URD 5th Gen Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter rayofsi
- Start date
There's always ways around the smog tests here. A few buddies of mine have smog people that will pass their cars for them.
Jetboy
New member
My hunch is that CARB's emissions rules are not long for this world. If the EPA so desires it will strip California of its ability to have it's own emissions standards. - the whole supremacy clause thing. And it's looking more and more likely that the EPA will do just that. It may be reasonable to put the process on hold temporarily to see if the EPA revokes California's additional rules. IMO it's probably 70-80% likely that the EPA will eliminate CARB's additional rules.
Can’t imagine that takes another 10-14hrs.
Jetboy
New member
I think that's probably pretty reasonable. You need to strip down the dash and work underneath on the wiring install for the ECU. Then pull your skid plate, drain the gas tank (hopefully you're on empty, everytime I've dropped a fuel tank it's been full - and incidentally always GM trucks - they use terrible quality oem parts), Split the fuel tank lines, drop the fuel tank, etc. And you're going to need to pull the fuel rails, remove injectors, and replace.
There's quite a few steps there. 10hrs for a first timer is reasonable estimate. But I don't know personally what type of fuel line connections Toyota uses, or what else is required that I might be forgetting when priming the system, etc.
I like the concept of the URD kit being a larger impeller system because it probably allows you to max at 5psi, but hit 5psi of boost quite a bit earlier in the rpm range. I don't care much about peak power. I'm more interested in how much power it would make at 2500 rpms even it that means opening the bypass earlier and giving up some high rpm power. OTOH the Mag. kit is well sorted and has a lot of experience behind it.
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TheWraith
New member
I have my ways too ... but why deal with the extra hassle ??? I mean my hook ups arent guaranteed to be there in 2 years when I'm ready to smog my 4runner
Bill_B
New member
Having done a few Magnuson's before (none on a Toyota), I would imagine that's just because they give you an inline fuel pump.
Assuming this item is a "drop-in" pump, I would prefer this to an inline anyways.
URD 255 LPH fuel pump/filter kit
mikey's2010SR5
New member
Got an email from Gadget and they are going to CARB exempt the kit. Sounds like a part needed to be changed before doing it. Guess I know which supercharger I will go with. Now to save the mula.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
Ordered mine today after talking with Gadget for the past few days. It sounds like they really put a lot of effort into making this a complete kit.
He said they didn't get the required intercooler radiators and water pump control harnesses in, now expects to ship early June.
He said they didn't get the required intercooler radiators and water pump control harnesses in, now expects to ship early June.
DesertCanyons
New member
Turbocharger
Whatever the EPA does during the Chump administration can be undone shortly after the 2020 election, assuming Trump is ousted by his own party or replaced by a Democrat. Sooner if the House and Senate flip to the Democrat party in November.
I'd like to have more power at the low end too. Most of my driving is below 2500 rpm. Peak high speed power is fairly efficient now with the OEM system.
The hidden cost of this turbocharger system is the higher octane gas it requires. Here in California that 91 octane supreme gas costs about 20 cents more per gallon than regular. The price of gas is going back up. It's risen $1/gal in the past 12 months.
What happens to gas mileage with a supercharger/turbocharger? If you're getting more power and you need a higher output fuel pump, I assume you're using more gas per mile.
Whatever the EPA does during the Chump administration can be undone shortly after the 2020 election, assuming Trump is ousted by his own party or replaced by a Democrat. Sooner if the House and Senate flip to the Democrat party in November.
I'd like to have more power at the low end too. Most of my driving is below 2500 rpm. Peak high speed power is fairly efficient now with the OEM system.
The hidden cost of this turbocharger system is the higher octane gas it requires. Here in California that 91 octane supreme gas costs about 20 cents more per gallon than regular. The price of gas is going back up. It's risen $1/gal in the past 12 months.
What happens to gas mileage with a supercharger/turbocharger? If you're getting more power and you need a higher output fuel pump, I assume you're using more gas per mile.
AdventureMotors
New member
Very interested to start seeing some real world feedback on this kit.
On paper it is certainly more appealing than the Magnuson kit...
On paper it is certainly more appealing than the Magnuson kit...
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
Gadget says this is supposed to be a complete kit, only need shop supplies, RightStuff Gasket Maker, LockTite, and coolant.
Included: UCON-EMS ECU Auto-tune box (plugs in between main harness and OEM ECU), Fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel injectors, pulleys, belt, spark plugs, intake tube, clamps, etc.
Still waiting on my shipment info, but I was a few down the list in line of orders.
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rayofsi
New member
yes.
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
Got shipment information today! Just have to see when the install shop can get me in their schedule. Last he said was booking about 3 weeks out.
I asked about this because down near my folks 93 is not common. Gadget said it will require the highest octane available. When asked about 90 octane 100% gas vs 91 octane 10% ethanol he restated "highest octane available" Thinking I might just keep a couple bottles of octane booster in the truck for when I'm out in the country.
Ethanol
uke:
Just found this in the installation manual for the FJ:
I asked about this because down near my folks 93 is not common. Gadget said it will require the highest octane available. When asked about 90 octane 100% gas vs 91 octane 10% ethanol he restated "highest octane available" Thinking I might just keep a couple bottles of octane booster in the truck for when I'm out in the country.
Ethanol
uke:Just found this in the installation manual for the FJ:
URD Godzilla Whipple Supercharger Installation Guide for FJ Cruiser 1GR-FE said:
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rayofsi
New member
Got shipment information today! Just have to see when the install shop can get me in their schedule. Last he said was booking about 3 weeks out.
I asked about this because down near my folks 93 is not common. Gadget said it will require the highest octane available. When asked about 90 octane 100% gas vs 91 octane 10% ethanol he restated "highest octane available" Thinking I might just keep a couple bottles of octane booster in the truck for when I'm out in the country.
Ethanol
quoting the FJ install manual
wfo9
New member
Any FI for this motor is going to require the highest octane you can find. 105 would be about ideal, but they will survive on 91. The static compression is simply too high for anything else. The motor really wants 91 NA and a few lbs of boost and it is really wanting it.
As far as running lower octane goes... just stay out of it when you can't run 93 and pay attention to heat soak. All these top mounted units with heat exchangers suffer from it to some extent. You will have plenty of power on tap without beating the crap out of it.. To put it in perspective... keep the torque output to near stock levels with your foot and the octane requirements should not change much at all. More power.. more dynamic compression + higher intake temps and therefore more octane required to eliminate detonation.
I have no idea how the knock sensing works with the piggyback, I would ask about that as it is very important. I assume they adjust off the base and that is the reason for his recommendation to run 2 tanks of high octane before install. The ECU will learn the fuel and has knock learn. People argue with me that it does not learn and do any better with high octane, but I've observed it and disagree completely.
Each motor is a little different too. Some just like to knock from carbon build up and oil in the PCV line. I highly recommend a catch can and a good cleaning of the runners and ports during the install. It's pretty easy while you are in there.. just takes time and a little patience.
As far as running lower octane goes... just stay out of it when you can't run 93 and pay attention to heat soak. All these top mounted units with heat exchangers suffer from it to some extent. You will have plenty of power on tap without beating the crap out of it.. To put it in perspective... keep the torque output to near stock levels with your foot and the octane requirements should not change much at all. More power.. more dynamic compression + higher intake temps and therefore more octane required to eliminate detonation.
I have no idea how the knock sensing works with the piggyback, I would ask about that as it is very important. I assume they adjust off the base and that is the reason for his recommendation to run 2 tanks of high octane before install. The ECU will learn the fuel and has knock learn. People argue with me that it does not learn and do any better with high octane, but I've observed it and disagree completely.
Each motor is a little different too. Some just like to knock from carbon build up and oil in the PCV line. I highly recommend a catch can and a good cleaning of the runners and ports during the install. It's pretty easy while you are in there.. just takes time and a little patience.
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