Uh-oh...tranny drain plug stripped...

D

dmauldin

New member
Was in the midst of a drain and fill. Went to reinstall the drain plug using the same Toyota gasket I used on the oil pan drain bolt. Was trying to torque to 20 ft lbs and never got there. It started spinning easier. Now, it turns without even registering on my beam-style torque wrench.

Can I fill it and drive it for a few days, watching for leaks until I can remedy, or is that asking for disaster?

Should I purchase a new drain pan - need to reseal anyway since I think the pan gasket it leaky. Anyone have the part number for the drain pan? Does it come with the dipstick tube attached already?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
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I'd tap it one size larger and put a bigger bolt in it. Simple as that. Driving around with it stripped is just asking for trouble.
 
cashmoney said:
I'd tap it one size larger and put a bigger bolt in it. Simple as that. Driving around with it stripped is just asking for trouble.
Click to expand...

The bolt won't back out.

Can you specify which size tap and bolt I will need to move to?

Is the tap something I would get at the auto parts or hardware store?

Going back under the Runner to see if I can get this bolt to come out. Hoping a little prying will help it back out.
 
This happened to me. The mechanic offered a "cheaper fix" and it worked out great. It has been 5 years and no problems.

Remove the whole pan, preferably after the fluid was drained lol (or you will have a giant mess)

Clean the pan

Tack-weld on the inside of the pan. Unscrew or thread in the bolt (or new bolt).

It's been 5+ years and it's held up.

If you remove the pan at home you should be able to find a local welder to do this for you for pretty cheap. Like $20. No warranty but you have nothing to loose. Otherwise you'll need to buy a new pan.

Replacing the whole pan is a good amount of cash, even worse at a dealer.
 
I cannot get the bolt to back out...

Looks like I need to remove the pan to get it out.

My options are:

1. remove the bolt, retap the opening to a new size and get a bigger bolt.
2. have a nut welded on the inside of the pan to accept a new bolt.

Sound right?

Crap!
 
dmauldin said:
I cannot get the bolt to back out...

Looks like I need to remove the pan to get it out.

My options are:

1. remove the bolt, retap the opening to a new size and get a bigger bolt.
2. have a nut welded on the inside of the pan to accept a new bolt.

Sound right?

Crap!
Click to expand...

Pretty much.

Calibrate your torque wrench...
 
KidVermicious said:
Pretty much.

Calibrate your torque wrench...
Click to expand...

I got it... I definitely did not over tighten this bolt. I was using my left arm, upside down on my back - and I'm not strong... It never got to a point where I thought, "geez, this is really tight." It just never got tight.

Moving on...dropped the pan, drilled out the bolt because I couldn't get it out, even putting a lot of downward force from the inside while turning.

Now, I have to get this pan tapped...wish me luck.

Nice way to turn a half-hour job into a multi-hour affair...at least I'm a little more familiar with the truck now. (looking on bright side...)
 
OK, here's where I am now:

Got the pan tapped out to M10x1.5

I can not locate a drain bolt at any of the local places - the smallest drain bolt anyone has is M12.

I can get an M10x1.5 bolt at the hardware store, but it is much longer than the plug that came out. I guess I could try to cut the bolt shorter?

I'm at a loss and would like to try and get this done today, if possible.

If not, is it safe to shift into Neutral (without the engine on) and roll it a foot so I can get my garage door shut?

This is starting to suck...I have to be at work at 6am tomorrow...
 
dmauldin said:
OK, here's where I am now:

Got the pan tapped out to M10x1.5

I can not locate a drain bolt at any of the local places - the smallest drain bolt anyone has is M12.

I can get an M10x1.5 bolt at the hardware store, but it is much longer than the plug that came out. I guess I could try to cut the bolt shorter?

I'm at a loss and would like to try and get this done today, if possible.

If not, is it safe to shift into Neutral (without the engine on) and roll it a foot so I can get my garage door shut?

This is starting to suck...I have to be at work at 6am tomorrow...
Click to expand...

I would tape it out to what ever they have in stock.. Plus parts stores should carry a self taping drain plug for trans pan/oil pans
 
Yup, safe to roll it in N as far as you need to. And if you take a normal bolt and cut it to the same length as your old bolt you'll have no trouble. It won't have the magnetic tip or be as low profile as a drain bolt so I wouldn't keep it that way, but it'll get you rolling anyway.
 
Won't help for tomorrow but-

You can get one of these...
McMaster-Carr
and have it welded into your pan. The pic is from my '93 Chevy c1500. They don't come with drain plugs from the factory so I fixed that issue.
Or get a used pan from a junkyard.
 

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This just happened to me last week. Got new pan from dealer ($130) next day. Nobody makes aftermarket pans for our 3rd gens. FIPG, new pan, new bolt and washer. Good to go. Easy to do yourself. There are write up on the forums.
 
I got a bolt cut to length, a Felpro gasket and a new in-lb torque wrench. Got it all installed after much hassle...
It's a must to remove the bolt from the upper part of the dipstick tube so the pan can seat freely...
Got it all back together, filled it and took it for a drive. All seems to be good - no leaks...

I think I'll monitor it for leaks and plan to replace the pan in a few weeks when I do my next drain and fill. This pan had a few dents in it and is, I think, missing some magnets.

Thanks for the responses today. Feels good to get it all done!
 
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