URD 7th Injector Tuning Guide

[JayRolla]

What's the 70/30 mix? What to what? I have heard 30% more fuel needed.

With my 7th injector system, walbro 190 I guess I'd be fine. I'd probably throw on the stock pulley or 2.2 to test 85. Sure wouldn't run the 2.0 like I am now.


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70 e85. 30 gas. Mazda guys make way over 400whp on this mix and can handle lots of timing and boost. If your 7th injector can handle roughly 21% more fuel flow at WOT you should be fine. If fuel pump becomes issue you can get almost 15% more flow running thick gauge power line directly from pump to battery with a relay. You can get more injector flow raising fuel pressure with aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.

My dsm has a 255lph HP hard wired at 43psi and 1200cc injectors. On e85 I my injectors where at 70% at only 400whp. You want to keep injectors at 80% ideally.

 

[wademcgee]

New Member

In for info, learning this tuning thing myself. I'll post some info up in the new member area as soon as they let me.

 

[SqWADoosh]

Great thread. Is the process the same for the "Performance Calibrator" found here: Underdog Racing Development

I have a 98 that I picked up that was modded back in 2002 with a first gen SC, smaller pulley, URD bigger injectors (what they offered before the 7th), and the Performance Calibrator I linked above. The truck ran great and pulled hard until I 3 linked the front and had to ditch the stock intake in order to fit a shock tower. I put on an intake from HPS that is now leaning the truck out pretty bad. I think the problem comes from the intake being 3" going into the MAF rather than the stock 2.5". I spoke with Gadget about it and he said I should be able to counter it with a tune on my calibrator. However I have never done this before so in my research on it I came across this thread. Seems like it is chock full of knowledge so just looking for a helping hand.

I have an AEM Uego wideband that will be here tomorrow. As well as two serial to usb cords (the RS232 with FTDI chipset) one for my calibrator to computer and one for my serial connection from my wideband that I'll need to jimmy rig up with another serial cord I'll have to cut into and tap into two wires from what I understand. I am going to a buddies house who has a scan tool to do the tune. From what I gather my best bet for monitoring software for the wideband is rom raider. I'm going to the exhaust shop tomorrow to have the stainless bung welded in. Can anyone see anything I've missed?

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge! :hatsoff:

 

[JayRolla]

Great thread. Is the process the same for the "Performance Calibrator" found here: Underdog Racing Development

I have a 98 that I picked up that was modded back in 2002 with a first gen SC, smaller pulley, URD bigger injectors (what they offered before the 7th), and the Performance Calibrator I linked above. The truck ran great and pulled hard until I 3 linked the front and had to ditch the stock intake in order to fit a shock tower. I put on an intake from HPS that is now leaning the truck out pretty bad. I think the problem comes from the intake being 3" going into the MAF rather than the stock 2.5". I spoke with Gadget about it and he said I should be able to counter it with a tune on my calibrator. However I have never done this before so in my research on it I came across this thread. Seems like it is chock full of knowledge so just looking for a helping hand.

I have an AEM Uego wideband that will be here tomorrow. As well as two serial to usb cords (the RS232 with FTDI chipset) one for my calibrator to computer and one for my serial connection from my wideband that I'll need to jimmy rig up with another serial cord I'll have to cut into and tap into two wires from what I understand. I am going to a buddies house who has a scan tool to do the tune. From what I gather my best bet for monitoring software for the wideband is rom raider. I'm going to the exhaust shop tomorrow to have the stainless bung welded in. Can anyone see anything I've missed?

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge! :hatsoff:

Sounds like the tune is off, maxing fuel trims and your ecu is not able to compensate for the intake. You need to get base tune for the injectors so fuel trims are near 100% then retune WOT.

 

[SqWADoosh]

Sounds like the tune is off, maxing fuel trims and your ecu is not able to compensate for the intake. You need to get base tune for the injectors so fuel trims are near 100% then retune WOT.

Ok yeah that is what I'm thinking as well. Is the tuning process the same as in this thread? With the exception of choosing "program signal calibrator" in the system settings?

 

[JayRolla]

Ok yeah that is what I'm thinking as well. Is the tuning process the same as in this thread? With the exception of choosing "program signal calibrator" in the system settings?

I'm not quite sure on that. I have general knowledge on tuning cars. I have tuned safc, maf translator, greddy emanage, dsmlink, ecmlink. They all generally tune cars the same way, just done differently. I have yet to tune a toyota 3.4l.

 

[4Reak Show]

http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf

Read it. Read it again. Read it one more time.

Then play around with the program. It's a little wonky but works once you figure it out. I've done a fair share with the 7th and had fairly good success. I'd have to imagine the MAF is the same principle, but you gotta know what you're looking for.

Pretty sure max power on these engines is like 11.8:1 AFR according to:
http://www.speedysgarage.net/sportr...rtrunner_trd_supercharger_analysis_tuning.htm

Again, not 100% for the MAF calibrator.

I would finalize the install of the UEGO and see what numbers are shooting out before messing with the tune.

Good luck.

 

[SqWADoosh]

What are you guys recommending for a scan tool these days now that the br-3 that gadget used to recommend is no longer available?

 

[MrMigs]

Hi guys,

Just want to be clear... do I HAVE to tune the 7th injector kit, or can I just run with the default map that URD installed with the kit as shipped?

I'm in Calgary, so pretty high elevation if that matters, and the truck is mostly daily driven. Not looking for crazy power, just want the damn truck to run right (and not stall at idle).

Thanks!

 

[4Reak Show]

Hi guys,

Just want to be clear... do I HAVE to tune the 7th injector kit, or can I just run with the default map that URD installed with the kit as shipped?

I'm in Calgary, so pretty high elevation if that matters, and the truck is mostly daily driven. Not looking for crazy power, just want the damn truck to run right (and not stall at idle).

Thanks!

1) Well first of all, your stalling at idle will unlikely be fixed with the 7th injector kit. The engine should run perfectly fine with the supercharger alone. I know that for a fact. So your stalling is likely a dirty/sticking IAC valve or MAF issue/intake leak. That needs to be addressed prior to installing the 7th, in my opinion.

2) you do not HAVE to tune it. I ran mine with the stock map with minimal issue. It did help, but for me I got it to where I want it and am happy.

If it were me, I'd fix your idle issue FIRST AND FOREMOST. Then install the 7th and drive it for awhile. See how you like it. The system is easy to tweak once you get the hang of the software.

Good luck.

 

[MrMigs]

Thanks for the quick reply!

I thoroughly, and I mean thoroughly cleaned the IAC valve and it didn't help the issue. After my technician buddy had a chat with the boys at URD they said that it's something that's come up before, and the 7th injector kit should fix it.

Good to know I shouldn't need to tune it. After sifting through all the posts I'm seriously not interested in tackling that...let alone buying another sensor and blowing the dust off my old pos PC...

 

[indetrucks]

Indeed. And for the record I did have to add quite a bit of retard on the lower end to combat knock. Only like 100' elevation and summers in the 90-100's so it got bad sometimes. Plus being a manual, I'd be at like 2,000 RPM in some gears to accelerate and 2-3K rpm seemed to need quite a bit of retard to stop be knocking.

Sucks, cuz you can feel the power difference, but at the price of NOT blowing up my motor, I'll take it. Never gonna be a race car.

Wow.. this was literally me! Manual trans and between 2-3k floored was a bad idea. I was able to retard enough to eliminate the knock at 2500+ but still knocks between the 2-2500 range. I only played with the timing and didn't touch the injector. Idle 14.7 AFR and full boost 11.8

Did you play with your injector at all or just your timing? What are the odds of me checking out your current map?

 

[4Reak Show]

Wow.. this was literally me! Manual trans and between 2-3k floored was a bad idea. I was able to retard enough to eliminate the knock at 2500+ but still knocks between the 2-2500 range. I only played with the timing and didn't touch the injector. Idle 14.7 AFR and full boost 11.8



Did you play with your injector at all or just your timing? What are the odds of me checking out your current map?

I had read somewhere along my initial tuning research that being richer can also help to alleviate knock based on cooling the overall mixture. So yes, I did add fuel at first. Quite a bit actually. I want say like 10% additional to the entire map, maybe even did that twice. And then still had to add more at lower rpm/boost levels. I figured I wanted mine to be adding fuel anytime I was boosting so my fuel and timing additions start on the really low side.

Down side, I'm probably too rich at WOT. Sometimes drops to high 10's. But then I also read somewhere that Gadget claimed "you can never be too rich". I don't know, it's a balancing act. And then once you get it dialed in for your elevation and temperature, the season changes and it's all out of whack again. Sort of just picked a point where it seems to do what I wanted. Being richer and less advanced is safer, and should only cost you a catalytic converter after a lot of abuse. I just don't drive it like that. I only get on it to blast passed an unsuspecting Subaru or pull a hill or an on- ramp and rarely for extended periods of times.

Here are my maps as requested

Mao a/timing:

Map b/fuel (notice how low it starts! That's what it took for my system to start showing anything lower than like 13.9 at that rpm range)

I haven't messed with it for a long time due to lack of free time but I probably need to pull some fuel out haha. For now, the exhaust smell doesn't bother me

 

[paddlenbike]

^^ those maps look pretty similar to mine. You ought to post them in this thread...hopefully it can become somewhat of a clearinghouse for tuning maps to help other people get started.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/140556-urd-7th-injector-tuning-maps.html

 

[TRD 4RNR]

1. I've been able to get the R4 Engine Management Software installed on my Laptop.
2. Installed the Driver for the Serial -> USB Cable I bought.
3. Figure out that it's looking for COM4
4. Connect to the ECU
5. When I click "READ DATA FROM ECU" I get the pics below. Do these look like the stock map(s) ?

EDIT: Just noticed this: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/201123-urd-7th-injector-tuning-guide.html#post2061716 - so it looks like I do have the stock map.

I'm running the 2.2 pulley and need to get a better tune. Anyone near San Francisco (that knows more about tuning) available to lend a hand?
[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] [MENTION=9596]paddlenbike[/MENTION] [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION]

 

[4Reak Show]

[MENTION=78100]TRD 4RNR[/MENTION]

Yeah those maps look stock.

I'm sort of in your area to help you, probably like 90 minutes to get to me. It's tough for me to find time. Especially now. If you want to swap phone numbers or something we can try and get together after the holidays and mess with it. Or I can try and guide you as best as I know. If you have the AFR gauge you can get dialed in pretty close overall. Stock seems to work pretty well for most people.

 

[TRD 4RNR]

[MENTION=78100]TRD 4RNR[/MENTION]
If you have the AFR gauge you can get dialed in pretty close overall.

I'll spend the next few weeks getting the AFR ironed out.
Looks like most folks are running: AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

And then some time after the 1st of the year it would be great to try to meet up - I'm in over my head when it comes to tuning.

Thanks and Happy Holidays !

 

[4Reak Show]

Cool. I run the UEGO Air/Fuel Boost combo gauge. AEM 30-4900 I believe. It's cool because in one glance you can get a good idea of boost pressure and AFR, which are 2/3 of the criteria for tuning with the URD Kit. The 3rd being RPM. (It also logs but i found it difficult to match the logged value with the matching rpm)

At any rate, I can try and assist when we get on the same page. The URD system is pretty easy once you learn the process of changing and loading values to get the results you want. Again, I'm willing to bet the stock tune will be about right. Might just need to add 10-15% more fuel for the pulley change and maybe a hair on the timing map as well.

The other thing to be aware of is ambient air temp. A winter tune at 60 degrees will give way different results than in 90-100 degree temp in elevation. Best advice is to drive it and see how she feels!

 

[FreshCoast4runner]

This tune works very well for myself and I would like share with you guys!!

2002 4runner Limited
~900ft above sea level

• TRD SuperCharger 2nd Gen (Black)
• 2002 toyota OEM fuel injectors
• Walbro 190 LPH
• 7th Injector kit with URD Performance Calibration Unit – AIC/Timing Calibrator with built in part throttle boost enrichment module
• URD 2.2 pulley
• Airaid MIT Modular Intake Tube
• stock air box
• 4.30 final drive
• 255/85/16 tires

• Manifold Air pressure reaches ~10psi (this is surprising based on others members numbers)
• idle AFR: 14.7 (Timing advance: ~20deg)
• part throttle closed loop AFR: 13.4-12.8 (Timing advance: ~19deg)
• WOT open loop AFR: 11.8-10.8 (Timing advance: ~16deg)

Ordered the "URD AFR Sensor Calibrator" to richen the closed loop air fuel ratio and provide more power within closed loop. I will post new maps once installed and tuned, if there is any interest.

 

[FreshCoast4runner]

Installed the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator!!
This was exactly what the truck needed. The timing map is back to stock URD and no more knock during closed loop- open loop transition.