
View attachment 342052
I went through a similar situation about two years ago with my Runner. First off, don't settle on the shop that is going to do your work. I reached out to the guys insurance company to get a list of their "recommended repair shops." I then did a ton of research and found one that had great reviews and were willing to answer my questions. I also demanded all OEM parts. I sent my vehicle back once because my side mirror was scratched. They replaced it, no questions asked. Don't settle on anything, make sure everything looks and feels the same before saying you are ok with repairs. All in my repairs totaled just under $13k and I had a loaner for 6 weeks.
Now for the diminished value claim: After the repairs were all done, I took the vehicle to Carmax to get appraised. I then took it to two other local dealerships to get a trade in value. I then went "shopping" for the exact model 4runner I had with all the same options and roughly same mileage. Key here is to go across the country. I then took the three highest values of cars being sold and compared that to the average of the three trade in values I got from the dealerships. I then figured out the difference between those values and tacked on an extra $2k for wiggle room in negotiations with the insurance company. I contacted them, sent over all my research. They balked at first because I was asking for $7k in diminished value and they were offering $1500. They tried to tell me an SR5 was similar enough to my trail. I firmly said no. Reiterated my $7k demand. The adjuster said they'd have to get supervisor approval but they stressed they didn't think I could get it (it's their job to pay out as little as possible). After a week of back and forth and them only coming up to $3500 I finally said, either you can pay me $6k or any further negotiations can be directed to my lawyer. Needless to say they caved and I got my $6k. I think the important thing here was that I was organized, had multiple sources of information, and stuck to my guns.
Ultimately I kept my truck, immediately paid down the balance with the diminished value funds and moved on with my life. I've had zero issues since but I know the shop who did the work is top notch. Had I not been ok with the shop's work I would've swapped out with the diminished value funds and moved on. Just thought my experience might help you out.
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View attachment 342052
I went through a similar situation about two years ago with my Runner. First off, don't settle on the shop that is going to do your work. I reached out to the guys insurance company to get a list of their "recommended repair shops." I then did a ton of research and found one that had great reviews and were willing to answer my questions. I also demanded all OEM parts. I sent my vehicle back once because my side mirror was scratched. They replaced it, no questions asked. Don't settle on anything, make sure everything looks and feels the same before saying you are ok with repairs. All in my repairs totaled just under $13k and I had a loaner for 6 weeks.
Now for the diminished value claim: After the repairs were all done, I took the vehicle to Carmax to get appraised. I then took it to two other local dealerships to get a trade in value. I then went "shopping" for the exact model 4runner I had with all the same options and roughly same mileage. Key here is to go across the country. I then took the three highest values of cars being sold and compared that to the average of the three trade in values I got from the dealerships. I then figured out the difference between those values and tacked on an extra $2k for wiggle room in negotiations with the insurance company. I contacted them, sent over all my research. They balked at first because I was asking for $7k in diminished value and they were offering $1500. They tried to tell me an SR5 was similar enough to my trail. I firmly said no. Reiterated my $7k demand. The adjuster said they'd have to get supervisor approval but they stressed they didn't think I could get it (it's their job to pay out as little as possible). After a week of back and forth and them only coming up to $3500 I finally said, either you can pay me $6k or any further negotiations can be directed to my lawyer. Needless to say they caved and I got my $6k. I think the important thing here was that I was organized, had multiple sources of information, and stuck to my guns.
Ultimately I kept my truck, immediately paid down the balance with the diminished value funds and moved on with my life. I've had zero issues since but I know the shop who did the work is top notch. Had I not been ok with the shop's work I would've swapped out with the diminished value funds and moved on. Just thought my experience might help you out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Car accident + not your fault + significant damage + injuries = lawyer.
WTF is so hard about that? They may take a part of the settlement but they will - almost without exception - still get you more money than you would get without a lawyer.
Yes, it is hard to justify "what???? They're getting 30% for a few phone calls and a letter or two", but you've got to get over that and look at the $21k settlement with a lawyer (so $14k to you) is better than the $10k you might get without a lawyer.
Further, the first thing a lawyer will tell you is to stop posting - but that doesn't mean that you can't come back with "here's my new ride"
This is the difficult part. You need a lawyer that is well versed in vehicle accidents, but isn't an ambulance chaser.How should one approach selecting a good accident / injury lawyer? I hate just to go off of Yelp reviews because of all the shills.
Been following this thread... I called a lawyer when this happened to me. It was a lawyer I was already paying for another issue, so had an existing relationship. I had scrapes and a bruise. Not my fault, witnesses present, favorable police report and a totaled 4runner (airbags deployed).My consul said it will cost $3000 to get started.
He will ask are you hurt. That is the money question.
I said just a bruise and scrapes. He didn't think there was a payout beyond what I'd get without his help. He gave me some tips about fair value, not accepting an offer I didn't think was fair. Using nearby comparable vehicles to make my point about value. Some of the same stuff said in this thread. Progressive (other driver insurance) tried to show me 4runners 200 miles away with 50,000 more miles as comps, no way! Your comps are brand new $runners so show them your comps when they show theirs.
I got an extra $500 from the other driver's insurance for the bruise and scrapes. I had to push hard to get fair value for my 2008 4runner ($15,500) Other driver had Progressive. I guess I could have demanded $1000 for the bruise, but it was just a 5 inch bruise and I wanted to be fair. I was lucky not to be hurt beyond that!
My point is lawyers are expensive and unless there is a big personal injury payout on the horizon, it just does't pay to get a lawyer. It sucks but that is the economics of the situation. If the OP is hurt then by all means go the personal injury route. But if it's mainly the auto repair just push hard for fair value, get estimates from expensive repair shops and don't take no for answer. If the conversation about value stalls, say let's talk tomorrow. Time is your best negotiation tool. You have to have more of it than they do. Get a rental if you need to, pay out of pocket, you will get reimbursed if the accident is their fault, its called Subrogation.
You need to get your 4runner totaled. Sounds like the driveline issues will total it. Be patient. Insurance will push back hard because it's brand new. You have the power to say no, no no until they agree. Put yourself in a position where you have time to wait. They will get ready to settle 30 days after the accident as they have more motivation to close a deal than you. You are in a position of power because this was not your fault.
Don't accept recon'd wheels!
I had a firestone blowout on my other suv and it did 2k damage to the right rear of the truck, they used recon'd alloy OEM wheels from a major distributor of these wheels. Fast forward 7 years towing a 10k travel trailer and slowed in rush hour traffic from 65 mph. A few minutes of stop and go traffic and suddenly the truck would not accelerate, knew right away it was a flat tire. Got into a construction zone and saw that the entire bead flange had fractured then split circumferentially, I changed it out then drove to a local (out of town) discount tire. When the tire was broken down what did I find on the broken wheel? The labels from the refurbish company. I went round and round with the body shop, they pushed it off to wheel company. Also went rounds with the insurance company but both stated that too much time had passed to do anything about it. DO NOT ACCEPT THOSE WHEELS! 99% of them are most likely from wrecks where nobody can say if they are going to be okay. I told them both that wheels should be treated like any other safety item that should not be used.
what part of indiana?
Probably last post here. I put it in 4 Wheel drive this morning and could tell something is bent...it wobbled pretty bad and binds up horribly making turns. And yes, I tested it out prior to buying and it was perfect.
Just throwing this out there, but your center transfer case doesn’t operate unlocked, meaning that it’s is supposed to wobble / bind up on high traction surfaces when making turns.
Unless you were on dirt, I would expect that from my 4WD system on pavement. If you were on dirt, or driving straight and got a bunch of that, then I would be concerned.
Glad you got it all sorted out too.