txbonds 15 4Runner Trail Edition thread

[sschaefer3]

I had a floor jack and cribbing under the piston. I did passenger side up first as you have the most movement, leaving it "finger" tight. I then grabbed a ratchet strap and went over the lower a-arm and back to the frame and simply ratcheted the driver side of the swaybar up until I could get and alignment punch in to match it up. Torque everything and go. Piece of pie


[MENTION=95329]txbonds[/MENTION] [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] thanks for the info on the panhard bar. That's rich, I don't think I have seen anyone mention this in all the suspension build threads I have dredged through, not to say that they aren't there, just hadn't seen them. On that note I would like to get a 1.5 SAW springs in the rear, is that enough to warrant one of these? I imagine you could add one at stock too since it is adjustable? Thanks


Those sliders are a trip, interesting concept, and wonderful tight fit. I guess my only concern is road grime (ugh salt) getting between the slider and the pinch weld, I would be curious to know how much if any gap there is for clean out.

1.5" of lift is not going to warrant a longer bar. But the real point of the bar is more axle movement, so if you are installing longer rear shocks or want the most movement out of the rear axle that is what the part is for. Total Chaos and Icon also make adjustable bars with unlimted movement ends. Those use Heim joints which will wear quickly in rust belt weather, ours uses Poly Bushings. Which are inexpensive and replaceable.

As for the sliders and corrosion. I have been in the business since 2001. I am amazed at what the weather in New England and the Rust Belt and Canada does to metal. Even one of my 3rd Gen 4Runner rear bumpers in Colorado that was powder coated and sand blasted very clean right after building it, before powder coating rusted out. Icon, King, Radflo and all the other So Cal coil overs are going to rot out in these environments as well. A frame mounted slider is going to collect as much crud between the plates/frame and corrode too. Everything metal is going to corrode. I don't really think there is any great solution to rust proofing. Factory Toyota wheels I have seen in Massachusetts are crazy corroded. But I would say the Sleekester Sliders are a Down South and Out West oriented item, just like the coil overs I mentioned above.

 

[jrandom]

Thanks and thanks

 

[txbonds]

To get the bolts in the pinch weld all in, I had to run the step bit back through 3 of them as the alignment was just every so slightly off (1mm or 2mm), but enough that I couldn't easily get the bolt through. Dabbed them with paint on a q-tip again and am ready to move onto the rivets next.

One thing I will note is that the instructions indicate putting a bolt through the rear upper hole first but in my case the sliders sit too far out from the body panel at that spot to get the provided bolt to fit so I'll need to get a slightly longer bolt (1/4" more)

Setting up my cheapie pneumatic rivet gun

 

[sschaefer3]

I got the longer bolt as well, but Randy told me to use a clamp to bring it in and start/thread the original shorter bolt.

That air riveter actually works really well. It's a copy of an American made one that is $500+

 

[txbonds]

I got the longer bolt as well, but Randy told me to use a clamp to bring it in and start/thread the original shorter bolt.

That air riveter actually works really well. It's a copy of an American made one that is $500+

Thanks Steve.

Just ran into a snag. The riveter doesn't have a collet large enough to fit the rivets. I'm not sure what to do at this point but I think I'm going to drill the largest one out a drill bit size or two on the drill press.

The rivet fits into the back of the largest collet but not into the face.

 

[sschaefer3]

That is a 1/4" gun and you are using 3/16" rivets. There should be a hole big enough. The long smaller end goes in the gun and the larger shorter 3/16" end goes in the hole in the truck.

Have you riveted before?

I used the same HF gun?

 

[txbonds]

That is a 1/4" gun and you are using 3/16" rivets. There should be a hole big enough. The long smaller end goes in the gun and the larger shorter 3/16" end goes in the hole in the truck.

Have you riveted before?

I used the same HF gun?

Duh, I had it backwards and yes I have riveted before. Geez…………… Just wasted a bunch of time drilling because I wasn't thinking straight but at least I didn't drill out the one I needed. Oh well. :dammit:

 

[sschaefer3]

Thats what I though. :rockon:

 

[oljedi11950]

Lil thread jack hey Steve if I come to Tempe you guys do install ?

 

[txbonds]

First slider secured and hanging on it's own. Just need to add one more bolt in the rear upper hole and it's finished.

 

[sschaefer3]

We do installs with an appointment.

:cheer2:

 

[oljedi11950]

Thank you & will be looking at my calender !

 

[txbonds]

No new pictures but I spent my truck time today taking the slider back off and reinstalling it. I had some "installer" errors with the initial run at it because I didn't follow the directions, go figure. Anyway, got it figured out and reinstalled this evening.

For anyone that buys these to install, the directions proved critical on my install by following this order of attack:
1). Lift into place with floor jack and adjust until proper tight fit achieved.
2). Using tip of sharpie in angle needle nose pliers, mark lower holes through windows in bottom
3.) remove and drill holes with step bit. Follow with proper regular drill bit to get finished hole size
4). Put slider back in place on floor Jack until proper tight fit achieved. Insert bolt into upper rear most hole and tighten about half way. (I had to drill a hole for this)
5). Move to front most upper hole and drill and rivet to rocker panel. I ended up using longer rivets than those supplied.
6.) repeat across first 3 or 4 front rivet locations
7). Return to rear of slider and tighten bolt rest of way down. I used a 1" bolt rather than the 3/4" long bolts provided.
8). Return to where you left off doing rivets and finish working your way to back of truck
9.) using a jack lift lower slider to push bolt holes you drilled up into alignment. I had to do this for every hole or two by moving the jack as I went along putting the bolts in. I also had to use a 1" long bolt in the front most one in place of the 3/4" provided bolts to pull the slider into the pinch weld.

Anyway, following this process I appear to have them locked in and rock solid now. My earlier attempt missed most of the rivets and didn't lock the back I to place properly.

Hopefully the drivers side goes much smoother tomorrow now that I have the routine down. :laugh:

 

[2K_Tortoise]

TX, thanks for taking the time and effort in documenting and sharing the install process for the suspension and sliders. Your 3rd Gen was an amazing build and this definitely does not disappoint. I too used to own a 3rd Gen and now currently own a 2013 TE. I am looking to pick up these sliders from Steve as well. Although I may have to make my out out to Tempe for the install.

 

[txbonds]

TX, thanks for taking the time and effort in documenting and sharing the install process for the suspension and sliders. Your 3rd Gen was an amazing build and this definitely does not disappoint. I too used to own a 3rd Gen and now currently own a 2013 TE. I am looking to pick up these sliders from Steve as well. Although I may have to make my out out to Tempe for the install.

Thanks for the compliments and no problem on the pictures and info. I've been trying to give back since I've learned so much reading threads from those that came before me. On the sliders, if I was in driving distance of Steve's shop I would have had them do the install on everything.

 

[VTOL_Yoda]

Very Nice work as usual.

Down the road, I would like to hear your observations on MPG / Acceleration / etc.

 

[txbonds]

Very Nice work as usual.

Down the road, I would like to hear your observations on MPG / Acceleration / etc.

That's affirmative ghost rider.

 

[txbonds]

Picked this up at Costco. Realize it's just a rebranded item using the Snap-on name but I'm impressed enough to go back for a few more at $29 each.

It's 2,000 lumens and blinding but will make a great garage work light that doesn't give out 3rd degree burns like the halogens.

Now that I've used this a few times while working on my runner my current opinion is that it's too bright. I have a hard time positioning it so that the light spill isn't just blinding me. I feel like a dimmer light would work better for up close work and this sucker would do better as a broad area flood light. Shame it doesn't have a few intensity power settings. Anyway, just wanted to give some feedback.

 

[High_Country]

Now that I've used this a few times while working on my runner my current opinion is that it's too bright. I have a hard time positioning it so that the light spill isn't just blinding me.

Too bad it's too bright for up close work. I could see that. However, given the low power consumption (assumed) of the LED's, and the factory inverters we have in the rear, I bet it would make a great area camp light. I could see using it for night time setups, evening game cleanings after hunting, set it up on top of the 4R, hang from the rear hatch, under an awning, from a tree, whatever.

But, I'm a fan of light.

That seems to be a good value at $29. Too bad there's no costco's around me!

 

[txbonds]

Drivers side finished


Turned truck around and getting staged for drivers side

Drilling holes for rivets

Holding the slider in place to mark lower holes with a sharpie pen tip

Silver sharpie marks to drill out on pinch weld

And finally finished with lift and slider install. Just need to hit a few spots with some touch up paint and call it good.

Next up is an alignment but I may raise the front end up a bit first to get it closer to level. Haven't decided if I should do that now or wait until bumper, winch and skids are mounted as I figure I'll need another alignment then anyway.

Also need to get inside and route the wires and switches for my seat heaters but can get that done another time later this week as I want to rest up from this round of install before I tackle anything else.



Off to watch some football so Happy New Year Everyone!!!