txbonds
Senior Member
I think it's the same width as the dual can holder as its turned sideways instead of the direction of the dual holder.
txbonds 15 4Runner Trail Edition thread
- Thread starter txbonds
- Start date
I think it's the same width as the dual can holder as its turned sideways instead of the direction of the dual holder.
txbonds
Senior Member
Redid my table supports. Got rid of the terminated cables and switched to small chain.
Used a piece of heat shrink to cover it to prevent rattles
Not the prettiest work but snipped some drain holes in the bottom
Was able to get a good snug fit and the table very well supported this way
Used a piece of heat shrink to cover it to prevent rattles
Not the prettiest work but snipped some drain holes in the bottom
Was able to get a good snug fit and the table very well supported this way
txbonds
Senior Member
Picked up the new matching spare today and had it mounted on a 5th FN Countersteer X wheel.
Still looks a little small but not nearly as bad as the other spare did
Also picked up a $1.61 plastic rivet from Toyota and replaced the loose rivet on the panel that was rattling under the drivers rear wheel well and it seems to have done the trick. The old one looked like it had a bad tab on it so it wasn't grabbing properly. Probably covered under warranty but for $1.61 not nearly worth screwing around with the service process and wait.
.
Still looks a little small but not nearly as bad as the other spare did
Also picked up a $1.61 plastic rivet from Toyota and replaced the loose rivet on the panel that was rattling under the drivers rear wheel well and it seems to have done the trick. The old one looked like it had a bad tab on it so it wasn't grabbing properly. Probably covered under warranty but for $1.61 not nearly worth screwing around with the service process and wait.
.
Last edited:
txbonds
Senior Member
Nothing too major but some pretty heavy mud, clay and standing water passes on some dirt trails. They seem to perform about as good as the GY MTR's that were on the 97 I recently sold. Difference is these ride a lot better on the road. That said, I've only got about 2k miles on them so far.
GSPRunner
Senior Member
Sounds good enough for me. Thanks!
txbonds
Senior Member
They were not cut to length, were hard to crimp, and only came with 4 terminals. I was having trouble getting the length right and needed more terminals. Anyway, the idea to try some small chain I had laying around came from my Dad.
So, no reason really other than I would have to have gotten more terminals to keep adjusting the cables to get them right. I guess the only other reason is that this way I don't have to worry about the crimp not holding onto the cable over time. The flip side is that if the chain had not worked out just right length wise, it wouldn't have been an alternative.
Rigid dually flood lights for rear should be here tomorrow so I can get started on some wiring over the next week.
txbonds
Senior Member
Didn't expect this stuff to show till end of next week. Right on and way to go CBI!!!
Dual can carrier
Ditch light brackets
Extra edge trim so I can finish below rear cargo door
Now I just need my lights to show tomorrow and the next week or so will involve the following wiring:
> seat heater switches and wiring finished
> rear flood lights in bumper, wiring and AOB switch in dash
> rear tag light wiring
> ditch brackets and d2 wide lights, wiring and AOB switch in dash
> prewire for d2 driving lights on bumper, and AOB switch in dash
> prewire for warn winch disconnect solenoid kit and AOB switch in dash
If I get a cable in time, I'll also try to get my CB install done now that the rear bumper is there for the antenna.
:frog: :frog: :frog:
.
Dual can carrier
Ditch light brackets
Extra edge trim so I can finish below rear cargo door
Now I just need my lights to show tomorrow and the next week or so will involve the following wiring:
> seat heater switches and wiring finished
> rear flood lights in bumper, wiring and AOB switch in dash
> rear tag light wiring
> ditch brackets and d2 wide lights, wiring and AOB switch in dash
> prewire for d2 driving lights on bumper, and AOB switch in dash
> prewire for warn winch disconnect solenoid kit and AOB switch in dash
If I get a cable in time, I'll also try to get my CB install done now that the rear bumper is there for the antenna.
:frog: :frog: :frog:
.
txbonds
Senior Member
When I had my katzkins put in the local shop had a set of Rostra's that were meant for a toyota corolla (or something like that). They are fine but just a little smaller than the universal ones that most people put in. These are made to be plug-n-play for that specific car but are easily adapted to mine.
Long story short, I had to go with what they had since they had the seats apart. If I'd planned properly I'd have ordered a set from amazon for a few bucks and had them put in.
txbonds
Senior Member
uh oh. Didn't know that. What did you have to trim?
I'm trying to avoid putting lights on my roof rack if I can help it. We will see.
.
harkco
New member
There is a plastic trim piece right beneath where they mount. Here is thread from a while back....
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/179802-cbi-ditch-light-brackets-not-fitting.html
I didn't ask, I just took the trim piece off. Thought that's what I was supposed to do!
it just pops right off there. 
txbonds
Senior Member
Going to give the CBI rear bumper a little work out this weekend. Not what you probably think though.
For comparison, here it was before the bumper
Not sure of the tongue weight, but with the added bumper weight it certainly is giving those radflo springs/shocks a little extra squat. Will probably end up looking at some airbags to fill up when I hook the trailer on but will wait to see how it all sits with the skids and front bumper weight added in. Trailer with Mule Pro FXT is right around 3,000 lbs but I can't even tell it's back there most of the time unless it's windy. The mule roof catches the wind pretty bad.
Wasn't sure if the trailer would fit under the spare but the trailer jack just clears the spare if I leave the handle folded down. Also the swing arm will just clear the trailer rail if I lift up on the swing while I'm opening it. Not sure it would clear it if the can carrier had two full cans and a hi-lift was hanging on it.
Will try to snap some better pictures this weekend of the truck and rear bumper for those that asked a page or two back. Cheers.
For comparison, here it was before the bumper
Not sure of the tongue weight, but with the added bumper weight it certainly is giving those radflo springs/shocks a little extra squat. Will probably end up looking at some airbags to fill up when I hook the trailer on but will wait to see how it all sits with the skids and front bumper weight added in. Trailer with Mule Pro FXT is right around 3,000 lbs but I can't even tell it's back there most of the time unless it's windy. The mule roof catches the wind pretty bad.
Wasn't sure if the trailer would fit under the spare but the trailer jack just clears the spare if I leave the handle folded down. Also the swing arm will just clear the trailer rail if I lift up on the swing while I'm opening it. Not sure it would clear it if the can carrier had two full cans and a hi-lift was hanging on it.
Will try to snap some better pictures this weekend of the truck and rear bumper for those that asked a page or two back. Cheers.
Last edited:
Mooney
New member
Few pictures this afternoon showing truck and rear bumper
Like it, like it a lot! :clap2:
Similar threads
