URD 7th Injector Tuning Guide

Installed the URD AFR Sensor Calibrator!!
This was exactly what the truck needed. The timing map is back to stock URD and no more knock during closed loop- open loop transition.

Is this different than the computer box that comes with the 7th injector?

Does it look like this?


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Recently super charged my 99 limited. ben struggling with the all mighty ping!! So thankful to have this forum as a resource. Im not dialed in yet, but wanted to reach out and thank you longtime members for posting great info. Appreciate all the knowledge I have gained from various threads.
 
I have this setup with a 2.1 pulley and if you retard the timing to much to remove the high gear low rpm ping your knock sensor will throw a code. anyone experienced this?
 
I have the 2.1” pulley. When I initially installed the pulley I got the HGLRPM ping. It also pinged at 4500-5000 rpm. After pulling timing both at 1000 rpm and starting at 0.5 psi, I also added fuel starting at 1000 rpm and now I have zero high gear low rpm ping and drivability is great! Pulled timing and added fuel up top as well. Problem solved. If you want some screen grabs send me a PM with a cel number to reach you. Happy to share.

I have this setup with a 2.1 pulley and if you retard the timing to much to remove the high gear low rpm ping your knock sensor will throw a code. anyone experienced this?
 
Beat me to it. I had better results removing ping using BOTH maps and finding a balance. Pulling too much timing removes way too much power. Adding too much fuel makes it too rich and therefore removes power.

Try and get the fuel portion dialed in first. Partial boost you want about 12.5:1 AFR and full boost/WOT the sweet spot seems to be 11.8:1. I run mine a bit richer just because it gets hot in the summer and tends to ping more.

From there I only had to pull a bit more timing to completely remove ping. Fuel first, drive a bit, timing second. That's my understanding.
 
Hey all.

I have 1996 T4R 3.4L M/T with 1st gen S/C and URD 7th.

Having problems with ignition loss. Just dies with tach to zero. If in flight and in gear I just turn key off and back on and I'm back in business. If it shuts down when stopped I have to turn key to off position prior to restarting otherwise it just cranks with no start. CEL P0335 crankshaft position sensor pops up. Swapped sensor from my Tacoma and same stuff. Tacoma runs fine on either sensor. Bench tested sensor anyways and all seems good. So then I started testing harness from sensor plug back to factory ECU plug(E7) pins 6 and 12. Have continuity and 1.7 ohms resistance. I have a piggy back harness set up where line 12 runs into URD module and back out. However I have no continuity on this line.

Can anyone tell me if there should be continuity running into and out of URD module?
 
So no one has anything for me?

How about this. What if I bypass the URD module and just run on my ECU to determine if the fault with the CPS is from the ECU. I figure I’ll be running lean but will it be ok to drive for 5 mins to see if I stall or not? That way I can rule in or rule out the ECU as my issue.

I’m stuck right now as I have to get this sorted quick. I’m driving to Denver to take my daughter to school. Much appreciate any help.
 
So no one has anything for me?

How about this. What if I bypass the URD module and just run on my ECU to determine if the fault with the CPS is from the ECU. I figure I’ll be running lean but will it be ok to drive for 5 mins to see if I stall or not? That way I can rule in or rule out the ECU as my issue.

I’m stuck right now as I have to get this sorted quick. I’m driving to Denver to take my daughter to school. Much appreciate any help.


URD 7th isn’t mandatory, never was. The supercharger will run fine off stock ECU without fuel mods. It may ping at lower rpm’s under load. It’s easy to avoid these in a manual as you simply kick it down a gear.

To alleviate your concern: I ran my supercharger for over 3 years on stock ECU with only the larger fuel pump. No 7th. No piggy back. No tune. It pinged at specific load/rpm ranges, but I just avoided those areas. So electrically bypassing or removing the URD computer is fine.

For root of problem: I would guess it’s a connection issue. But to help we would need some more info. Like what sort of connection, in general is between the stock harness and the URD? Is it a homemade one with butt connectors? Is it hardwired with soldered wires? Is it one of those fancy million-wire bridge connector things?

I would eliminate the vehicle’s stock components being and issue first by bypassing as you are doing. Then at least you know it’s either a connection issue, or the URD itself is acting funny.
 
Hey 4reak thanks for the response. So I just took the URD module out of the chain. I have one of those million wire bridges so I plugged my stock plugs directly into my ECU and problem solved. So URD module has some issue. I swear the rig drives better now using stock ECU.

Thanks again
 
Hey 4reak thanks for the response. So I just took the URD module out of the chain. I have one of those million wire bridges so I plugged my stock plugs directly into my ECU and problem solved. So URD module has some issue. I swear the rig drives better now using stock ECU.

Thanks again


Good to hear!

As far as finding the actual problem, I would verify the specific pins are 100% correctly used to feed to/from the URD. I know that there’s a bunch of variations of which pins do what, even on the same connector but on different year computers. Verifying wire colors would help confirm that.

I also wanted to chime in on your original post: you were curious about continuity through the URD unit and not finding it. Depending on how the electronics operate, you may not find it. So basically what I’m saying is that I wouldn’t consider that a nail in the coffin necessarily. It may be bad, but I’m not convinced the lack of continuity through the URD ECU is confirmation.
 
7th has been on there and working for years. All wired up correctly.

Left message for Gadget at URD to see if unit can be repaired or not. We’ll see.

I put it back in sequence to double check by reproducing issue and it did. As the problem frequency continued to increase over the last month I’d say the unit was slowly going bad.

But for now I’m good with stock ECU. Now I have to replace front axle seal this weekend as it’s been dripping slightly since I replaced axles last winter. I know, I should have done the seals then. Oh well. I know what and how to do now since I’ve swapped axles once.
 
[MENTION=297556]Runnah[/MENTION] Did you hear back from Gadget? I'm having a similar stall/no start issue on a 01 tacoma 3.4l with second gen black SC and Split Second FTC1. I have not disconnected the FTC yet but the problems getting worse.

Trucks now throwing a P034 cam sensor bank1 code but testing the sensor shows it within specs. I've had this problem since I purchased the truck over five years ago but it was infrequent and none of the shops I've been to have been able to figure it out.

When I came across your posts it sounded vey similar. I just sent a message to URD to see if they had any ideas before I try driving around with the FTC disconnected. I would very much like to install the 7th injector kit but figuring out this problem is the priority before I do anything else.
 
So it seems like you did not change the closed loop tune at all? How does that affect the way the truck works at high rpm or rough driving?
 
final map?

sorry to bump an old thread, but i've been having trouble tuning my 7th injector. (and i'm in a 2002 tacoma, shhhhh same engine!) i actually uploaded your same map and it completely got rid of all my pinging! finally success. (plus a new head gasket and TPS may have helped too) although i noticed a major dead spot in throttle between 6psi and 9psi in 4th and 5th gear. then i saw in your map A, around 3500 rpms and 5psi, the numbers seem to start dropping away compared to the lines above. perhaps this is causing my dead zone? you mentioned sharing your final maps if there was interest, well if your still around, i'd love to see it!


This tune works very well for myself and I would like share with you guys!!

2002 4runner Limited
~900ft above sea level
  • TRD SuperCharger 2nd Gen (Black)
  • 2002 toyota OEM fuel injectors
  • Walbro 190 LPH
  • 7th Injector kit with URD Performance Calibration Unit – AIC/Timing Calibrator with built in part throttle boost enrichment module
  • URD 2.2 pulley
  • Airaid MIT Modular Intake Tube
  • stock air box
  • 4.30 final drive
  • 255/85/16 tires

  • Manifold Air pressure reaches ~10psi (this is surprising based on others members numbers)
  • idle AFR: 14.7 (Timing advance: ~20deg)
  • part throttle closed loop AFR: 13.4-12.8 (Timing advance: ~19deg)
  • WOT open loop AFR: 11.8-10.8 (Timing advance: ~16deg)







Ordered the "URD AFR Sensor Calibrator" to richen the closed loop air fuel ratio and provide more power within closed loop. I will post new maps once installed and tuned, if there is any interest.
 

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