using the stock battery for a power box - questions

[jayhat]

Somewhat of a newb when it comes to electrical work. Just have a few questions.


Looking to upgrade the truck with the following:


MK3 Micro blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version)
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/143-mk3-micro-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2013/

Spacer for Group 34 batteries
http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/spacer-for-group-34-batteries

Odyssey Batteries Extreme Series, Group 34R
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Electrical/Odyssey-Batteries-Extreme-Series-Group-34R-880-CCA-Top-Post-34R-PC1500T.aspx?t_c=72&t_s=12&t_pt=4219&t_pn=ODY34R-PC1500T

Just for peace of mind, I will probably get a CTEK 7002 and connect it to the battery every 2-3 weeks to ensure it's being properly charged. This will also integrate into the power box I have speced out below.

CTEK 7002
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3TLGG8HU84T9D&colid=16RAAS8RH18VZ&psc=0

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Now onto the box and the questions I have:

My thought was to use a fairly new battery I would be taking out of 2016 truck and using that in a box for an emergency power bank. I have a front runner wolfpack box that I currently keep my Goal Zero Yeti 150 and various camp lighting in. I would like the add the battery to the other side of the box and use it when more power was needed, emergencies, etc. If I just need the Yeti I can grab that out and go.

1) A regular car battery is not ideal for this right? A deep cycle would be better? I don't really care per se, because I am using up something that may just go to waste otherwise.

2) Is a car battery safe to keep "sealed" up in this box, in my house? the box isn't really sealed (no gaskets etc). I just dont really know how safe it is to keep a car battery in the house.

3) Does this equipment list look OK to outfit the rest of the box?

*CTEK 7002 - keep the battery charged up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3TLGG8HU84T9D&colid=16RAAS8RH18VZ&psc=0

*CTEK (56-382) Comfort Indicator Eyelet for M8 - keep connected to the battery to quick connect/disconnect the CTEK
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MT8S7E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1AUFI5NHGNZ61&psc=1

*POTEK 1000W Power Inverter - probably bolted to side of the box.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTDZ8P2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YZ44EQE6CQC7&psc=1

*Military style battery terminals
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRTZR0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A6AY1HFZHO49U&psc=1

*Triple Function Dual USB Charger + Voltmeter + 12V Outlet Socket Panel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKDXB8E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2054H79CM88G8&psc=1

*Dual function USB Charger + 12V Outlet Socket Panel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B79F8CW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2JU42WM4PJ26Q&psc=1

*Goal Zero Guardian 12V Plus Charge Controller - for charging the battery with my GZ 100 watt solar panel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HQNKKDA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3J2B1W4FOUJR1&colid=16RAAS8RH18VZ&psc=0

 

[TowMeOut]

I'd look elsewhere for a different charge controller. I've had poor luck with multiple Goal Zero products. Their panels seem to be good but they under-rate the diodes and other components in their controllers to try and make them smaller. and more portable It sounds like you're planning to panel mount this setup into a more permanent solution so why not get a better controller for about the same money.

I bought an e-cheapo solar controller off amazon to tinker with and it tends to over-charge. I need to ditch it and take my own advice and get one with some better power monitoring features and displays for diagnostics.

 

[mrblah]

I would ditch the lead battery and go with a agm deep cycle battery mainly for 2 reasons:

1. your lead acid battery can leak over time and if you accidently knock it over you will have a mess on your hands. AGM's don't have that problem.
2. lead acid batteries don't like to be discharged completely (i.e. you will have a completely unjumpable, dead battery). Whereas, an AGM deep cycle can be discharged completely (although you will negatively affect the overall life of it, but the key is you can do it if you had to in an emergency).

Honestly, what I did was, I left my lead acid battery in the car, and will run it until it needs replacement, and then I bought a group 31 deep cycle AGM for my battery box. You can also use your battery box to jump your lead acid battery if you need to.

My battery box has already paid for itself, during power outages (mainly to keep me entertained).

You can build a decent battery box for cheap, just search for trawler battery box for cheap, basically what people use in their boats.

I stayed away from goal zero products too...you are paying a lot for the name and absolutely no upgradeability. I ended up going with a battery box b/c I want to be able to upgrade to LiPo one day when it becomes affordable.

 

[jayhat]

I'd look elsewhere for a different charge controller. I've had poor luck with multiple Goal Zero products. Their panels seem to be good but they under-rate the diodes and other components in their controllers to try and make them smaller. and more portable It sounds like you're planning to panel mount this setup into a more permanent solution so why not get a better controller for about the same money.

I bought an e-cheapo solar controller off amazon to tinker with and it tends to over-charge. I need to ditch it and take my own advice and get one with some better power monitoring features and displays for diagnostics.

Thanks for the advice. I have several of their lanterns that I’ve hooked to the yeti 150 and like them so far. I’ve actually not used the panel at all since I bought it on sale a few month ago. I like the stuff so far. I’ll go through some reviews for that charge controller.

 

[jayhat]

I would ditch the lead battery and go with a agm deep cycle battery mainly for 2 reasons:

1. your lead acid battery can leak over time and if you accidently knock it over you will have a mess on your hands. AGM's don't have that problem.
2. lead acid batteries don't like to be discharged completely (i.e. you will have a completely unjumpable, dead battery). Whereas, an AGM deep cycle can be discharged completely (although you will negatively affect the overall life of it, but the key is you can do it if you had to in an emergency).

Honestly, what I did was, I left my lead acid battery in the car, and will run it until it needs replacement, and then I bought a group 31 deep cycle AGM for my battery box. You can also use your battery box to jump your lead acid battery if you need to.

My battery box has already paid for itself, during power outages (mainly to keep me entertained).

You can build a decent battery box for cheap, just search for trawler battery box for cheap, basically what people use in their boats.

I stayed away from goal zero products too...you are paying a lot for the name and absolutely no upgradeability. I ended up going with a battery box b/c I want to be able to upgrade to LiPo one day when it becomes affordable.

Thanks but the only GZ product I’m talking about buying is a charge controller which is not something I will upgrade or need to change. I already own a yeti 150 and a boulder 100 panel. I wanted the GZ controller for the ease of connecting the bolder panel to it.

Maybe I’ll look for another battery. Probably look for a sealed one.

 

[e60ral]

If you are getting a second battery, why not just get a true deep cycle battery and keep your stock battery for starting?


that GZ charge controller looks like it only goes up to 14V, make sure that is within spec for whatever battery you use. You can use any controller you want, you can even buy little MC4 adapters for the GZ panels if you don't want to make your own

 

[jayhat]

If you are getting a second battery, why not just get a true deep cycle battery and keep your stock battery for starting?


that GZ charge controller looks like it only goes up to 14V, make sure that is within spec for whatever battery you use. You can use any controller you want, you can even buy little MC4 adapters for the GZ panels if you don't want to make your own

Well I was wanting to upgrade the truck battery because of some additional lighting. I've also been wanting to build a power box. So I was just thinking of a way to use the stock battery to help accomplish that. Guess it's really just not meant to be. I'll probably just eventually end up buying 2 batteries and the power box accessories.

 

[jayhat]

Since everyone seems to not be a big fan of the GZ charge controller, can you recommend a better one?

I'd like something that's easily moved so I can take my panel with me camping to top up my truck battery and I can easily clip onto the power box battery when I want to solar charge that. Most of the solutions on amazon seem to be wall mounted and would not work well/be clunky to try and move them around, use in a vehicle, etc.

Edit: found this one. looks pretty portable and goes up to 14.2 volts. Would this work better? ANy thoughts on the brand?
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660263_200660263

 

[zashai]

Hi jayhat

i have the same setup for the last 8 month , works very good for me .


MK3 Micro blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version)
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/143...-version-2013/

Spacer for Group 34 batteries
http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/spa...p-34-batteries

Odyssey Batteries Extreme Series, Group 34R
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Electric...ODY34R-PC1500T

Just for peace of mind, I will probably get a CTEK 7002 and connect it to the battery every 2-3 weeks to ensure it's being properly charged. This will also integrate into the power box I have speced out below.

CTEK 7002
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y...S8RH18VZ&psc=0

no solar or second battery.

 

[jayhat]

Hi jayhat

i have the same setup for the last 8 month , works very good for me .


MK3 Micro blade 7.5A (Electronic fuse version)
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/143...-version-2013/

Spacer for Group 34 batteries
http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/spa...p-34-batteries

Odyssey Batteries Extreme Series, Group 34R
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Electric...ODY34R-PC1500T

Just for peace of mind, I will probably get a CTEK 7002 and connect it to the battery every 2-3 weeks to ensure it's being properly charged. This will also integrate into the power box I have speced out below.

CTEK 7002
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FRLO9Y...S8RH18VZ&psc=0

no solar or second battery.

Sweet thanks for letting me know!