1.25 tap through, it took some effort, but it went through. Bolted up the caliper and all is well.

Being able to actually tighten the bolts centered the caliper on the rotor, so now I’m good to go!

Thank you so much for the help. Expect an order for some hood struts in the next week or so.

:thumb:

 

[calimobber]

Sweet glad you got it figured out. Let me know how they feel? If the brake peddle gets softer or not. Seems some people have the issue and others dont.

softer longer push( feels like air in lines) but when it firms up its stronger.

 

[gamefreakgc]

There’s a stop so that you can’t put the bolts in too far

Holy rust Batman! That's a hole that I see where it's not supposed to be! I don't think your dust shield is going to last much longer.

 

[cas5259]

Holy rust Batman! That's a hole that I see where it's not supposed to be! I don't think your dust shield is going to last much longer.

Hah there is some rust in random places, but it’s mostly clean. 95% of that brown stuff is actually KY clay from the Kentucky Adventure Trail. Stuffs impossible to even pressure wash off.

 

[cas5259]

Sweet glad you got it figured out. Let me know how they feel? If the brake peddle gets softer or not. Seems some people have the issue and others dont.

softer longer push( feels like air in lines) but when it firms up its stronger.

Pedal feels fine. I’ve got speed bleeders all around, so that makes it an easy one person job. What’s weird though is that in the first few miles everything felt great, and then after that, light pulsing at low speed came back.

It was like that before, though, and I assumed my friend who doesn’t know about engine braking got the rotors/pads real hot on the mountains. Figured if I was gonna do the brakes, then it’s a good time for an upgrade. It’s really smooth under heavy braking, which is strange. Maybe it’s a booster issue or something, though I didn’t think the earlier ones (mines a ‘98) had a power booster?

 

[photoleif]

light pulsing at low speed came back.

no offense, but should ask if you bedded them. i followed [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION]'s procedure and they worked far better for me after that and one last bleed.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Pedal feels fine. I’ve got speed bleeders all around, so that makes it an easy one person job. What’s weird though is that in the first few miles everything felt great, and then after that, light pulsing at low speed came back.

It was like that before, though, and I assumed my friend who doesn’t know about engine braking got the rotors/pads real hot on the mountains. Figured if I was gonna do the brakes, then it’s a good time for an upgrade. It’s really smooth under heavy braking, which is strange. Maybe it’s a booster issue or something, though I didn’t think the earlier ones (mines a ‘98) had a power booster?

I had the same thing. Bedding the brakes heavily got rid of it.

 

[cas5259]

no offense, but should ask if you bedded them. i followed [MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION]'s procedure and they worked far better for me after that and one last bleed.

Yeah I bedded and bled properly. Don’t think it’s the fronts, though. Maybe it was the rears this whole time. I installed new drums/shoes/cylinder/hardware along with the wheel bearings and axle seals last year. Everything was fine for about 5k miles. I can increase the pulsing with the ebrake so it’s not the front.

Left drum is 350F after minimal braking. Right drum is 145F, so somethings going on. Bell cranks are free. I took it to the shop who turned the drums last year and they backed off the adjusters and said it was fine, no charge. It was fine for about 5 minutes, then it came back. It seems to only pulse when the brakes are warm. The first few minutes of driving are normal. Now I’m worried the heat has roasted the wheel bearing on that side - that job was a pita.