V6 towing boats

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cangler

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I'm obsessing over this subject, so please work with me here. I eventually would like to get a fiberglass bass boat (would guess gross trailer weight somewhere 3000 - 4000 lbs) and my 2008 V6 Sport did not come with any hitches. The last thing I want to do is shorten the life of my precious 4Runner by pulling a boat. I would only pull the boat within Texas, flat land/highways. Okay so with that said... I had this in mind and I want to be sure this would work just fine for my application. I was going to get this Hidden Hitch Class III, with this Ball Mount, and this 2" Hitch Ball... so those three items should cover the basics of what I would need for hookup right? I should mention that I would want to get a trailer with brakes (single axle or tandem, not sure yet), so that round socket that is already under my bumper should connect to the trailer for the brakes, lights and turn signals right? I don't know if the boat trailer would come with the right plug to fit my socket or if I would have to get an adapter of some sort. Last thing I want to talk about is transmission coolers, now I don't know if my 2008 Sport already has one or not, haven't looked close enough. But, would adding one like this Derale Transmission Coolers be necessary or beneficial? Like I said before, I really rather put the least amount of stress on the 4R. I never towed before so this is a bit daunting. Thanks for any advice.
 
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i dont see why that set up will not work. i have a v6 as well and i tow with it, just keep it in "4" and out of "Drive" its way easier on the transmission. look at the B&M Supercoolers, ive heard those are the best coolers for the money
 
Yup, you should be good with those three things. You may have to buy an adapter for the trailer lights but that 4 pin is a pretty common connector to be used.

As far as the transmission cooler - it certainly wouldn't hurt. I don't think you'd need it as much here in Texas since as you said it's pretty flat around here. But it's a small price to pay for the piece of mind - I'd probably get one if I towed on a regular basis.
 
Be sure to double-check total weight of boat + trailer

Yep, the setup you describe will work for a recommended total weight of 4,000 lbs (so you should be ok). The max you can tow with your V6 is 5,000 lbs, but it is never advisable to tow up to the max. The general rule of thumb is to limit your tow weight to 80% of capacity or else your boat will be towing you.

I would only add that you not guess but instead double-check the total weight of your rig: trailer, spare tire, boat, motor, fuel, batteries, electronics (including trolling motor), gear, etc just to be on the safe side.

As 4loco mentioned, it is best to keep your transmission in "4" and out of overdrive. This will actually help keep it cooler. You should not need an additional transmission cooler as the higher rpms will keep the transmission fluid pumping efficiently through the lines already in place in the bottom of the radiator. Your gas mileage will suffer by 1 or 2 mpg, but the price of gas is still much cheaper than the cost to replace the tranny.

You can buy a flat 5-pin to round 6-pin adapter reasonably priced at Wal-Mart.

Finally, and you no doubt already know this, you will need to follow the severe service maintenance schedule for your 4Runner (the items under "If you tow...").

Hope this helps.
 
You are going to have to buy a monster Bass boat to get to 3ooolbs. According to Ranger's website (I think their the heaviest of bass boats) all of their models range from 1300 to 1900lbs for the boat. Even if the trailer adds 1000lbs, your V6 should have no problem towing any of them.
 
As others have said, you should be good to go. I tow a 1600lb boat with my V6 stock, no problem. Doesn't miss a beat even going over 12,000ft passes.
 
If you don't have the towing package then the tranny cooler is part of the radiator. I recommend getting a separate tranny cooler if you going to do any towing over 1000lbs.
 
It seems the gross weight... hull,motor,gear,gas/fluids,trailer, basically it all loaded down starts to weight a lot even with just a 18 to 19 ft glass boat. Some of the manufactures state the trailer GVWR which I thought was the completely loaded estimated package weight. I would defiantly like to stay under 3900 lbs total, closer to 3500 lbs would be preferred. For example, this Ranger Z118 says 3725 Trailer GVWR (lbs.), but as stated above Rangers seem to be heavier than most. I would like to know how they're getting that number though, and if that's completely loaded.
 
I may be completely wrong on this, but the GVWR rating for that trailer is the maximum weight for the trailer and boat combined. NOT what the Ranger Z118 boat plus trailer actually weighs. If it were the actual weight it would mean the trailer, gear, and fuel weigh ~2200lbs which is impossible.
 
By the way, If you are considering a Ranger, I can vouch for their quality. My Dad has had three of them over the last 30 years and they have all been exceptional boats.

:offtopic:
 
I'm in the same "boat" as the OP. What is the recommended trans cooler for an easy and clean install? OEM or aftermarket? How difficult is the install? Any write ups?
 
Yep, the setup you describe will work for a recommended total weight of 4,000 lbs (so you should be ok). The max you can tow with your V6 is 5,000 lbs, but it is never advisable to tow up to the max. The general rule of thumb is to limit your tow weight to 80% of capacity or else your boat will be towing you.

I would only add that you not guess but instead double-check the total weight of your rig: trailer, spare tire, boat, motor, fuel, batteries, electronics (including trolling motor), gear, etc just to be on the safe side.

As 4loco mentioned, it is best to keep your transmission in "4" and out of overdrive. This will actually help keep it cooler. You should not need an additional transmission cooler as the higher rpms will keep the transmission fluid pumping efficiently through the lines already in place in the bottom of the radiator. Your gas mileage will suffer by 1 or 2 mpg, but the price of gas is still much cheaper than the cost to replace the tranny.

You can buy a flat 5-pin to round 6-pin adapter reasonably priced at Wal-Mart.

Finally, and you no doubt already know this, you will need to follow the severe service maintenance schedule for your 4Runner (the items under "If you tow...").

Hope this helps.

Actually, with that hitch, he can tow up to its rating of 6000 lbs. The factory v6 hitch is mounted to the crossmember, which limits him to 5500 lbs. This hitch mounts directly to the frame. If you were to add the factory v8 hitch to the v6, according to the manual you can tow up to 6400 lbs. Its been debated and beaten to death on here.
 
If you are going to get a boat trailer with brakes, it depends on the type of braking system as to which type of connector you will need. Those that are mentioning the 4 pin straight connector may not realize that this type is only for lighting (brake, running, and directional), it does not handle the braking system of the tralier. There are two types of trailer braking systems. One is a surge system, which is built into the trailer tongue and works by activating the trailer brakes when the inertia of the trailer pushes against the tow vehicle when you apply the tow vehicle brakes. The other type uses a brake controller, which is mounted on the tow vehicle (usually under the dash somewhere), and gets a signal from the tow vehicles brake system when you apply its brakes. This controller sends a modulated signal to the trailers electric brakes to apply them. This type of system usually uses the 7 pin round connector like the one you appear to already have on your ride.

So, you need to find out which type of braking system your trailer is going to have before you know what type of connector you will need.
 
If you are going to get a boat trailer with brakes, it depends on the type of braking system as to which type of connector you will need. Those that are mentioning the 4 pin straight connector may not realize that this type is only for lighting (brake, running, and directional), it does not handle the braking system of the tralier. There are two types of trailer braking systems. One is a surge system, which is built into the trailer tongue and works by activating the trailer brakes when the inertia of the trailer pushes against the tow vehicle when you apply the tow vehicle brakes. The other type uses a brake controller, which is mounted on the tow vehicle (usually under the dash somewhere), and gets a signal from the tow vehicles brake system when you apply its brakes. This controller sends a modulated signal to the trailers electric brakes to apply them. This type of system usually uses the 7 pin round connector like the one you appear to already have on your ride.

So, you need to find out which type of braking system your trailer is going to have before you know what type of connector you will need.

Good info Techwrench...which of these braking systems are better?
 
Good info Techwrench...which of these braking systems are better?

Each has their place, but I prefer the electric braking system with the controller on the tow vehicle. IMHO, you have the ability to better control the amount of trailer braking by adjustments to the controller, depending on the conditions under which you are towing. As with any automotive system, you will need to maintain it to keep it working properly. And it helps to fully understand how the system and controller works, so you can fine tune it to your particular needs.
 
All very interesting guys, thanks for helping.

What transmission coolers should I consider? What brands are good? Does that Derale cooler linked in the original post look to a good choice? I'm not sure if it's something I could install myself or not.
 
I was doing some research and it looks the B&M supercoolers seem to be a popular choice as stated in the first reply. I guess the 70268 would be a fine choice. I'm just not sure if it includes everything I would need for the installation on the 4R. That hose included doesn't seem long enough.
 
I guess I am going to resurrect this old thread since I don't have privileges to start a new one yet. I'm trying to decide between a 2016 Tacoma double cab TRD Sport and a used 2015 t4r. I will be towing a boat with combined towing weight of up to 4000 lbs (it will probably be less) and a camping load in the truck plus 2 adults for over 890 miles 2x year (mostly flat but a couple steep grades) is my peak demand.

Tacoma can handle this with a V6 easily with decent gas mileage. What about the tr4 with a v6. some posts say they only get about 10 mpg with the t4r while towing. What gives it should do better than that towing 4000 lbs.

sounds like the way to go with the t4r is a factory hitch with an after market B&M tranny cooler. since they do not have a real tow package on the tr4.

Thanks
 

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