Tyler James Inc's OEM+ '97 Limited

[MENTION=99383]amalik[/MENTION] I had a hot water spigot put in on the side of my house when I had it built, so that's where my hot water comes from.
I know some people use the spigot on the bottom of their hot water heater.
I'm not sure if all pressure washers can handle that hot of water, but running through your garden hose takes the temp down some, and I haven't had any issues on the 10yr old pressure washer I have.

Thanks for the tip man. That is a genius plumbing move you did.

I have a 97 caked in oil that I need to clean this summer. I have one of the big 3 (4? 5? lol) leaks, not sure which one yet.

Based on your feedback, I think I'm going to run a hose from the water heater in the basement up the stairs and into the garage into the pressure washer.

If the Ryobi can't handle the heat, we'll see, lol. It was $100 something dollars, if it dies, it dies.

<3 this forum :llama:
 
So I really like that you've swapped so much 99+ interior parts over. I've got broken dash vents and figured I'd just swap over the 99+ radio bezel. Couple questions:

I know I need the ac vent behind the bezel also. Are the clocks identical?

Did you repin the rear window, defroster, hazard, and ect switches? Any chance you've got a diagram floating around on how you did that? Wiring is my kryptonite.

I'm also one of the people you refered to who cut the whole sunroof console up to keep the 97 switches, instead of repinning. I've still got the 99 switch. How would I repin that to work as well?

I'm really impressed with the cleanliness of your rig. I've always liked the anthracite. Good luck figuring out the rear spring situation. My OME/Tokico LC setup is very stiff and harsh.
 
Thanks for the tip man. That is a genius plumbing move you did.

I have a 97 caked in oil that I need to clean this summer. I have one of the big 3 (4? 5? lol) leaks, not sure which one yet.

Based on your feedback, I think I'm going to run a hose from the water heater in the basement up the stairs and into the garage into the pressure washer.

If the Ryobi can't handle the heat, we'll see, lol. It was $100 something dollars, if it dies, it dies.

<3 this forum :llama:

Hahaha your post gave me a good chuckle [emoji23]
I hope and pray all goes well with your hose running through the house- keep me posted on how that goes :)
No problem man, anytime at all [emoji1360]
I don't get any drips, but I have some oil seepage too. Trying to just pretend it/they doesn't exist.

So I really like that you've swapped so much 99+ interior parts over. I've got broken dash vents and figured I'd just swap over the 99+ radio bezel. Couple questions:

I know I need the ac vent behind the bezel also. Are the clocks identical?

Did you repin the rear window, defroster, hazard, and ect switches? Any chance you've got a diagram floating around on how you did that? Wiring is my kryptonite.

I'm also one of the people you refered to who cut the whole sunroof console up to keep the 97 switches, instead of repinning. I've still got the 99 switch. How would I repin that to work as well?

I'm really impressed with the cleanliness of your rig. I've always liked the anthracite. Good luck figuring out the rear spring situation. My OME/Tokico LC setup is very stiff and harsh.

Thanks man!
I don't remember exactly how I did all the wiring, but I know I had to utilize the '97 switch, because it has the actual relay/timer built into the switch, where the '99+ has a separate module, and the button on the bezel just activates it. So, now the button('99+) just activates the old button/relay/timer hiding behind the dash.
I believe I spliced the rear window wiring. Should have re-pinned it. Maybe I did? Haha it's been a while.
The clock is the same.
Hazard switch- I don't remember at all.
Let me get some pics for you- I'll try to pull it apart this weekend [emoji1360]
I really appreciate the compliments! You have a really nice rig too, and the new paint looks killer [emoji41] Sucks to hear your ride is harsh. Even with 45psi in my load range E KO2's, my front end rides so good- I love it. Rear was awesome with the 5100's, but completely sucks right now with the 4600's.
I'd love to help you out with your sunroof controls! PM me with the parts/wiring you have, and let's get that thing swapped out [emoji6]
 
Based on your feedback, I think I'm going to run a hose from the water heater in the basement up the stairs and into the garage into the pressure washer.

If you do that make sure you flush the water heater first. There's usually a ton of sediment laying on the bottom of them. Just run the hose outside but before you connect it to your pressure washer open the drain. Let it flow for till you see clear water coming out. Then shut it and give the heater 30 minutes to get back up to temp. If you don't do that your sending all that sediment into your pressure washer. It's actually good to flush your water heater 2 times a year to prolong it's life and keep it at it's rated capacity.
 
If you do that make sure you flush the water heater first. There's usually a ton of sediment laying on the bottom of them. Just run the hose outside but before you connect it to your pressure washer open the drain. Let it flow for till you see clear water coming out. Then shut it and give the heater 30 minutes to get back up to temp. If you don't do that your sending all that sediment into your pressure washer. It's actually good to flush your water heater 2 times a year to prolong it's life and keep it at it's rated capacity.

thx for the feedback. I have one of those rods at the top that come with newer models. Aren't those supposed to attract sediments/etc and prevent the water heater from rusting?
 
thx for the feedback. I have one of those rods at the top that come with newer models. Aren't those supposed to attract sediments/etc and prevent the water heater from rusting?

Yes they prevent the heater from rusting. No they do not attract sediment. The opposite actually. They create sediment. There called anode rods and they act as a buffer to keep the heater from rusting. They do this by rusting themselves through a process called electrolysis. When they rust out they get smaller and the rust from them collects in the bottom of the tank. Trust me you want to flush the heater. In case you haven't guessed by now I'm a plumber. I've seen tanks so filled with sediment that the drain valve actually gets clogged. Just flush it. lol
 
Thanks man!
I don't remember exactly how I did all the wiring, but I know I had to utilize the '97 switch, because it has the actual relay/timer built into the switch, where the '99+ has a separate module, and the button on the bezel just activates it. So, now the button('99+) just activates the old button/relay/timer hiding behind the dash.
I believe I spliced the rear window wiring. Should have re-pinned it. Maybe I did? Haha it's been a while.
The clock is the same.
Hazard switch- I don't remember at all.
Let me get some pics for you- I'll try to pull it apart this weekend [emoji1360]
I really appreciate the compliments! You have a really nice rig too, and the new paint looks killer [emoji41] Sucks to hear your ride is harsh. Even with 45psi in my load range E KO2's, my front end rides so good- I love it. Rear was awesome with the 5100's, but completely sucks right now with the 4600's.
I'd love to help you out with your sunroof controls! PM me with the parts/wiring you have, and let's get that thing swapped out [emoji6]

Thanks for the compliments! I appreciate your advice too. Don't worry about pulling apart your dash just for pictures. I'm sure with the appropriate amount of time and swearing I can figure it out.

45psi and riding good sounds different. I've got E load Duratracs and I run them around 30psi. 23k miles and they're wearing good. I did a chalk test and that's where they were flat. If 45 works for you and you like it stick with it, I just don't want you to see more wear in the center.
 
While I had the dash open, I decided to dive head-first into swapping my '97 HVAC slider controls to the newer '98-00 knob style. At 5:15 pm. Not a super tough swap, but required swapping the cables out to the newer style, as well as re-pinning the fan motor switch.
I guess I forgot to take an "after" pic, but here's the '96/97 slider style controls-
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This is yet another mod I have [MENTION=124101]Chim[/MENTION] and his '99 to thank for! [emoji1374]
Running some trails tomorrow. Should be a good time [emoji1360]
 
I really enjoyed reading through your thread. This is pretty much what I am aiming for my 4R. Simple but still have some subtle custom upgrades.
 
Great looking ride!
Thanks a lot! ☺
I really enjoyed reading through your thread. This is pretty much what I am aiming for my 4R. Simple but still have some subtle custom upgrades.
Awesome! [emoji1360] I've had a ton of vehicles in the past, and tend to try to go extreme on everything. I'm trying to keep this mild/practical, and I'm really loving everything about it so far! Let me know if I can help out with anything.
Sounds like the HVAC swap went easier than anticipated?
Yes! Wasn't bad at all. Thanks again man.
you Sir are a scholar and a gentleman. Thank you!
Hey, no problem man. Glad I could help.
Anyone want a quick re-pinning lesson? Cool, 'cause I'd love to see more re-pinning, and less splicing. Not always possible, of course, but it's nice and clean when it can be done.
First, every connector has a terminal "lock tab" of sorts. The one below pulls straight out the front of the connector, and is the white part. This tab has to be pulled out before you can release the terminals. This is the connector for the fan motor switch-
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The "lock tabs" usually only have to be pulled out just slightly, but it's sometimes easier to pull them all the way out.
There are terminal release tools that might be easer to use, but you can make your own tool fairly simply. If you have a VERY small flathead, that would work pretty well. It would have to be tiny. I straightened a section of a cheap key ring, and cut the end at a 45* with dikes. It ended up being about a 2" straight tool with a loop on the other end. You then need to release the final terminal lock tab. Here, I have the tool inserted into the end of the connector, and up against the lock tab. You push in against the tab, and pry it away from the terminal-
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This is to release the terminal on the bottom row of the connector. You have to hold pressure- on the tab- away from the terminal, while pulling on the wire from the back.
It's a little tricky, but not too tough.
Before re-pinning-
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HUGE S/O to [MENTION=124101]Chim[/MENTION] -once again- for giving me his '99 dash harness. If I didn't have that, I wouldn't have a clue as to why my new('99) fan switch didn't work when I plugged it in(to my '97 dash harness)- and I did plug it right in and try to turn the fan on!
'99 dash harness plug-
efd89b07d53b2b9cd263ee3f1b7e8abe.jpg
Same colors, different locations! Easy fix [emoji6]
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That's the '97 connector, repinned to the '99 color positions.
That's all [emoji854]
 
Anyone want a quick re-pinning lesson? Cool, 'cause I'd love to see more re-pinning, and less splicing. Not always possible, of course, but it's nice and clean when it can be done.

Crap. Your gonna be pissed when you see the splice job I'll end up doing on my blinker harness. lol

Although that re-pinning idea would look a lot more pro. Thanks man.
 
Crap. Your gonna be pissed when you see the splice job I'll end up doing on my blinker harness. lol



Although that re-pinning idea would look a lot more pro. Thanks man.

Haha
Hey, I have my fair share of splices too! Unless you have terminals and crimp tools- which I do not-, most wiring requires splicing. But sometimes re-pinning is an option. When it is, I do love that option! [emoji41]
When I did the 3.4 swap in my 92 4Runner, I did a LOT of re-pinning, and it was actually super rewarding and fun. Once you get the hang of releasing the terminals. It's cake.
 
Didn't get many pictures from this past weekend's trail run, but it sure was fun! We had a huge turn out; 16 rigs showed up [emoji43] It was a "beginner" run, that was supposed to be kept to the moderate trails. The leaders were a little ambitious(and may have been drinking? Completely legal, just to be clear.) and jumped on some intermediate trails [emoji23] This led to a little bit of a mess, as there was a few rigs very close to stock, as well as a brand new- completely stock- Grand Cherokee Trail Hawk in the group. Over half the group ended up turning around on the trail, and leaving. I'm sure they were a little upset, as the event was posted as a "get your feet wet/stock rigs welcome" event. Oh well.
I was very happy with the KO2's. Even in deep mud, they did great.
Here is a pretty deep little mud hole I got through without much problem, and then it swallowed a 5th gen and an LX.
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Group leader had a pretty nice GX-
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Quite the group-
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Couple shots someone got of me-
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This dude had a bad ass chopped up 2016 [emoji41]
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I loved her 5th gen Trail with the AL Pelfreybuilt front-
afe818263f393ad7a8e5d4c298e8f9e5.jpg

My buddy's Trail I did the body mount chop on-
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Working on getting my sliders designed, because that would give me a lot more confidence on the trail!
 

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