**Caleb's Limited build/repair thread - 98' Limited 4runner**

[calebb]

Welp, it's been a long time coming from finally deciding on a 4runner for my first *self-bought* vehicle to finally doing some work that's worth posting about! Basically, my 4runner has been a semi dream come true. Semi bc of the boat load of work I have to do to it:Cry:. But here it is!

IMG_0085
Only pic for right now, nothing glamorous but I love it lol.

Info
-This forum is the main reason I have a 4runner right now. You guys steered me into the purchase! 428k miles on it, bought it with 396k. Complete 1 owner vehicle since it was bought in 1998. Original owner took it to the dealer religiously and had all the paper work to prove it. Only major repair, new steering rack. All recalls were fixed as well. However, he really only messed with it when it really needed something. Everything is og, but you can FEEL it. It rock's like a boat on the highway and sounds like it too. Rust is an issue in some areas, suspension is a goner, I legit have no bushings in some areas, windshield is cracked. But, not once has it left me stranded. Only car in the family that doesn't break down

Where I'm at now...

Need some help because I'm swapping in a manual soon. I'm trying to read up on it as much as I can but I have to grab everything in one trip soon. Pulling the manual from a 2000 4runner. Anything I'm missing in this list?

Transmission
Transmission mount and spare crossmember
Transfer Case
driveshafts
Clutch
Flywheel
Clutch Cover
Throwout bearing
Clutch pedal
Clutch Master Cylinder
Hydrualic line
Slave Cylinder
Tranny and transfer shift levers
Shift boot
Brake pedal assembly
Engine wiring harness
Dash wiring harness
ECU
gauge cluster
Center Console and Shift bezel

I'm thinking of just swapping the entire wiring harness from the donor truck, unless that's too much effort for what's needed? How much of it do I exactly need? From the headlights all the way to the tail lights? Or just everything under the dash and whatever is connected to that? Sorry, havent seen anything for a year 2000 into a 1998 in my searches.

Also, any changes in the charcoal canister/evap system that is going to give me a headache within these years? Thanks in advance!

Hopefully, if all goes well this thread will help others shooting within these years. Thanks everyone!

 

[misterkunal]

Looks like a solid Car!

 

[Team_Jake]

Love that you're tackling something with those miles. I did a 5-speed swap not that long ago so I'll chime in what you need / don't need, see my commects in red below.

Pulling the manual from a 2000 4runner. Anything I'm missing in this list?

Transmission Remember to grab the bolts for the bellhousing, they're different lengths between the AT and MT
Transmission mount and spare crossmember The crossmember is not needed, only the mount
Transfer Case You don't need to change transfer cases if you don't want to, any V6 3rd gen transfer case bolts to any V6 3rd gen transmission
driveshafts
Clutch Don't bother, get a new one
Flywheel Important to grab this and get it machined, aftermarket ones aren't as good and OEM ones online are expensive
Clutch Cover I assume you mean pressure plate
Throwout bearing You could use the old one but I suggest getting a new one
Clutch pedal Remember to get the entire assembly including the bracket, spring, etc.
Clutch Master Cylinder Remember to grab the lid and float if available
Hydrualic line
Slave Cylinder
Tranny and transfer shift levers
Shift boot
Brake pedal assembly You don't need the entire assembly, just the pedal and rubber cover on the pedal
Engine wiring harness See my comments below
Dash wiring harness See my comments below
ECU See my comments below
gauge cluster Not needed
Center Console and Shift bezel

A couple more things you'll need:
The clutch start cancel button
The clutch release switch
The clutch depress switch
The backup lights switch
The leather cover for the shifters
Shift fork and boot
New pilot bearing

I'm thinking of just swapping the entire wiring harness from the donor truck, unless that's too much effort for what's needed? How much of it do I exactly need? From the headlights all the way to the tail lights? Or just everything under the dash and whatever is connected to that? Sorry, havent seen anything for a year 2000 into a 1998 in my searches. See my comments below

Also, any changes in the charcoal canister/evap system that is going to give me a headache within these years? Thanks in advance! You shouldn't have a problem

Hopefully, if all goes well this thread will help others shooting within these years. Thanks everyone!

It is important that you get the correct ECU because these 3rd gen 4runners have sub-generations (96-98, 99-00, 01-02) and the way the engines run between these sub generations are different, so that 2000 MT ECU will likely not work with your 98 engine, it's too different. Luckily the 1998 4Runner MT/AT ECUs can be swapped and are plug-and-play, meaning the connectors between the two are the same and don't require re-wiring. Look for part number 89661-3D360. Getting this ECU means you don't have to swap wiring harnesses and your engine will be happy. Just make alterations to your existing wiring harness, much easier.

Have fun with the swap!

 

[calebb]

Looks like a solid Car!

Thanks!

Love that you're tackling something with those miles. I did a 5-speed swap not that long ago so I'll chime in what you need / don't need, see my commects in red below.


Just make alterations to your existing wiring harness, much easier.

Have fun with the swap!

Wow, thank you so much! I actually took a pic of your revised list to use when I saw the trans this morning:biggrin1: Everything is solid on the truck when I test drove it, but why should I have the new to me flywheel machined? Do you also have any recommendations for maintenance while I'm in there, figured I'd snag the rear main seal for preventative work and repair any surface on the frame rails. Will get the trans by the end of the week, updates to come!

 

[Team_Jake]

Everything is solid on the truck when I test drove it, but why should I have the new to me flywheel machined? Do you also have any recommendations for maintenance while I'm in there, figured I'd snag the rear main seal for preventative work and repair any surface on the frame rails. Will get the trans by the end of the week, updates to come!

It’s a good idea to have a flywheel re-surfaced while it’s out of the vehicle, kinda like if you’re doing a head gasket job it’s a good idea to re-surface the heads...you’ll have better/smoother engagement with your clutch, it’s cheap, and the machine shop could discover cracks or flaws in the flywheel that are dangerous and could lead to bigger problems if left unchecked. You don’t HAVE to get it machined, but it’s a good idea to.

Yes, I suggest the rear main seal...with your miles it’s probably gonna need it. There isn’t really anything else I’d tackle while under there, maybe just re-grease driveshafts and make sure everything is torqued properly.

 

[calebb]

Update

So I picked up most of what I needed to get going...
IMG_1107
And yes, there are 2 transfer cases because I also bought a transfer case from a limited 99 4runner with multi-mode so I can have that desired manual trans with AWD capability. Anybody with experience please share!! Anddd now I'm going to be selling 2 transfer cases haha

Also, the amazing gentleman who sold me the trans also threw in exhaust, interior/exterior trims pieces, and basically anything else I needed/wanted.

IMG_1124
Flywheel definitely needs to be resurfaced

Goals for this week
- Figure out wiring, this is going to be the biggest issue with installing this multimode transfer case.
-Get everything cleaned up and new parts ordered. Im hoping to completly install everything and wrapped up in 2 days. Just again that wiring lol
-Find me some oem matching paint bc I have some rust that's been hanging out under my carpet

 

[calebb]

Wellll, it’s been a long time since I updated this. Progress has been made, but sorta pushing off the manual swap right now due to some more important issues...

Like these original RLCA’s!

“New” from the junkyard with some por15

Little trimming for a 99 e-brake/console

Not perfect but it works

Also tried this diy powder coating kit from harbor freight, not bad. Produced some orange peel but I think that was user error.

Oem fuel lines (and filter) for the win

And a bunch of other little things, flushed the brake fluid, gutted and cleaned my whole interior, found a fair bit of rust and have acquired a BUNCH of parts from the local junkyard.Have gotten so much stuff there on the cheap including...

......

A frame!

Mine is pretty bad and don’t look forward to possible patches and all the clean up work to keep the rust at bay. I have about an 1/8th of inch of rust flakes sitting on the bottom of my frame right now haha. So, a frame swap just seems so much more reasonable![emoji23]

It’s from a 99 2wd truck, only difference I found is the cross member. I like to weld so that isn’t a huge deal. Frame is MINT, minor surface rust. Hoping to get it all together within the next 2 weeks, I am in college so that may get pushed back. We’ll see. I also have to rebuild my entire rear axle bc bearings and seals are gone! Its showing its age, but I love wrenching and knowing exactly what I have.

If peps want documentation on the frame swap, I’ll try to share as much details as I can. But there are some really good sources already. And any input please, please post it up!


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[brillo_76]

Great thread. Keep up the good work..

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[calebb]

Well, my truck has definitely gotten a lot of tlc lately. Especially with the rear axle, which has been a bigger project than I ever anticipated

I posted another thread about this, but my axle-housing flange got bent upon removal of the 3rd member. Not a good idea to use a bottle jack to crack open the rear diff bc it also tweaked my 3rd member. Did not feel smooth.

I also tried bending it back, but yeah that whole story is in the other thread lol.

So onto a replacement, found a local one at a junkyard of the same year, gear ratio and about 250k less miles. Funny on this housing the 3rd member just popped off, 2 taps from the hammer and it was off. So got it sand blasted bc rust belt

Sorry no before):

I noticed a cyclical grinding noise about last year, rear bearings were shot. But seals didn’t blow till a year later, everything was rough tho. Off with the old. No special tools, backing plates got destroyed but purposefully bc I had new ones from the junkyard

Rust was bad

Also, noticed a little rust on the bottom of both axle shafts. Evaporust fixed this, removed the rust and preserved the machined surfaced.

Before

After (left)

No more rust but did leave a little mark. But no big deal. Evaporust also cleaned up my bearing retainers really nice

Before

After

Onto paint, I didn’t have enough epoxy primer for everything, so epoxy primered backing plates, bearing cups, axle shafts and 3rd member and por15ed axle housing. As soon as the por15 got tacky, 2 light coats of remaining epoxy primer, then topcoat everything with Eastwood chassis black.

Por15ed (painted outside)

Upon removal of the old seals, I noticed the previous owner used aftermarket seals with some sort of fipg. Why? Because the scores the mating surface for the seal pretty bad. Oh well, not getting a new axle so here’s some fipg in there

Fast forward aheaddddddd...

And done.

Finishing up install tomorrow, and we’ll finally be back on the road!

Also can anybody guess what I’m doing?

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[calebb]

Update:

Axle is under my vehicle and working great, no more grinding noise and it is leak free for the past 800 miles. Swapped out my old exhaust for a slightly less old exhaust lol. And new wiper blades and a car wash.

I also finished swapping over all my doors and fenders, I was reallyyyy not a fan of my limited trim and was considering just buying a different 4runner. But here we are and I thought I’d give this a shot...

Before:

After:

I’m reallyyy liking the look of it, especially seeing the body lines of the doors. I still got my old doors and fenders just incase. We’ll see, it’s only been a week. (And yes I do realize the holes in the rocker panels, I have new ones that are ready to be put on over the summer)

Next set of business is to put my rear bumper back on, front and rear brakes, and new wheels and tires. I’m thinking steelies currently because they are cheap and possibly nitto grapplers. Maybe.

Let me know what you guys think of this new style!


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[calebb]

Update:

Winter has definitely made it hard to work on the 4runner, but have made a good amount of progress recently.

- Body panel swap is officially complete. (Had to swap out door wiring harness)
- 99+ rear storage box swap
- Tundra 199mm brake upgrade. (Still in question if it was worth it)
- Wheelers SS brake line front and rear
- Bumper finally installed, new bumper brackets from rock auto. (Did not line up perfectly, but works)
- Scored some lc80 wheels for $200

Here's a complete pic, finally.

Tundra Brakes, the red is annoying but I liked the fact that they were powder coated. My last calipers looked shot after the Midwest winters

LC80 wheels for the win[emoji1373] (Got a set of 5)

The lc's will be mounted with a set of 265/75r16 toyo open country at3 this week. I'm leaving for a trip to Colorado this week and need new tires before the 2500 mile road trip.

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