txbonds
Senior Member
Thanks.
You talking about the camburgs? I put the supplied grease on them but that's all. I'm hopeful it is enough. How will I know if it needs more other than squeaking?
txbonds 15 4Runner Trail Edition thread
- Thread starter txbonds
- Start date
Thanks.
You talking about the camburgs? I put the supplied grease on them but that's all. I'm hopeful it is enough. How will I know if it needs more other than squeaking?
sandcrawler
Senior Member
ah, you're probably good. must've just been the way i read one of your earlier posts and i thought you were greasing via the zerks after the fact. don't mind me. mine were so lubed up beforehand it was like a slip and slide getting all that business lined up and installed.
did you get new ball joints with the Camburgs or press your OEM ones in? your OEMs were pretty much new, i assume.
looks great. the "do it once, do it right" mindset is evident. i skimmed your '97 thread too—no stone unturned. so awesome.
txbonds
Senior Member
Yes, I used the supplied grease on the bushings. Thought it needed more via the zerks but guess that is just for maintenance down the road. Regarding the ball joints, mine came with the moog joints pressed in by Sonoran Steel.
st8rocks
New member
Same question. I'm about to lift with KDSS. Did you use a jack under the KDSS pistons to detach and attached the swaybar?
txbonds
Senior Member
Will do. Once I get the sliders on I'll get it out of the garage and see how it sits. May need to raise the front a little more to get the stance a little more level. Not sure until sliders are on and rear tire hung.
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txbonds
Senior Member
The front was hard to get off and on. I got my wife to help me hold it to get the passenger LCA bracket on, and then I was able to pivot the bar up and get the drivers LCA bracket on. From there I rotated the bar up and put the piston bracket back on and en used jack to raise it up to get the other center bracket back on.
It was a ***** to get it lined up, and I managed to strip one of the bolts on the center static bracket. Spent about 2 hours yesterday with a thread restoration tool kit fixing the threads to get it back together.
The rear one was a snap and I only un-did the brackets on one side.
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sschaefer3
New member
The real value of the panhard bar is the unlimited movement bushings. The FJC people that buy the Metal Tech long travel rear kits add the bar and the trucks seriously open up. Take a stock panhard bar, put the end in a vise, rotate it up and down, you will see it moves a little up and a little down. Now take the bar we make and you can move it up and down as high or low as you want.
It also lines everything back up, but that is secondary. It is also much more heavy duty than the stock bar even with the adjustment aspect.
sschaefer3
New member
Yes the sliders replace the rocker trim. You could isntall a set of budbuilt style bolt on sliders under the Sleekster sliders, they are up that much higher.
Mooney
New member
Just finished installing the OPOR's, they were below the existing trim. Wasn't sure from his photos whether he elected or it was mandated for his sliders.
Thanks for the update.
txbonds
Senior Member
One more shot of the fitment just before I started drilling the lower holes into the pinch weld.
My pinch weld holes after deburring with my angle die grinder and a fine sand paper disc and then coating with some gloss black rustoleum. The paint will be less visible with the sliders. Now just have to wait for it to dry before next step.
Drilling through that pinch weld steel was fun. I ended up having the best luck by abandoning the regular drill bits and using a uni-bit (stepped bit) preceded by an auto punch to get a small starting divot. I just took a red sharpie pen and marked the stopping point on the step bit, and then used my 1/4" drill bit for final size measurement by running it through the hole to check size.
Depending on how well the black rustoleum enamel coated the metal, I may need to add a follow up coat. If it looks good however, the next step is to get the slider mounted and start working on the upper holes and rivets. This may be all for the night though to allow the paint time to fully cure.
My pinch weld holes after deburring with my angle die grinder and a fine sand paper disc and then coating with some gloss black rustoleum. The paint will be less visible with the sliders. Now just have to wait for it to dry before next step.
Drilling through that pinch weld steel was fun. I ended up having the best luck by abandoning the regular drill bits and using a uni-bit (stepped bit) preceded by an auto punch to get a small starting divot. I just took a red sharpie pen and marked the stopping point on the step bit, and then used my 1/4" drill bit for final size measurement by running it through the hole to check size.
Depending on how well the black rustoleum enamel coated the metal, I may need to add a follow up coat. If it looks good however, the next step is to get the slider mounted and start working on the upper holes and rivets. This may be all for the night though to allow the paint time to fully cure.
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oljedi11950
New member
Sweet ! I had to do a double take on the sliders & then went to their website I really like these !!! My only problem is don't have your nice tool setup crap . But I will be on these thanks Tx ! One of the really clean 4r we have here !
cjacob316
New member
seeing your underside makes me wonder if I should re-install the screws that were holding on the running boards since you seem to have screws in those mounting holes.
Do you feel confident in the body mounted sliders? How much drilling do you have to do? That would make me so nervous.
Do you feel confident in the body mounted sliders? How much drilling do you have to do? That would make me so nervous.
txbonds
Senior Member
Thanks man. If you decide to get them you can order them through Sonoran Steel. That's where I got mine.
Not sure how the running boards mount. The plastic rocker trim was held on with only plastic rivets and two screws.
Regarding the sliders though, I had my reservations at first and am still a little nervous about the drilling part since it rains a lot here, but the design is solid. They sandwich the lower rocker area and mount in multiple places. Regarding holes drilled, I would guess it's about 20 holes per side. All hidden by the plastic rocker if you ever converted it back to stock though.
From everything I've read on rocker mount sliders they are a solid and proven concept. They raise the side clearance level a good bit. And I've come to trust Steve at Sonorans opinion on this stuff and he recommends, uses them and sells them. The only downside I see really is the step out is so high it doesn't really help as a step to get in.
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txbonds
Senior Member
Don't like the delay as it means taking 2 days per slider but I went back and added additional layer of paint this morning to all of my drilled holes in the pinch weld. The paint from last night had dried beautifully but even with my deburring and sanding the hole there was a very slight raised ring on the drill side of the hole. The ring looked like it needed a little more paint so I hit the inside and each side of the holes with a q-tip with the same black paint.
Will let it dry rest of today with the air set on 72 degrees and the dehumidifier set to 50%. Should be ready to move forward with this slider by this evening and hopefully get it finished and the other side drilled and painted tonight.
Will let it dry rest of today with the air set on 72 degrees and the dehumidifier set to 50%. Should be ready to move forward with this slider by this evening and hopefully get it finished and the other side drilled and painted tonight.
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jrandom
New member
I had a floor jack and cribbing under the piston. I did passenger side up first as you have the most movement, leaving it "finger" tight. I then grabbed a ratchet strap and went over the lower a-arm and back to the frame and simply ratcheted the driver side of the swaybar up until I could get and alignment punch in to match it up. Torque everything and go. Piece of pie
[MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION] [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] thanks for the info on the panhard bar. That's rich, I don't think I have seen anyone mention this in all the suspension build threads I have dredged through, not to say that they aren't there, just hadn't seen them. On that note I would like to get a 1.5 SAW springs in the rear, is that enough to warrant one of these? I imagine you could add one at stock too since it is adjustable? Thanks
Those sliders are a trip, interesting concept, and wonderful tight fit. I guess my only concern is road grime (ugh salt) getting between the slider and the pinch weld, I would be curious to know how much if any gap there is for clean out.
txbonds
Senior Member
I had a floor jack and cribbing under the piston. I did passenger side up first as you have the most movement, leaving it "finger" tight. I then grabbed a ratchet strap and went over the lower a-arm and back to the frame and simply ratcheted the driver side of the swaybar up until I could get and alignment punch in to match it up. Torque everything and go. Piece of pie
[MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION] [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] thanks for the info on the panhard bar. That's rich, I don't think I have seen anyone mention this in all the suspension build threads I have dredged through, not to say that they aren't there, just hadn't seen them. On that note I would like to get a 1.5 SAW springs in the rear, is that enough to warrant one of these? I imagine you could add one at stock too since it is adjustable? Thanks
Those sliders are a trip, interesting concept, and wonderful tight fit. I guess my only concern is road grime (ugh salt) getting between the slider and the pinch weld, I would be curious to know how much if any gap there is for clean out.
If I lived in the north or anywhere that the truck would see continuous road salt I would probably reconsider the rocker sliders. They may be perfectly fine if you spend lots of time treating the rocker before hand, and they do have lots of drain windows and openings in them, but like you mentioned I would be concerned about salt getting up into the panels more easily. I guess like everything else you would need to take them off every so often and clean and retreat the rocker area. Maybe make it a pre or post winter maintenance activity.
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