The combo Ive been running for almost 20 years on all my vehicles from my 07 Charger SRT8 to my sons off road pre runner ford explorer sport trac, which he named his Zombie Apocolypse Fast Attack vehicle! lol.
this system works when done correctly. Our T4's have a tendency to warp rotors front and rear. Since Ive done my upgrade about 6 years ago, I have not had another warped rotor, and the stopping power is kick ass. So here it is;
Power Slot[/B ]Slotted Rotors made by CENTRIC. Do NOT use cross drilled rotors.
Front brake pads: Hawk 5.0 or HPS pads. The HPS product is being replaced by the new and better 5.0 series. They work awesome!
Rear brake pads: Hawk HPS pads.
Replace the factory brake lines with stainless steel braided lines.
Flush your brake fluid yearly or so with high temp high quality brake fluid.
The most important thing is to prep your calipers, piston boots, and slide pins correctly. Every oil change I spray brake cleaner in the caliper area to keep the piston boots ect clean and free of debris.
Lastly, and this is only an option is you live in a climate with very little rain. I remove the front dust shields on the front rotors. I live in the hot desert southwest. I too drive my rigs very hard and fast off road, where brake temps can get pretty high. Do not remove the rear dust shields.
Very lastly, is a cool down lap just like in motorsports. The reason most forms of motorsports have cool down laps is, just for that, to let things cool down to help prevent damage. One of the biggest reasons for brake damage is people drive theri rigs in a spirited manner, then they get to their final destination and park the rig with scalding hot ass rotors. Then they take their rig back to their mechanic screaming about the shitty job he did on their brakes. Its one of my biggest arguments with customers. And in my shop,,,the customer is not always right. Im a racer, and brakes and chassis setups are just a couple of my specialties.
I have my son, and wife trained to think about driving mellow the last couple of miles before they reach their final destination in order to help prevent rotor warpage. This works! Also, when driving hard and approaching a traffic light, try to not sit on the brakes in the same spot the entire time you are at the light. This is bad on the rotors. What I do is stop a little short and put the car in nuetral, which pulls the pads ever so slightly from the rotors allowing some heat to escape. Then I will put it in drive and let the vehicle creep up a few inches allowing the rotor to rotate and not sit the hot pads on one spot. I know this sounds like a lot to ask for. But trust me, if you are a spirited driver like me, these are the things you need to do to keep your brake package working at its best. Trust me, and you wont be sorry. Just follow the rules to the Tee! Let me know how it works out.
