URD MK3 Full 304 Stainless TIG Welded Exhaust & Y Pipe V8 4.7L

[Formidable]

Serious lack of reviews for this product. So here it is. The OEM Y pipe and exhaust are VERY restricted. You can see both restrictions in the pic below. Follow the pipes and you will see a big kink in the Y pipe, (as the driver runner joins the collector), and another big kink in the over pipe as it traverses the rear cross member to the back muffler. Obviously URD addresses both of these problem areas beautifully. The OEM exhaust bolts needed to be cut as they were completely rust welded to the flange. There is a thin metal brace that serves no structural purpose that does not allow you to remove the drivers side runner of the Y pipe without unbolting it. Let’s call the OEM pipe what it is... the WHY pipe, or the WTF pipe.

Exhaust install took longer than expected due to removal of the OEM system. Once the OEM system was out of the way, the URD bolted up and aligned in 20-30 minutes.

Quality: 10/10

Fitment: 9/10 - Due to slight contact between rear cross member and over pipe. However this is pretty minor considering the diameter of the tubing. Not much real estate back there to work with. Flanges bolt up perfect, and hangers fit in grommets no issues. No modifications needed.

Sound: 10/10 - URD nailed it. Makes the engine sound like the V8 that it is. Deep rumble at start up and idle. Docile at highway cruising. Loud at WOT

Performance: 10/10 - Slight increase in throttle response. Prob around 10 hp. Largely due to the fact that now there are NO MORE KINKS!

Overall very happy with it.

Vids:

Start up and rev:

YouTube

Start up and rev inside cabin:

YouTube

Partial throttle acceleration and cruise:

YouTube

 

[JONBOY345]

Awesome stuff.

Any gains in MPG with hand calculations?

 

[TenTwelve]

Sounds great and a reasonable price to boot.

 

[sumday]

how is ~$1300 reasonable for a muffler, tip and tubing?

 

[Formidable]

Awesome stuff.

Any gains in MPG with hand calculations?

Not yet. Just installed the system. I doubt there’s any difference.

Sounds great and a reasonable price to boot.

Agree. Reasonably priced considering all 304 stainless TIG welded mandrel bent pipes, mufflers, and tip. Most systems use shitty 409 stainless or galvanized mild steel. Gross...

how is ~$1300 reasonable for a muffler, tip and tubing?

That price includes the y pipe... which no other system on the market includes at this time. There’s a small discount for forum members. Put in code “forummember” at checkout. If you find someone willing to build me a full 304 stainless system with full mandrel bends and TIG welds including Y pipe for less, I am ALL EARS.

 

[0verland]

Sounds great and a reasonable price to boot.

:crazy:

how is ~$1300 reasonable for a muffler, tip and tubing?

Agreed

Agree. Reasonably priced considering all 304 stainless TIG welded mandrel bent pipes, mufflers, and tip. Most systems use shitty 409 stainless or galvanized mild steel. Gross...

That price includes the y pipe... which no other system on the market includes at this time. There’s a small discount for forum members. Put in code “forummember” at checkout. If you find someone willing to build me a full 304 stainless system with full mandrel bends and TIG welds including Y pipe for less, I am ALL EARS.

I put in DT headers and a full Gibson exhaust for less than $1,300. Stock Y-pipe may be restrictive but the gain is not worth the cost. URD unfortunately is the only game in town and I contemplated buying the Y-pipe for over a year back when it was $100 less than it is now.

For $585... even with the discount dropping it down to $555.75 + $40-$50 dollars shipping thats absurd for the minimal gain.

 

[Inv4drZm]

:crazy:



Agreed



I put in DT headers and a full Gibson exhaust for less than $1,300. Stock Y-pipe may be restrictive but the gain is not worth the cost. URD unfortunately is the only game in town and I contemplated buying the Y-pipe for over a year back when it was $100 less than it is now.

For $585... even with the discount dropping it down to $555.75 + $40-$50 dollars shipping thats absurd for the minimal gain.

If your goal is performance and the y pipe is the only thing left to finish your truck $500 is chump change to some.

 

[Formidable]

Not sure what you’re trying to compare here... We are talking about a cat back exhaust and Y pipe. But for sh!ts and kicks, DT shorty headers are $759 and you need to WELD cats on. Gibson Exhaust is $588 and is either aluminized or 409 stainless. Both of which I am not interested.

Again... please find me a 304 stainless exhaust with mandrel bends and TIG welds including Y pipe available for the 4.7L. It doesn’t exist. So... Please point out a fabricator that will do the system for $1300 or less. Also doesn’t exist.

Again, price is reasonable for the quality you get.

:crazy:



Agreed



I put in DT headers and a full Gibson exhaust for less than $1,300. Stock Y-pipe may be restrictive but the gain is not worth the cost. URD unfortunately is the only game in town and I contemplated buying the Y-pipe for over a year back when it was $100 less than it is now.

For $585... even with the discount dropping it down to $555.75 + $40-$50 dollars shipping thats absurd for the minimal gain.

 

[0verland]

Not sure what you’re trying to compare here... We are talking about a cat back exhaust and Y pipe. But for sh!ts and kicks, DT shorty headers are $759 and you need to WELD cats on. Gibson Exhaust is $588 and is either aluminized or 409 stainless. Both of which I am not interested.

Again... please find me a 304 stainless exhaust with mandrel bends and TIG welds including Y pipe available for the 4.7L. It doesn’t exist. So... Please point out a fabricator that will do the system for $1300 or less. Also doesn’t exist.

Again, price is reasonable for the quality you get.

We are comparing power to cost here. If power were the main point, I certainly wouldn't be focusing on a $600 Y-pipe.

Thats what I paid... It's all about a little patience and finding the right deals. Cats aren't required so you can just weld on straight pipes. Can't really compare fabricator costs because they really very from city to city. You can see that in all the threads comparing install costs for exhausts and headers.

 

[Formidable]

Power to cost? Sorry to say buddy but your headers do absolutely zero with that restrictive y pipe. My system probably puts out more power than yours and will last longer as well. Don’t believe me? Blow through a straw. Now pinch the middle and blow again. What did you notice?

Don’t get me wrong. Not trying to poke the bear here. Some folks think the URD system is overpriced. That’s fine. You are entitled to your opinion.

We are comparing power to cost here. If power were the main point, I certainly wouldn't be focusing on a $600 Y-pipe.

Thats what I paid... It's all about a little patience and finding the right deals. Cats aren't required so you can just weld on straight pipes. Can't really compare fabricator costs because they really very from city to city. You can see that in all the threads comparing install costs for exhausts and headers.

 

[sumday]

agreed if you need 304 SS for a show truck. 304 ss for exhaust tip is understandable. shitty 409 is good enough for me for something i will never look at or polish while matching my frame

as far as y-pipe i would be satisfied with aftermarket replacement rear cats. the rear right pipe doesnt have the restrictive merge with cat. while rear left is available with mandrel bend or better bent pipe with cat if oem is too restrictive

overland, where did you get such a nice discount?

also noticed its two mufflers*

 

[Inv4drZm]

We are comparing power to cost here. If power were the main point, I certainly wouldn't be focusing on a $600 Y-pipe.

Thats what I paid... It's all about a little patience and finding the right deals. Cats aren't required so you can just weld on straight pipes. Can't really compare fabricator costs because they really very from city to city. You can see that in all the threads comparing install costs for exhausts and headers.

10HP for $600 = $60 per hp w/ Y-pipe

100hp for $6000 $60 per hp w/ Supercharger

Pretty darn close to pretty much the only other power-adder out there.

I don't see why you wouldn't spend the money on this Y-pipe if power was your main focus. Unless you didn't have the money or if you could find one for cheaper (you can't at this moment.)

The factory Y-Pipe is dual-walled and looks to me pretty restrictive.

 

[Formidable]

agreed if you need 304 SS for your show truck. 304 ss for exhaust tip is understandable. shitty 409 is good enough for me for something i will never look at or polish while matching my frame

as far as y-pipe i would be satisfied with aftermarket replacement rear cats. the rear right pipe doesnt have the restrictive merge with cat. while rear left is available with mandrel bend or better bent pipe with cat if oem is too restrictive

overland, where did you get such a nice discount?

also noticed its two mufflers*

This thing is far from a show truck. LOL I just have an appreciation for quality materials at a reasonable price. To replicate this system local fabricators have quoted well over 2k for TIG welded 304 stainless.

Both the stock y pipe and the stock over pipe traversing the rear cross member kink down to half the diameter. These two pipes are restrictive as fuk.

The URD has one magnaflow muffler, which as you know is a straight through design. Perforated center with stainless mesh filler. No restrictive chambers, (Flowmaster or cherry bomb obstruct flow like none other). The rear resonator is also a straight through design. So not sure what your point is by “two mufflers”. They provide zero restriction to airflow and are designed to reduce drone.

10HP for $600 = $60 per hp w/ Y-pipe

100hp for $6000 $60 per hp w/ Supercharger

Pretty darn close to pretty much the only other power-adder out there.

I don't see why you wouldn't spend the money on this Y-pipe if power was your main focus. Unless you didn't have the money or if you could find one for cheaper (you can't at this moment.)

The factory Y-Pipe is dual-walled and looks to me pretty restrictive.

Yep, I’m with you. I think what people are saying is that it can be done cheaper with inferior materials and construction. To which I say... By all means!

 

[riceandpho]

have you try out the exhaust without the resonator? you might get a louder tone.

 

[Formidable]

You could definitely remove the magnaflow if desired, (it’s just clamped in place), and it will sound like a nasty V8. You will get a sh1t ton of drone though. This thing is docile while cruising. It’s a family truck so this fits the bill perfectly.

have you try out the exhaust without the resonator? you might get a louder tone.

 

[doofenshmirtz]

The only reason I've not considered the Full URD kit with the DT headers is the straight rear exit tip combined with the issue of sulfur smell coming into the cabin.

Has this kit done anything for that smell? I ride with the windows down A LOT, especially the rear window, so I get the sulfur smell frequently. Because of that, I had only short-listed side exit exhausts for when I replace the exhaust system. If I can do the URD kit, I'd do it, though.

 

[MSRP.]

You can always just ask an exhaust shop to lop off the end of the included straight-back MF muffler and weld up a side exit.
Probably $100 all in.

 

[sumday]

sulfur smell? bad cats? install cats?

 

[doofenshmirtz]

It's a very common "problem" ...there's a TSB that basically says "it's your hig-sulfur fuel from non-California gas stations, not your cats." A google of "EG003-03" returns multiple results for the PDF explanation from Toyota. On top of that, though, there's another bulletin for excessive sulfur that has the cats replaced, but most have said it's not a 100% remedy. The most common route seems to be doing a side exit exhaust, so seeing as there aren't many reviews of a full replacement using the URD stuff, I wanted to see how the sulfur smell changed (or didn't). I'd rather not spend a bunch of money on a well built cat-back system, y-pipe, and headers only to chop the tip off of it to reroute it from the get-go.

 

[sumday]

never smell it. toyota calls for new rear cat and ecm reprogram. my experience is if it smells bad, cat(s) are bad.

according to toyota if its fuel try a different brand, octane or maybe a fuel treatment