Tundra brake mod... ideas and questions

If this gives better braking, it's something I'll have to look into. I have 16" rims. So basically we're putting Tundra disc brakes on the front and leaving the rear alone?

I find the braking is a little sluggish compared to the CR-V--whose windshield I almost go through every time I apply the brakes in it after driving the 4Runner.

The 4Runner gives up a few hundred lbs. stopping weight compared to Tundra..so swapping the bigger braking system on a lighter vehicle says alot.
 
I just tried looking up "more aggressive pads" but was unable to come to ANY definitive conclusion as to WHICH more-aggressive pad to use.

Do you have a specific recommended pad that I can start with?



I looked up the ATE (apparently pronounced Ah-tay') "superblue"; this is a pseudo-DOT4 fluid apparently (it's only not true DOT4 from what I read because the DOT spec apparently actually cares about the color not being blue) and already ordered two liters and a pressure bleeder.

When you do a pressure bleed, do you have a seat-of-the-pants feel for how many liters are needed?


Hawk has a HPS pad which is more aggressive than OEM pads. Take a look at Tirerack.com and see what they have. Also their Hawk HP Superduty is a little more aggressive.

Brakes for 1997 Toyota 4Runner 2wd

One thing to note, the harder the compound and better the braking sometimes translates into more brake dust on wheels and some squeal. Nothing to worry about, just wash the wheels off more often and just ignore the squeal if you have it.

When I use Hawk HP+, (also, Carbotech, or Cobalt) track pads on the street (usually a little after or before track events with the RX-8) I've had folks come to me and say that I should check my brakes because it sounds like I need to change my pads. I just say thanks and keep going.

If you're going from normal amber colored brake fluid to ATE Superblue, just bleed your brakes until you start seeing the full blue come through. Then you know you've gotten the old stuff out. Start with the rears, then the passenger front, then the driver's front. You want to go furthest away from the reservoir to the closest.

That's one thing about the ATE, it comes in amber and blue. Its the same stuff. You can alternate from one to the other every time you flush to make sure you have complete new stuff each time. Not that I think you'll need to reflush, but in a race/track car, you flush brakes much more often then a normal street car. I'm sure your brakes haven't been bled in a long time, you'll be able see see a darker brown fluid more than the amber.
 
Which Hawk Pads were they? Which series?

They were the Ceramics.

Hawk Performance Brake Pads: Performance Ceramic Brake Compound

They were definitively lower dust. Their claim of increased stopping power was not true at all for me. They were scary to say the least. I removed them within a week and installed AZ Duralast semi metal pads. It was a loss of about $80 (because I just threw the Hawks in the trash) but I was more than relieved to be rid of the Hawks.
 
Reviews from the HP superduty sound like they stop really well. Squeal and dusting is there which is what I also see in the HP+ car pads I use.

Hawk HP SuperDuty Brake Pads

Good Stopping power
Low Noise
Low Dust

pick 2 of the 3. You're really not going to get all 3 in most cases.
 
Reviews from the HP superduty sound like they stop really well. Squeal and dusting is there which is what I also see in the HP+ car pads I use.

Hawk HP SuperDuty Brake Pads

Good Stopping power
Low Noise
Low Dust

pick 2 of the 3. You're really not going to get all 3 in most cases.

Huh? I read those reviews as a mixed bag. Some have good things to report and some have bad.

The pedal effort is higher than stock, however lockup is much less likely as stopping is more controlled with this combination.

Inital bite could be better but much improved over stock pads.

Once the new pads were installed I wasn''t overly impressed with the performance of them.

Squeals and scaping sound and any speed! Was it worth it? Probably not since I come at 3am and wake everyone in the neighborhood up. Never buy again -- Review submitted: 2008-07-16



Here's a really bad one:
I don''t expect alot out of the minivan but with the brembo drum/rotor combo with hawk pads stopping must be a planned event and panic stops don''t exist. -- Review submitted: 2008-09-19



I guess people read what they want to read.
 
Huh? I read those reviews as a mixed bag. Some have good things to report and some have bad.

The pedal effort is higher than stock, however lockup is much less likely as stopping is more controlled with this combination.

Inital bite could be better but much improved over stock pads.

Once the new pads were installed I wasn''t overly impressed with the performance of them.

Squeals and scaping sound and any speed! Was it worth it? Probably not since I come at 3am and wake everyone in the neighborhood up. Never buy again -- Review submitted: 2008-07-16



Here's a really bad one:
I don''t expect alot out of the minivan but with the brembo drum/rotor combo with hawk pads stopping must be a planned event and panic stops don''t exist. -- Review submitted: 2008-09-19



I guess people read what they want to read.


Well, if I average the score they are pretty good. In whatever you're going to review, there are always folks that are going to poopoo it. Most of the reviews were 8+. Several of the negative reviews were due to sound and dust which I discount because I know that's going to happen with a harder compound.

In Olympic competition don't they usually throw out the highest and lowest score and average the rest?
 
Well, my own real experience with the Hawk pads speaks more than volumes to me. I just wish I had not fallen for the forum hype. They were all like "Oh yeah, Hawk pads... Hawk pads. I wonder how many of them actually had them installed?

The other one was the "Powerslot" rotors, which also turned out to be junk. Those things wore down to nill within a year. They must make them out of pot metal.

What really burns me up is all the forum posts talking these up. It's like Hawk has paid forum posters working some sort of marketing campaign. They certainly aren't worth the premium price tag they charge. That could also be the reason for the hype. People spend so much for them they have to talk them up to substantiate the cost in their own mind.
 
My only experience with Hawk is with an RX-8 and RX-7, so I admit I'm assuming a lot to say they are good pads for a 4Runner.

I have experience with HP+ track pads and then race only compounds (HT10, HT14, Blue, Black) so I can't say much aside from being familiar with the brand.



Well, my own real experience with the Hawk pads speaks more than volumes to me. I just wish I had not fallen for the forum hype. They were all like "Oh yeah, Hawk pads... Hawk pads. I wonder how many of them actually had them installed?

The other one was the "Powerslot" rotors, which also turned out to be junk. Those things wore down to nill within a year. They must make them out of pot metal.

What really burns me up is all the forum posts talking these up. It's like Hawk has paid forum posters working some sort of marketing campaign. They certainly aren't worth the premium price tag they charge. That could also be the reason for the hype. People spend so much for them they have to talk them up to substantiate the cost in their own mind.
 
didnt want to make a new thread about this so i'll ask here since its appropriate.

I can get a hold of some tundra calipers right now for a good price if i want. I'm not really planning it but if the price goes any lower i'll definitely do it. I emailed the guy and these are some of the specs he gave me

"The pads are 4.7 inches which will equate to approx 119.3 mm. They are off my 2002 tundra extended cab with a V8. Stamped on the calipers are S13WE. I replaced my calipers with the 13WL which is a 5.3 inch. From what I have read on the forums, my old calipers are an upgrade to the 4runner. Let me know if this helps."


"Got the measurement from a web site that just gave the measurement of the brake pads in mm. The caliper from end to end is 8.75 inches. Not sure where the 199mm is being measured from. They are the S13WE calipers though.
Sorry for any confusion"

so is this a go or a no go? i'm currently running 265/75/16's so not a whole lot of weight. i was hoping these were the right calilpers. dont really need the 231's but if these are the 199's i'm looking for...will they be a big improvement? i know most ppl do the 231's

thanks
 
anyone know?

You can install the 199's vs the 231's and still see a benefit, not only the larger pad but the Tundra rotor is thicker than stock T4R and can handle more heat. The 199's are used by folks who don't want to mill out the back side of their older T4R wheels.

I'm not quite sure where the measurement is taken for 199 (7.83") vs 231 (9.09"), could be the length of the caliper, I suppose. Regardless, the 231 is a thicker caliper which is why it won't fit under the older 6-spoke wheels (like your original ones).
 
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I really want to do the 199mm upgrade - I don't want to bother with any cutting or grinding so I'm staying away from the 231mm. I'm trying to do this piece by piece since the parts are not cheep and they are not that easy to come by(especially around here - not a big truck area).

I plan on going OEM as much as I can and trying to avoid going to a junkyard - that's mostly what you get out of junkyards, junk... All the stuff of any value has been picked clean long ago. Has anyone considered doing a newer Tacoma brake swap since the rotors are 219mm I believe? Would these even fit our 3rd Gen Runners?
 
I thought that pic looked familiar!

43_V2010040619494320.jpg~original

My rotors look the same as those rims. Mine is a 2000. I keep seeing "newer" 5-spoke rims mentioned. Am I good to go with 2000 rims making the swap to the 231 mm rotors?

I plan to do the upgrade. Looking for good prices now on the calipers, rotors and pads. Open to suggestions and recommendations.

:fro:
 
I hope the OP doesn't mind our quesitons in this thread... I was going to open another thread but since we seemt to be getting answers here figured I'd post some questions.

I know that I want the 231mm so I need the 13WL instead of the S13WE (199mm) but I also see something that says 13WG (?). Obviously I'm going to stick wtih the 13WL for my swap but was curious if anyone knows.

The local Napa shop has them in semi-loaded form for $81-104 ea. with a $50 core charge. Rotors $49.79 x2 and pads for $47.99 (ceramic). Total $335.38 for the upgrade. I'm definitely doing this soon as the snow stops.
 
I hope the OP doesn't mind our quesitons in this thread... I was going to open another thread but since we seemt to be getting answers here figured I'd post some questions.

I know that I want the 231mm so I need the 13WL instead of the S13WE (199mm) but I also see something that says 13WG (?). Obviously I'm going to stick wtih the 13WL for my swap but was curious if anyone knows.

The local Napa shop has them in semi-loaded form for $81-104 ea. with a $50 core charge. Rotors $49.79 x2 and pads for $47.99 (ceramic). Total $335.38 for the upgrade. I'm definitely doing this soon as the snow stops.

Google search makes me think it's for a 2004-2006 Tundra or 4th gen T4R. There's also a T4R.org thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/66299-13wh-vs-13wg-calipers-question.html
 
re: brake upgrades

I upgraded my front brakes after the old ones warped due to extra weight and lift.

New rotors: Brembo cross-drilled & slotted performance
PADS: not sure the name, they are NOT the brand Hawk

I had to take it somewhere :( to get done. Total cost $500.

I have had this setup for 2 years now and it is awesome.
The truck stops so quick that it feels (and smells) like the tires are shredding if I put my foot down.

I have a 97 Limited 4x4. It came with stock 16" wheel.

Currently running 275x70x16 BFG ATs on aftermarket 16" wheels.

:gun6:
 

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